Well, I finally found out that the cause to the "drop" at idle is due to the Valve Stem Seals...the car is burning oil sometimes and apparently this is the cause; this is what a mechanic said that I brought it to when I had them perform flushes on the throttle body and the fuel injection system.

I'm looking at doing this myself...a mechanic said it would cost $1200, and I'm certain I can get the job done for a ton less. I'm planning to start it in about a week, but I need to gather information on doing the job.

I was wondering if anyone had any advice for this, also as to what tools I'll need, or any specific procedures. I know I'm going to need a tool to compress the valve springs, but I don't know if there is anything else "special" for doing the job. Also, if there are any other recommendations for replacing stuff while it is apart, please suggest. I would like any/all information possible anyone has on doing this.

I have a Chilton manual, but I can't find instructions for replacing the valve stem seals; are there any resources out there that have instructions for doing this?

Thank you very much. Any advice/information/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Wish me luck; I'll let you know when I start the work.

 

i sugest this to everyone www.helminc.com they make the dealer service manual for your car. Costs about 90 bucks and is the best investment you could ever make.

sorry cant be of much help with your problem tho

 

Would the "Camaro Shop Manual" (from Helm Inc.) be sufficient and contain the instructions for performing the job?

I've been trying to do some research and also found out that you need an air compressor to do the job? Apparently it holds the valves closed when taking off the springs?

Any info greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

 

Find a write up on valve spring replacement on the internet; valve seals are the same task, except you replace the seals instead of the valves. Hmmm, long as you are in there, might as well do the springs. Get weak with high miles, can float the valves > 4,500 rpm. But I'm not sure I'm buying valve seals causing rpm to drop. Does it smoke on startup, then go away when running? That is the classic dead seal symptom.

Tip: smack the retainers lightly with a hammer & socket. Socket should be big enough to fit over the keepers. Keepers tend to get stuck to retainers, this unsticks them so they seperate when you compress spring.

Tip 2: I bought a complete set of factory repair manuals for my 98 off ebay ~ 35 bucks. Contains massive amounts of info. I've heard the Helm manuals are the same, just offered to the public.

Tip 3: stock seals are little rings that fit around 2nd groove on valve stem. The umbrella type you can buy at parts store are easier to install (slip right over stem) and the red/orange ones are more resistant to heat.

Tip 4: don't install keepers in 2nd groove! I've seen doofususess do that and cause damage when retainer ends up too low on valve and hits top of valve guide. Taking stuff apart is easy, putting it back together right is the trick. Pay attention!

edit: oh yeah, no need for an air compressor. Just remove the rockers on a cylinder, fill the cylinder (piston should be a little down the bore to allow adequate rope) with thin rope thru spark plug hole, turn engine over by hand till rope stops piston, r & r springs, seals, reverse proccedure, adjust valves, move on to next cylinder.

I did this on my 71 in the parking lot of the barracks back when I was in the Corps.

Safer to use rope. Valves can fall in using compressor method if inexperienced.

 

Dealing with head components is probably the most difficult set of procedures to do with an engine. If you have no experience with this kind of thing, I would highly discourage attempting it. I would recommend upgrading with fully assembled heads at this time, or just leave it the way it is and get used to it. It wont kill your engine, just fuel economy.

 

Choosing components on an application using a high lift cam where knowledge of retainer to guide clearances, adequate spring travel to avoid coil bind, installed height/pressures, rocker/valve geometry, etc, requires someone who know what they are doing, but it's not the end of the world on a stock/near stock apllication.

Like I said, I've done this in a parking lot with just a basic set of tools. Original engine in my 71 broke a spring, so I figured I'd change them all. Only special tool I needed was a spring compressor. Bought the simple lever type at the parts store. Took an afternoon. Next day I hopped in my RS and drove from SoCal to Texas.

 

Theres just a lot that can go wrong, especially if you are inexperienced. If he wants to risk it, then thats fine.

 

Where's a good place to get rope for this? What type should be used?

 

Walmart or any home improvment store. I think even clothes line should work. It just has to be thin and flexible.

 

It smokes on startup, and then will smoke intermittenly when driving around.

Still the valve stem seals, or is it something else?

 

1200 bucks for a valve seal job? Are you joking? Like rob said you could by a NICE pair of heads for that much! Valve seals are like $30.. for the GOOD ones! All you have to do is remove the valve covers and take off the springs (I think) and your good to go. Like other's are saying though, if you dont know what your doing try and find somebody that can help you

 

Ya, it sounds like your valve seals. When mine where shot it would smoke during startup, and if just sat and idled w/out revving it for a prolonged ammount of time. Occasionaly when I shift too, if I recall correctly

 

Well, my friend is going to help me, and in the spring, we had to replace a head gasket and some other various things on a 3.3L Chrysler Concorde. I know this engine is bigger and whatnot, but it's not like its the absolute first time we've worked on a car. I think we can do it, I would just like to get a procedure laid out just so things can go smoother. As a matter of fact, I just ordered a Chevrolet Camaro Service Manual, hopefully that will have more insight. As I thought too, I believe you just remove the springs off of the valvles and can replace the seals -- I just need to research the technicalities.