Trouble Codes
Trouble Codes
where can i go to decode these codes...i got a 33 and a 36...i think the 33 is a map sensor, but i'm not sure...does anybody know off the top of their head what these codes are, and if not where can i find out....i also got a 12, but i think that just means its running normal or something, thats what a buddy of mine told me...
12 is normal, and means the ECM is running properly.
33 is for your Mass Air Flow sensor.
36 is for your Mass Air Flow sensor burnoff circuit.
Check your MAF sensor for contamination and MAF burnoff relay for proper operation.
33 is for your Mass Air Flow sensor.
36 is for your Mass Air Flow sensor burnoff circuit.
Check your MAF sensor for contamination and MAF burnoff relay for proper operation.
Noooo... There is nothing wrong with the ignition. Code 33 is for a high voltage condition at the MAF, and code 36 is a MAF burnoff circuit failure.That above link is crap. Although most of GMs DTCs are generic, they do have certain codes that are vehicle/engine specific - both of these being vehicle specific.
Need diagnostic help? Here's a GOOD link:
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...de+maf+trouble
Originally posted by Marc 85Z28
That above link is crap. Although most of GMs DTCs are generic, they do have certain codes that are vehicle/engine specific - both of these being vehicle specific.
That above link is crap. Although most of GMs DTCs are generic, they do have certain codes that are vehicle/engine specific - both of these being vehicle specific.
As a professional mechanic I can tell you that Chilton's information is pretty worthless. In fact, it's almost as worthless as Hayne's information. I'd take a good voltmeter over either one of them any day.
Originally posted by krazzycowgirl
But for those who cant afford a Pro Mechanic they work in a pinch. They are better then someone who dont know what they are doing & messing up your car.
But for those who cant afford a Pro Mechanic they work in a pinch. They are better then someone who dont know what they are doing & messing up your car.
Nowadays, Chiltons is crap. ALLDATA is a much better source.
klumb15: Did you follow my link? The MAF burnoff relay is notorious for sticking. 90% of the time a replacement is in order. As far as the MAF, carefully cleaning it out with carb cleaner sometimes does the trick. Make sure its dry before plugging back in.
Last edited by Marc 85Z28; Apr 30, 2004 at 12:14 PM.
Originally posted by klumb15
alright......do you have a ballpark figure on the cost of a MAP burnoff relay and a MAP sensor? and thanks for the help marc, all your knowledge is greatly appreciated
alright......do you have a ballpark figure on the cost of a MAP burnoff relay and a MAP sensor? and thanks for the help marc, all your knowledge is greatly appreciated
The relay you can pick up just about any parts store, and its not expensive. Probably less than $10.
The MAF however is bit more. Probably several hundred dollars. I still say you should attempt to clean it first, and here's why:
When the MAF burnoff relay fails, so does it's circuit function. The burnoff relay does just what it implies, it provides a voltage source to the MAF element after shutoff, to "burnoff" any accumulated debris on the the sensor that could cause a malfunction.
Clean it first. If that does not fix it, you'd be best advised to either:
a) find a friend with a TPI car and do a quick swap, or
b) get a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) and check the MAF sensor output yourself. Its actually pretty easy.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
armedtrigger
LT1 Based Engine Tech
10
Feb 24, 2015 08:30 PM



