T-56 Swap question.
T-56 Swap question.
ive got a t56 out of a 94z..
question is i installed the pedals, and the clutch master cyl. now the clutch master cyl is hooked up to the slave cyl, the slave cyl is not hooked up.. now when i tried to compress the pedal, i got nothing. maybe a little more then a half inch of movement. is this system not suppsed to compress until the whole tranny and everything is hooked up or what?
also i would like to find the assebly of a t56. complete. any other ideas rather then say a haynes manual?
thanks
question is i installed the pedals, and the clutch master cyl. now the clutch master cyl is hooked up to the slave cyl, the slave cyl is not hooked up.. now when i tried to compress the pedal, i got nothing. maybe a little more then a half inch of movement. is this system not suppsed to compress until the whole tranny and everything is hooked up or what?
also i would like to find the assebly of a t56. complete. any other ideas rather then say a haynes manual?
thanks
Re: T-56 Swap question.
ok well am i wording this wrong or what? 14times looked at and no one can think of anything?
well im still hunting stuff down so im not worried about it. and if it doesnt work. oh well ill just replace it.
well im still hunting stuff down so im not worried about it. and if it doesnt work. oh well ill just replace it.
Re: T-56 Swap question.
14 people who don't have T56's looked at it. Patience, young grasshopper.....
Don't try to push the pedal with the slave cylinder unbolted. It's a good way to blow the slave up. Since the slave is spring-loaded and extends itself fully when you unbolt it, it has no room to extend when you press the pedal so the pressure just builds up until something breaks. When you get the trans in and the slave bolted up, then you can press the pedal to your heart's content without risking the hydros.
If you want a .pdf copy of the GM T56 service manual shoot me an email. I have it and am willing to share. It's complete with blowup diagrams, troubleshooting procedures, shimming and torque specs, the works.
Don't try to push the pedal with the slave cylinder unbolted. It's a good way to blow the slave up. Since the slave is spring-loaded and extends itself fully when you unbolt it, it has no room to extend when you press the pedal so the pressure just builds up until something breaks. When you get the trans in and the slave bolted up, then you can press the pedal to your heart's content without risking the hydros.
If you want a .pdf copy of the GM T56 service manual shoot me an email. I have it and am willing to share. It's complete with blowup diagrams, troubleshooting procedures, shimming and torque specs, the works.
Re: T-56 Swap question.
thegreatj!
it would be great if you could send me some copys of stuff. thats exactly what im looking for!.
iansane...
yes i took the lines and bled it. im starting to think that was a no-no.
it would be great if you could send me some copys of stuff. thats exactly what im looking for!.
iansane...
yes i took the lines and bled it. im starting to think that was a no-no.
Re: T-56 Swap question.
Here is a good write up on the install.....good luck
http://www.skulte.com/T56.html
http://www.skulte.com/T56.html
Re: T-56 Swap question.
alright unfortunatly i bled the system to see if things would move. and yep they sure did.
now is this going to be a pain in the *** to re-fill or what!?
also i noticed that the rubber boot for the slave cyl is ripped. a whole about the size of a dime. now i know thats gonna be bad news. but how bad?
now is this going to be a pain in the *** to re-fill or what!?
also i noticed that the rubber boot for the slave cyl is ripped. a whole about the size of a dime. now i know thats gonna be bad news. but how bad?
Re: T-56 Swap question.
Hey, Ive been through this process before on my friends 92 rs. Your best bet is to find a COMPLETE setup out of a wrecked car. EVERTHING...pedels, master/slave (which you want from the same car, because there are 2 different types...depending if you have a 94-97 trans, or a 98-02 trans), trans, clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel...even if it has miles on it, its best to get it all in, find out it works, and then put in a centerforce or similar. Also, a tip i found out along the way is...try to find a brake master cylinder from a 5 speed 3rd gen. The tubing is different underneath, and it makes access to the slave and clutch master alot easier. Also...make sure...and this is a must...make sure the master/slave is bolted in perfect. If the plunger on the pedel and the cylinder dont match up, you are gonna rip through cluthes faster than rear tires. If you have any other questions on this, ask...ill do my best...as i said..ive been through this before...its a nightmare...but looks really cool when your dont...good luck
Re: T-56 Swap question.
First off, he already has the parts...so advice about what parts to buy is somewhat useless. Second, the 98-02 trans and clutch/hydraulics won't work with a regular SBC without SERIOUS modification...enough that it's not worth the trouble. Third, the 3rd gen T5 pedals (84+ I believe) will work just fine with the '93-'97 hydraulics, mine have been that way for about 5 years now. Clutch master-to-pedal rod alignment is indeed CRUCIAL.
The slave cyl. boot is more of a dust cover than anything else. It doesn't hold pressure or anything. Put some electrical tape on the hole if it bothers you. The official procedure for bleeding the '93-'97 hydros is to unbolt the slave, fill the reservoir, then pump the slave in and out by hand (DO NOT press the pedal while doing this.) As the fluid moves back and forth from the master to the slave it will carry the air bubbles with it and they will work their way to the top. Go gravity, go.
The slave cyl. boot is more of a dust cover than anything else. It doesn't hold pressure or anything. Put some electrical tape on the hole if it bothers you. The official procedure for bleeding the '93-'97 hydros is to unbolt the slave, fill the reservoir, then pump the slave in and out by hand (DO NOT press the pedal while doing this.) As the fluid moves back and forth from the master to the slave it will carry the air bubbles with it and they will work their way to the top. Go gravity, go.
Re: T-56 Swap question.
alright good info guys.
but i talked to a friend of a friend that works at a dealership. and im getting the complete hydraulic clutch assem for 106 bucks. so im gonna just go new.
ok you guys are saying its very important to line the clutch master cyl rod to the pedal perfect. well how can you mess this up? i drilled holes, and bolted the sucker on and the rod goes on perfect!. unless i did it half assed or what?
but i talked to a friend of a friend that works at a dealership. and im getting the complete hydraulic clutch assem for 106 bucks. so im gonna just go new.
ok you guys are saying its very important to line the clutch master cyl rod to the pedal perfect. well how can you mess this up? i drilled holes, and bolted the sucker on and the rod goes on perfect!. unless i did it half assed or what?
Re: T-56 Swap question.
It's all about the location of the holes. If the rod goes straight into the master cylinder, with little or no angle, then you're good to go. If the mounting holes are in the wrong places and the rod is angled, it will bend the first time you stab it to shift.


