Hey people, alright i have a 84 Z28 H.O, T-5 Stock clutch, i was raggin on it and i nailed 2nd gear, and went to take it outta 2nd and it wouldn't let me with clutch fully engaged, so i was stuck in 2nd, i got it out with a little push and so i started messing with the clutch pedel, and u can just move it so easy, so i am stuck in nutral, anyone have any input plz help me out here, if u need more details plz tell me, thx....

 

So, you don't feel any pressure on the clutch when you press it?
There is some adjustability but it's very limited.
You could've bent or cracked the clutch fork.
There should be a little "free-travel" at the pedal's highest position(1/2"to1 1/2")from the top and most bottom out within a 1/2"to 1/4" from the floor.
Did you check the fluid in the clutch's master cylinder?Are there any leaks around the bellhousing.
You can also bleed air from the line as brakes, tho it's usually gravity bled. (Bleeder just held open until clear fluid is seen.)

Give me more info, I'll try to help...

 

ok its the Clutch Slave Cylinder, the plastic parts broke where the bolts go it, so i guess i will replace that and see if it works from there, also any tips on replaceing the Clutch Slave Cylinder? and thx alot for the input 90rocz...

 

It's pretty much just remove and replace.
To bleed it just open the bleeder valve on the bellhousing and let it bleed itself, just don't let the resivoir run dry. You'll probably need a friend so one can pour fluid and the other under the car watching til there's no more air bubbles and close the valve.

 

alright cool is there any special way to get them things not to break again, also thx again for the input, can't wait to get the camaro on the road again.

 

I've never heard of problems with the flange on the slave cylinder, the plastic may have just been brittle from age...the only way I can think of to reinforce the flange would be to fab up a steel plate to go on the back of it, say 1/8" thick. It would take a little time and effort to get it right but it would make it quite a bit stronger I'd think.

To change it you'll need a small punch to knock out the roll pin that holds the hydro line on...I think it's a 1/8" pin. To put the pin back in you can just hold it straight and squeeze it in with some big channel-lock pliers. Make sure you have the seal on the line fitting when you put it back together, otherwise it'll spray everywhere and won't work. Shouldn't take more than an hour to change it.

 

yea i was wondering if there was a pin on there that held that together, i don't think i am gonna go witht the steel enforcer idea, only because i don't have the supplys and tools to do it, but good idea, also thx again for the input

 

Somtimes bleeding the thing with it hanging there is better than in place.