top dead center...
hey guys, hope all is well,
i recently put in a new 350 i got from a friend. i put the distributor in and and trying to figure out where and how to find top dead center. i know cylinder 1 must be to the top but it could potentially be 180 degrees out correct? i did manage to find the timing line on the harmonic balancer on the crank but have no idea where it needs to line up to? i dont see a notch or anything else. i read on another thread that they buy a bolt on accessory and then it gives them a range of 0 - 10 im not sure where im going with this. is there any other way for me to find top dead center before droping in the distributor? or do i need to pull off the cover to the timing chain to do this? sorry if this sounds dumb
thanks for the help in advance
Douglas
i recently put in a new 350 i got from a friend. i put the distributor in and and trying to figure out where and how to find top dead center. i know cylinder 1 must be to the top but it could potentially be 180 degrees out correct? i did manage to find the timing line on the harmonic balancer on the crank but have no idea where it needs to line up to? i dont see a notch or anything else. i read on another thread that they buy a bolt on accessory and then it gives them a range of 0 - 10 im not sure where im going with this. is there any other way for me to find top dead center before droping in the distributor? or do i need to pull off the cover to the timing chain to do this? sorry if this sounds dumb
thanks for the help in advance
Douglas
The only true way to locate TDC is with a piston stop and a degree wheel. This allows you to set an adjustable timing pointer or know how far out the factory pointer is.
There will be a line on the balancer for TDC #1 and #6. There's needs to be a degree indicator normally attached to the timing cover. The large notch is zero. Each point is 2*.
When dropping in a distributor, you don't really want to be at TDC but have the timing close to the base timing. If your base timing is 8* BTDC, you rotate the balancer so that it point to the 8* mark. Then with the cap and rotor off, you drop the distributor in. Lining where the rotor will point to the #1 plug wire, you watch the magnetic pickup pointers and line them up. Clamp down the distributor so it doesn't turn. The timing is now set close enough that the engine should fire up. Reinstall the cap and rotor.
There will be a line on the balancer for TDC #1 and #6. There's needs to be a degree indicator normally attached to the timing cover. The large notch is zero. Each point is 2*.
When dropping in a distributor, you don't really want to be at TDC but have the timing close to the base timing. If your base timing is 8* BTDC, you rotate the balancer so that it point to the 8* mark. Then with the cap and rotor off, you drop the distributor in. Lining where the rotor will point to the #1 plug wire, you watch the magnetic pickup pointers and line them up. Clamp down the distributor so it doesn't turn. The timing is now set close enough that the engine should fire up. Reinstall the cap and rotor.
Quick way to find #1 tdc for a distributor drop in: remove plug #1. put your thumb over plug hole. have your buddy give the starter short bumps with the key. when you feel pressure build, tell bud to take key out of switch and put it on dash. this will get you close, don't go too far, stop as soon as you feel any pressure. manually spin engine till balancer mark aligns with 8* mark. Pop distributor in with rotor pointed at #1 wire on cap.
if it doesn't want to drop all the way in, just let it sit there while you bump the starter again. you won't lose timing as the gear will still be engaged, it just allows the oil pump drive rod tang to align. it will drop down all the way on it's own when it does.
if it doesn't want to drop all the way in, just let it sit there while you bump the starter again. you won't lose timing as the gear will still be engaged, it just allows the oil pump drive rod tang to align. it will drop down all the way on it's own when it does.
or...
Take the #1 plug out, get a wrench and turn the engine over manually, find the compression stroke with thumb over spark plug hole, once you find compression stroke, stick a McDonald's straw (reason being is it's a fat straw and can be squished easier) into plug hole and keep turning engine over until you feel the most resistence on the straw. Make sure the straw is in deep enough to where it gets smashed between the piston and quench area of the cylinder head. Works like a charm.
Take the #1 plug out, get a wrench and turn the engine over manually, find the compression stroke with thumb over spark plug hole, once you find compression stroke, stick a McDonald's straw (reason being is it's a fat straw and can be squished easier) into plug hole and keep turning engine over until you feel the most resistence on the straw. Make sure the straw is in deep enough to where it gets smashed between the piston and quench area of the cylinder head. Works like a charm.
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