When I bought my 87 iroc it didn't have the owner's manual so I was wondering if any of you guy's knew how to reset the comp. for the car. Please let me know thanks

 

Why do you need to reset it? If you have some codes you would like to clear you can unhook the positive battery terminal, and leave it uphooked for a few hours or overnight should do it.

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91 RS Camaro 5-speed black w/t-tops 305 TBI now TPI
MODS: SLP cold air intake w/K&N, air foil,Accel 19 LB injectors, March aluminum under drive pullies, Alburn pro posi, Aluminum drive shaft, Random Technology 3'' cat-back, 8.5mm MSD wires, 160 thermo, jet fan swich, Custom chip with 91 vette computer, SSBC slotted rotors, optima battery in the rear, BMR adjustable lower control arms and panhard rod, Kenny Brown strut tower brace, TB bypass, no egr, no air

 

Because I heard that sometimes it helps when you modify your car to reset the computer. I didn't really modify the car I descreened my MAF and it's running really ****ty I know I shouldn't have done this now but I already did it and i'm trying to fix it the best I can before my new MAF comes. Which probably won't be for another couple of weeks.

 

You don't need to remove power overnight just remove the ECM fuse for about 30 seconds will do just fine. How did you mess up the MAF by removing the screens, that usually doesn't do much unless you damaged the fine wire sensing element. If you didn't damage that and it isn't giving hard fault codes you are probably wasting your money. Anytime your ride isn't running right don't just throw parts at it. Not only is this expensive but it's an easy way to learn to hate EFI. Why do you think so many are trying to convert to carb from EFI, because some guys don't understand EFI and don't take the time to learn. Buy yourself an AutoX-Ray or a cheap laptop with a Diacom program and learn what all those sensors and controls do. You will be money ahead of the guys converting to carb not to mention better efficiency and drivability.
Oh plus you may even find yourself wanting to go deeper an learn to program your own EPROMs. JMO
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92BLKL98
'92 Black Z28 Hardtop w/Harwood 2" cowl ind. hood Modded 700R4, MSD
Ignition, March Underdrives, TPIS Fastpak, Ram air w/gutted filter box, SLP Prom, Flowmaster, & free mods, removed cats, Amsoil synthetic lubes, CE SFC's, Edelbrock STB,Spohn TA,Roadtech LCA's and Panhard Rod, Energy Susp., PST polygraphite bushings, KYB Shocks.

[This message has been edited by 92BLKL98 (edited August 02, 2002).]

 

Well when I took it into the mechanic they said it wasn't working right and that in the near future you should replace it. Also I've read a lot of things now about how descreening the MAF can severly screw up the car if you can't burn your own prom's. They said because you're adding to the amount of air running threw the MAF and the computer doesn't think that there would be that much air at those rpm's. But I'll tell you what it's doing. When I first start up the car it missfires big time and the car will stay at idling even if my foot is fully on the gas. It makes popping sounds and the car jerks forward and then slows down it's a real pain. After awhile of running it, like when I get into second it works perfectly fine. Then I stop at a stop light and it jerks a little bit again. Well tell me what you think. Thank you.

 

To reset OBD 1 like yours, just disconnect the positive bat cable for about five minutes. You car might run like crap until the ECM relearns the car. I believe a system like yours runs on "blocks" of info to operate the engine in certain senarios. Just drive normally and the ECM will learn on its own.
You can diagnose OBD 1 with a paper clip if you need to. Connect the A and B terminals of the ALDL connector under your steering wheel. Turn the ignition on and don't start the engine. The check engine light with flash trouble codes. Each code will flash 3 times before moving on. If you get 1 flash followed by 2 flashes, and nothing else, no codes are set. Get a Chiltons or Haynes manual to find out which terminals to short and to decode the findings.
Try giving your car a tune up. Check the condition and gap of your spark plugs. Above all, don't be afraid of the computer. Once you grasp the concept of it, they are the easy to work with.

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2000 Camaro Z28 Monterey Maroon Metallic, auto,leather, 323 posi, Monsoon w/CD, T-tops

 

ZZed- which part of chicago do you live? Im in Hoffman Estates, send me an e-mail so maybe we can go cruz around sometime. later
Bobby


BTW: removing your MAF screens is a good mod, you might have must hit one of the wirres in the sensor or something, i removed mine on both of my cars and never had any problems. I dont understand why yours would act this way. If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator then just ceep the screens off the maf and bump up the pressure. Later
Bob

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89' red iroc-z
386 stroker
Mini ram, 58mm tb
30#lbs,255 high flow fuel pump
slp cam, 1.6rr
edelbrock performer heads p+p 2.02 1.60
Hooker super comps, Mufflex 4' exhaust
Ford 9' 4.11 gears, detroit locker, 31 spline
Full suspension
B&M mega shifter,2800 stall
baer rear brakes,line lock
converted to speed density
Ed Wright dyno tuned


89'red Iroc-z 5.7 TPI
t-tops grey interior
free mods, exhaust
Lt-1 convertion in the works

 

You pull the fuse under the hood, or the battery cable, for a couple of seconds and it's reset. You can wait longer if you'd like but it won't get any more reset that it already has.




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SMaster