So Heres the story..

Clutch has been slipping in my 86 iroc for a couple of weeks now. I have been babying it because its my only driver. Saturday while driving home from work, my clutch just let go...no grip in any gear.... Thankfully i asked my buddy to follow me home that day because i knew that the clutch was going soon... Unflortunately the clutch went at the worst time... On a busy uphill road. My buddy had to push me to a safe place where we then put it on a trailer and towed it back to my house. I've been working on the car using all the time i have free to work on it.


Alright.. Well i pretty much have the tranny out i'm waiting for my buddy to come over and help me lift the trany out. I was wondering what is the easiest way to remove the pilot bearing? I dont currently have a tool but i can barrow one from a friend of mine. Is there any problems that i might run into by removing this tranny? So far i have the torque arm, driveshaft, shifter, console, and cross member partially removed... And should i get the Flywheel resurfaced? does it depend on how bad the clutch was burnt up? Do I need to tilt the engine inorder to pull out the tranny easier? Help is really appreiciated.

Thanks

 

ya i would get the flywheel resurfaced cuz if not it probly has hot spots and when you take off slow or fast your car will vibrate a whole lot and it will grip better to so i would

 

go to autozone
ask them if you can rent a blind hole puller
the renting is free you get your money back when you return the tool
a blind hole puller from autozone will fit inside the old pilot bushing, then when you tighten it, it expands and grips the bushin really good, then you use a slide hammer (which you can also rent for free at autozone) and it pops right out

theres also the dowel and grease trick, but this is alot easier and in the end its free.

you should always get the flywheel resurfaced anyway, and especially if you were driving on a slipping clutch

so yea, remove drivshaft (don't forget to catch the oil that leaks out)
remove cross member (let the tranny drop down so you can drain more fluid, and reach the top bolts)

DISCONNECT YOUR CLUTCH PEDAL FROM THE ROD
before you disconnect the slave cylinder
you dont want the slave cylinder to accidentally blow, then you have to buy the whole master/slave assembly, lots of money, not easy to put in

disconnect the speedometer cable, the reverse light switch
remove the starter

remove the 6 bolts that hold the tranny to the engine (use extensions and swivel sockets) and then pry the sucker off


have fun

 

i pulled the tranny from the bell housing just because it was easier to pull the bell housing of by its self. Everything is out now, flywheel is getting resurfaced... new clutch is on its way. Thanks for the help.

 

thats what i did

 

Same method here, only I used a cut up bar of soap so that grease wouldnt go flying everywhere.

 

Its wierd because my pilot just slid out just using my fingers... i havent installed the new one yet o see if that one is tight. but i'll find out tomorrow. the clutch came on thursday and i plan on getting the car back on the road tomorrow. be a lot of work putting that **** back together but its gonna be worth it.

 

Driving in pieces of wadded up wet newspaper works well for the pilot bearing - less messy

 

Amazing, much better than getting pulled onto a trailer. I ended up putting a Spec Stage 1 clutch in my car. I didnt expect much more performance then i had with th e stock clutch but its almost night and day. The spec pressure plate has amazing clamping power on the friction disk. Runs and drives good. Not a single problem with the removal or instalation of the new clutch. this isnt the first clutch i've done myself, but the first clutch on a chevy...