radiator dimensions
31" Wide by 19" High
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86 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc Z-28 Fully Loaded With T-Tops
Mods;
Spohn SubFrame Connectors, S&W Race Car Chassis 8 point Roll Cage, 1997 SS Aniversary 3.42 POSI Rear End with 12" Rotors and 4 Piston PBR Calipers, Balanced Drive shaft... Others soon to come...
Best times before any mods done, Complety Stock;15.6 @ 87mph
Waiting for the tracks to open again to see what I got going on Now!
ntimad8.cz28.com
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86 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc Z-28 Fully Loaded With T-Tops
Mods;
Spohn SubFrame Connectors, S&W Race Car Chassis 8 point Roll Cage, 1997 SS Aniversary 3.42 POSI Rear End with 12" Rotors and 4 Piston PBR Calipers, Balanced Drive shaft... Others soon to come...
Best times before any mods done, Complety Stock;15.6 @ 87mph
Waiting for the tracks to open again to see what I got going on Now!
ntimad8.cz28.com
perfect man, thx.
can anyone recommend any aftermarket rad company that makes an aluminum rad that is roughly the same width, but 2-3" shorter in height? i was looking at griffin, but id welcome opinions/advice on others.
Thanks!
Damien
can anyone recommend any aftermarket rad company that makes an aluminum rad that is roughly the same width, but 2-3" shorter in height? i was looking at griffin, but id welcome opinions/advice on others.
Thanks!
Damien
I used a Griffen 19x31 aluminum rad. It's not a direct bolt-in although it's the same size.
The lower rad hose pipe isn't in the exact same place, there's no drain valve on the rad, it doesn't use the factory mounts or hold downs.
I had to make my own top plate to secure the rad. The dual IROC fans wouldn't work (at least in my application with the big block). I just installed a Flex-a-lite black magic 150 fan instead.
A true bolt-in direct replacement aluminum rad can be found called B-Cool but expect to pay close to twice as much as a Griffen.
A better fit would be 17 or 18 x 31. That way the rad could fit under the rad support.
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Stephen's racing page
or check out the race car
87 IROC SuperPro race car
461 big block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.349
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.7
Best corrected ET: 10.983
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 480
Best 60 foot: 1.546
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
The lower rad hose pipe isn't in the exact same place, there's no drain valve on the rad, it doesn't use the factory mounts or hold downs.
I had to make my own top plate to secure the rad. The dual IROC fans wouldn't work (at least in my application with the big block). I just installed a Flex-a-lite black magic 150 fan instead.
A true bolt-in direct replacement aluminum rad can be found called B-Cool but expect to pay close to twice as much as a Griffen.
A better fit would be 17 or 18 x 31. That way the rad could fit under the rad support.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
or check out the race car
87 IROC SuperPro race car
461 big block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.349
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.7
Best corrected ET: 10.983
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 480
Best 60 foot: 1.546
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
wow, great info. thanks guys!
Ucantcme57: ive got a new 'glass cowl hood that wont fit with my stock dual air snorkel (even though the hood was supposed to be a direct bolt in). so i 'persuaded' the hood company to pay for a body guy to modify the hood underneath so that it would fit. well, im not about to actually chop up my hood underneath, so were using the hood company's money to re-route the air intake tract from the TB to the filters. the new piece will be a 3" pipe that somes straight off the TB (same direction as the stock 'pancake' snorkel) and angles down so that it cuts through the stock rad cradle (which is why i need a shorter rad). ive fabbed a new rad cradle for an aftermarket rad so that the 3" pipe can go out totally horizontally from the TB, right over the aftermarket rad, through the stock rad cradle, through where the stock hood latch assembly would be (ive got hood pins), then it angles down to behind the foglights, where it splits and each end of the 3" pipe ends in a fat k&n cone. all of the piping is made of tig welded aluminum and so is the new rad cradle. its gonna look **** hot! just wait till i get some pics up cause its really too hard to picture what its going to look like....
[This message has been edited by i RoC U (edited September 04, 2002).]
Ucantcme57: ive got a new 'glass cowl hood that wont fit with my stock dual air snorkel (even though the hood was supposed to be a direct bolt in). so i 'persuaded' the hood company to pay for a body guy to modify the hood underneath so that it would fit. well, im not about to actually chop up my hood underneath, so were using the hood company's money to re-route the air intake tract from the TB to the filters. the new piece will be a 3" pipe that somes straight off the TB (same direction as the stock 'pancake' snorkel) and angles down so that it cuts through the stock rad cradle (which is why i need a shorter rad). ive fabbed a new rad cradle for an aftermarket rad so that the 3" pipe can go out totally horizontally from the TB, right over the aftermarket rad, through the stock rad cradle, through where the stock hood latch assembly would be (ive got hood pins), then it angles down to behind the foglights, where it splits and each end of the 3" pipe ends in a fat k&n cone. all of the piping is made of tig welded aluminum and so is the new rad cradle. its gonna look **** hot! just wait till i get some pics up cause its really too hard to picture what its going to look like....
[This message has been edited by i RoC U (edited September 04, 2002).]
im going with a griffin aluminum racing rad (part # 475-125241-x on Jeg's site). still looking for some smaller (15") diameter dual fans. or do u guys think i should go with a larger single fan assembly?
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