Quarantine

When people say build a stronger rear end,what exactly would that include?I got a 305 V8 5.0 Auto TPI and I am planning to throw a 383 in about 2 years (because it will take me that long to save for a engine,plus I gotta buy a better rear end).I want to build everything up now,so when I get the money,All I gotta do is throw the 383 in,and not worry about breaking something,I know some people who threw a bigger motor in without changing little things here and there, and BANG,they blew their motor up.Any help will do,thanks!

87DJP2001

All you need to have a "stronger rear end " is money. About $3000 should do it for a 12-bolt rear axle assembly.

Z28SORR

This will give you an idea of cost.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

Marc 85Z28

Don't forget things like the transmission. Spend your money there, first. The stock trans rebuilt by a reputable performance shop (not your local mom and pop trans shop, Aamco, etc) should be up to the task. Rebuilt trans with a quality torque converter? Figure $2500+ for the trans and converter.

The stock 10 bolt rear will hold the power you're looking to make, as long as it's in good working condition, does NOT have a 4.10 gearset, and is stuck behind an automatic transmission. The 10 bolt will take more abuse that people give it credit for. I've got one in each of my cars, both are capable of pulling the front tires

Quarantine

Ahhhh ok,thanks guys,you have made my day! Thanks!

redneckgames

I look at things alittle differently.

If you have another means of transportation, I would go engine first. Then fix others as they break. It is hard for me to put $4k into a rearend and transmission and still have the same stock 350 under the hood. JMHO. Of course you have to take into consideration what could happen with something breaks. Transmission wont hurt too many things. Rearend could.

'91 1LE

I second the "another means of transportation" comment. If you baby it the rear will hold until you have money saved. I would rather be driving it, albiet a little slower, than waiting for money. On the flip side, I have broken 2 stock rears with relatively stock 350 engines (stock rears don't like burnout boxes!). And I would look at the Strange S60 for a replacement, it's stronger and cheaper than a 12 bolt.

Marc 85Z28

I cannot believe people are recommending a Dana 60 This isn't a 9 second car he's building. The Dana is very heavy and inefficient - he would be better served with something more suited to what he's building.

I have 2 different 10 bolt rears holding multiple 1.4x passes in 2 different cars.

Injuneer

The Dana is the most efficient (5% loss) compared the the 12-bolt (7% loss) and the 9-inch (10% loss). At least according to data published by Evan Smith in the "technology " section of National Dragster. But is is heavy.

Quarantine

Hmmm,theres a idea,I do have a second car which is my daily driver,I do like the fact that if I bought a engine now,and not really drive it much,then buy the rear end when I get the money I don't want to build a 10 second car or nothing,just something with some power.Would my car handle a 383 if I kept it under 40 mph?

redneckgames

mph has nothing to do with it. You could do 60, 80, 120....

you cant beat on it. In other words, burnouts, clutch drops, slicks, etc.

Marc 85Z28

The S60 is close to 60lbs heavier than the 10 bolt. I've seen cars dyno'd back to back with nothing but rear axle swaps, and the S60 cars eat just as much as the 9" does. I've seen a 15rwhp loss on a 400rwhp car going from a 4.10 geared 10 bolt to the S60.

Again, adding 60lbs and losing 15-20rwhp all while spending roughly $2500 sounds silly to me.

68 RS/SS Ragtop

I went the cheap route and found an 88 IROc austrailian 9 bolt. It fits as a stock component and was $250. It handles my 380hp with no problems.

Marc 85Z28

If you can find one in good condition that is a great alternative. However, parts are getting scarce and very expensive.