I have a factory 5spd 87 camaro Iroc and I am installing a T56 out of a 96 camaro (which I have a complete donor car). What is involved in this swap? Will the driveshaft out of the 96 work without shortening? Do I have to swap in the 96 pedals or just the master/ slave cylinders? Any other help greatly appreciated

 

Keep your stock pedals, the clutch is just gonna ride a little higher. You can use the flywheel, clutch, hydros, driveshaft, and shifter out of the '96 car. You can use your original shift plate. Really it's a direct bolt-in, with the exceptions of a crossmember (see http://www.spohn.net) and the speedo hookup. You'll also have to extend the hole in the trans tunnel about 2" toward the rear of the car.

It's a pretty easy swap, and can be done in a weekend without too much trouble.

 

Look at my tech pages: Pages 2/3

www.cardomain.com/id/sixspeedinstall

Not too involved at all. If you've got a complete donor car, you're good to go.

-Corey

 

GreatJ and Rippin92RS

I've got a question regarding one aspect of this swap. The new hydraulics. I'm building an 89 IROC road race car and I've upgraded the hydraulics to the LT1 version so that I'll have a metal braided line next to the headers instead of the plastic line I did have. Where I've hit a snag is the clutch rod that attaches to the clutch pedal. The pedals are stock 89 IROC and when I removed the old rod it had a three pronged plastic piece that apparently kept the rod onto the pedal. The rod that came with the LT1 setup has what appears to be a rubber bushing in place of the three pronged retainer. How does it stay on the clutch pedal peg? Am I missing a piece? I looked at the service manual for my 02 Z28 since the clutch rod setup appears to be the same as the LT1 version and it shows some type of cap that intsalls on the clutch pedal. Any comments/advice?

 

If I remember correctly, the clutch cylinder connects to the pedal the same way for an LT1 car and a 3rd Gen. I don't have any type of "cap" connecting mine. There is, however, a little play in the pedal, it's not connected exactly how it should be but it works just fine. I wish I had a smaller digi cam, I could try to get you some pictures from back there.

-Corey

 

The bushing is slightly different from 3rd to 4th gen. I made my 3rd gen bushing fit the 4th gen rod (required a small amount of filing IIRC) so that it would clip on in the 3rd gen fashion.

You could also use an E-clip in the groove at the end of the 3rd gen pedal stud to hold the 4th gen rod on, but you may have to file/remove the bushing for that to work.

If you'd rather not have to file anything, you can take the hydros back out and simply put the LT1 line/slave on the 3rd gen master cylinder. There is a roll pin that holds the line fitting into the end of the cylinder....tap it out and the line will come free. Make sure you don't double up or omit the O-ring...that'll make for a nasty leak. If you do this you'll have to bleed the hydros. FWIW the slaves are also interchangable (that's if you want to keep the bleeder valve.....the LT1 slave doesn't have one.)

 

Thank you both for the info. Hopefully I'll get a chance to work on the car tonight. I've got some spare e clips in the basement so I'll give that a shot first. I'll let you know if it works.