Yea man, it started on me once the LT1 cam went in....there is a vacuum line of some sort at the back of the intake near the distributor that is capped, the intake was leaking after the cam swap (so says my mechanic) my exhaust manifolds were glowing red so I took it there, they said there was a leak in the intake (no idea how my exhaust manifolds would be glowing red and steaming if I'm having an intake problem) but ever since they "fixed" that intake leak my car has done this at idle.

Basically, I did the cam swap, had TONS of problems stalling, I would start car, then it would stall out, in order to keep it going I had to hold the gas a little, then it would hold on it's own.

The reason it went into the shop was when my engine stopped reving above 2k and when i popped the hood the left side manifold was glowing red (at night) and was steaming. I'm told it's intake leak (they DID fix the stalling on start, I no longer have to hold the gas to keep it from stalling on start, well before it would stall INSTANTLY, so you basically had to hold the gas down while you turned the key, sotra like holding the gas down when your trying to start a carbed car that you flooded) Instead I have to hold the gas and keep the motor at about 1200 RPM until it holds on its own, if not it bounces from 400-1000 on its own, it will eventually stall if you don't hold it (it will give me a good 3-5 seconds before stalling as oppsed to just instantly stalling). After holding the idle for about 1-2 min it will even out on its own, slowly dropping from 1000 till it settles at 600 where it will idle like a watch ALL damn day.

Once that happens, the motor will rev to about 1500, the FIRST time you try to rev higher then 2k it will struggle. Then it will rev freely. So at this point the motor will idle perfectly and pull perfectly. You shut the motor down, restart it 10 seconds later and it will make me go through EVERYTHING I just stated above again.

Some days I will get up at 7am, and it will start PERFECTLY. No problems.....I drive somehwere, turn the engine off. Come back 20 minutes later, it gives me hell the next 3 starts. Then out of the blue is will start perfectly. I have no idea how to diagnose this problem because it isn't consistent. (By the way, I'm explaining it in so much detail in case someone wants to know EVERYTHING that is going on to figure out whats wrong) It's gotten warm and even in 80 degree heat it will still have problems 1 minute, then start perfectly the next. It has nothing to do with letting the engine sit for a while, it can not run for 6 hours, or you can run and stop, run and stop, the result is just a guess whether it will give me trouble or be perfect. about 5:1 ratio to it giving me the prestated trouble and it actually starting how it's supposed to.

BTW, I'm building a 350 that is going in by the end of the summer, I wasted 20 hours of my life doing that cam swap, if someone figures out a simple way to fix this I'll do it, but I'm not gonna do a major overhaul on a motor thats coming out in 2 months....just another reason why to go to carb.

 

My fan is on constantly, and the temp stays solid at the first marker...... Dunno if the speedo is messed up, I will unplug the fan and see if it rises. I also do not know what type of stat is in the car.......

Will

 

Stealth, did you get a recalibrated EPROM to take care of your cam? When I switched intakes and added headers, I had the EPROM redone by LPE. After that I changed heads and cam and it would die out at the stop signs till I switched torque converters. It would be OK, not good. After a few thousand miles I found out that the engine was shot so I got a 383 and with 30 pph injectors, it would flood so I got a new recalibrated EPROM and life was good.

 

I have a maf setup, so I don't think the cam should cause that much trouble, it should adjust....even if the cam is causing a problem, why is it only causing a problem some of the time.