I have a 99% stock 87 Iroc z.
Heres what we have done to it since we bought it.
New Coolent system. (rad, water pump(high perfromance) & 160 Degree Stat)
Have a Hypertech Stage 2 chip, has an Airfoil & the bottom of the air box cut out. also a Alm Driveshaft

Oh plus new fuel pump, new TPS, New Fuel Filter.

The car runs 14.7s on good days & 14.8s on bad days. (or on really hot days 15.1s)

I want to get Corvette L98 Heads (the Alm ones) Plus I dont know if I should allow him to get his LT4 Kit for his car & keep the cam for mine or just go out & get a new cam.
Also I want Hooker Headers for my car. What else should I get to get my car down to the Low 14s But not in to the 13s?


The car must stay looking stock So no engine change plus its got to stay street worthly with out a rollcage or bar.

 

Vortec Heads will flow better than L98 heads. They are heavier, cast iron vs aluminum.

 

I dont want Heavyer I want Lighter. I dragrace this car. I want HP & Light weight. Plus I want this car Streetable & that way I can still use it as a Daily driver

 

full exhaust...shift kit....gears.....
think that should get you pretty close to 14 flats.

 

Shift Kit for a Auto tranny?






Remember boys this is my daily driver & I dont think my boss would like it to much if I came in to the barn yard scaring her horses.

No only that I dont want to be scared to drive in out in Washington state weather. With my two young kids in the back seats.

 

ummm yes a shift kit is for an auto they it doesnt exist for a stick because well you shift not the car.

Doing a full exhaust doesnt mean it would be loud either its just a matter of getting some mufflers that will be real quiet but still flow well.

 

Ok Well I allow my car to shift it self when going down the track anyways. It allows the car to be more concested (sp?)

 

im not even going to try to figure out what thats supposed to be. All a shift kit does is shift harder then it would normally which means you dont lose as much power during shifts.

 

I assume you're wanting L98s means that your 87 is a 305? AIrfoil means it's TPI L69.
You,ll need to change the intake because the vortec intake ports are ~0.25" taller (longer) than the L98's. I know because I have the alum. vortecs on my 88'.
I think you'll need to pull them off of a Corvette, truck, or Suburban, including the intake. be prepaed to spend more if you go with new instead of used. I paid ~$1050 for my new vortecs from Sallee Chevrolet, and the intake baseplate is from Scroggins-Dickey Performace Parts Scroggins-Dickey

 

My car better not be a 305 running 14.7s @ 99% stock. if it was I am getting good hp out of a slow engine.
No My car is a L98 with Iron heads. Thats the reason I want to go with the Corvette L98 Alm heads. Maybe even get new runners as well.

Money is also an issue here. My husbands 95 z needs a new rear ead & he also needs a couple other minor things before this next raceseason. Along with that I have to put in some money for my 82 pace car. So the cheaper the Mods on my car the better off. No matter What though the engine needs to be resealed. its has 134k miles on it but leaks oil at start up (nice thick blue smoke).

 

I didn't notice the "airfoil" in your post that's why I edited my reply, and you didn't state the displacement. In any case that makes it identical to mine except for the rear-end ratio, and what I had to do to use the vortecs still applies. Corvette's route the hot exhaust gas for the EGR from the pass. side header, and the SD baseplate is the same, you'll need to buy the EGR adapter and weld it to the header. This would look stock if it was a Corvette.

 

Aluminum L98 heads are not going to make noticable gain! They dont flow much better than the Iron heads. If money is an issue I would go to another place on the car to get power. Heads are where you spend the MOST money when you want to make power. If you swapped the L98 aluminum heads you would have a big expence and no real gains.

I would look into headers and an exhaust system..

Good Luck

 

You could do headers and exhaust but unless you want to get out of the stock looking mode, not much you can do for the intakes except maybe port them a little. That and get a custom EPROM

 

Have you got air con on the car?. If you can live without it bin it. That'll lose you about 24lbs. Spare tyre and jack....34lbs. Can you pick up some cheap TFS heads?. More power and another 44lbs saved. All adds up.

 

If they gave me a set of TFS heads, I would use them for a boat anchor.

2 weeks after I had them installed (A month and a half after buying them they sent me an envelope to tell me to change all my guideplates because of manufacturing problems. Way to go. 40K miles later, the car ran like crap. Found out it was a broken rocker. Changed that and noticed that a spring on the #4 cylinder is broke. Changed that and all seemed well. A month later, I was going to reseal the intake because it had developed a leak. Decided to take the heads off and test them. Found out that the valve in #4 had hit the piston and broke a chunk off. That had scarred the motor. New SB. While I was doing that, I decided to change the heads to AFR 190s. Traded it in to an engine builder for some cash. He found that all the valves in the driver side were ok and the passenger side were rolling around in the valve guides. Here is what I think happened. The guides got loose and the valves started slopping around and weakened the spring which broke. Since it was a double spring and the outer one broke, it did not fall into the cylinder but stayed in place. Weaker than the rest, it went down too far before the remaining spring could pull it up and hit the piston.