If you pull the pump and mounting bracket off the front of the engine, you will need to replace the top bolt of the two or you'll have an oil leak. This bolt hole goes completely through to where the fuel pump pushrod would go. I just found a short bolt and put a washer on it to fill the hole.

 

I just did mine tonight. I was getting this weird tapping noise, almost like a lifter tap. I noticed the belt was starting to look a little chewed up in the center rib area. I took the belt off and spun the Smog pump pulley. It went click-click-stop. Hmm.
So I removed the pulley (10mm bolts), removed the diverter valve (also 10mm bolts with an extension), and the torx bolts. Rotated the pump out, and down it went. I had to fish it over to the driver's side before it dropped out on the ground, though.
Started the car, and no more tap-tap-tap.
If there's a Pepboys around, they usually carry the Dayco belts. I also imagine you could use any 97" belt too.

 

If you can, get rid of all that smog crap it make the engine look a lot better, one less thing to break, and most important you'll be able to fit your arm under there to work on the engine easier.

You'll prable get a code (forget the number) after driving on the highway after a half hour to two hours. Something about the egr value not responding, imagine that. The check engine light will go off when you restart the car.

 

As far as I know, EGR and AIR are not related, so I think you're light is an indication of either a bad purge solenoid, and/or EGR valve. When my car did that same thing, it turned out to be the valve. I put vacuum on it, and it leaked down. Replaced valve, reset codes, and it has never returned.
*EDIT*
It could also be a tiny hole in the vacuum lines causing it.

 

See http://www.siclife.com/camaro.html and see photos, I completely removed ALL smog equipment. One thing you may want to do is cap off the tubes on top of your headers. I actually replaced the headers themselves with SLPs headers without AIR tubes. There are no codes that are thrown and it runs fine, when the car is running. This is an 86 Camaro as well. I'm not sure if this is necessary, but I kept the solenoids that attach to the air pump plugged into the wiring harness, I don't know if removing them throws a code.

 

Well I've been running the car for over a week now without the sensors plugged in...so far no codes