Problems when starting up
Problems when starting up
today when i started the car (and it's happened a few times before), it sounds like it's dying when i start it, and i have to rev it to keep it alive for about 20 seconds before it starts to idle fine (still feels weird after that though)... if i dont rev it, it dies... got any ideas? it also feels a little more sluggish than before... and the gas milage is CRAP. i plan on changing the o2 sensor and the fuel filter this weekend... u think that might help me with my crap milage? if i was gonna take out my cats soon, should i still get an o2 sensor? or a o2 sim? i dunno if 3rd gens use o2 sims, but i know ls1's do
and when im rolling and i punch it, for some strange reason, the tranny either shifts 1 gear lower than where i am (from 4th to 3rd at like 40 mph), or doesn't shif at all and stays in the same gear till i redline, then it shifts... u think my tranny's slipping? it was just rebuilt like 4 months ago :\ would a shift kit help things? thanks guys
and when im rolling and i punch it, for some strange reason, the tranny either shifts 1 gear lower than where i am (from 4th to 3rd at like 40 mph), or doesn't shif at all and stays in the same gear till i redline, then it shifts... u think my tranny's slipping? it was just rebuilt like 4 months ago :\ would a shift kit help things? thanks guys
sounds to me like your fuel pump could be on its way out. But make sure you check the simple things first (relay, O2, etc) before just diggin into the rear of the car...it's not pretty to change out.
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Im having sort of the same problems you are... but I am almost for sure it is within the ignition.
Im going to do a complete tuneup and throw on a MSD 6A and coil (like I have done on my truck... which helped A LOT) and see how it responds to that.
Im going to do a complete tuneup and throw on a MSD 6A and coil (like I have done on my truck... which helped A LOT) and see how it responds to that.
the fuel pump relay is what i was referring to, right by the firewall on the drivers' side...although i've never had one go bad, it never hurts to check.
i thought for sure that's what it sounded like 9the fuel pump). How's all the routine stuff...all belts good, fresh oil/coolant? How about plugs...are they all tight and wires good? I'm out of ideas for the moment, i'll have to get back to you on that...
i thought for sure that's what it sounded like 9the fuel pump). How's all the routine stuff...all belts good, fresh oil/coolant? How about plugs...are they all tight and wires good? I'm out of ideas for the moment, i'll have to get back to you on that...
Use a heated O2 sensor and take out the cats. I would check fuel pressure first and see if the fuel pressure regulator is good. One thing to check the FPR for is when you shut down. Does it hold the pressure for any length of time?
Also, some morning, before you start the car, take out the plugs and see if they are oil coated or fuel soaked.
Clean the entire throttle body including the IAC. Readjust IAC and then set TPS.
Also, some morning, before you start the car, take out the plugs and see if they are oil coated or fuel soaked.
Clean the entire throttle body including the IAC. Readjust IAC and then set TPS.
While this doesn't seem to be the problem in your case since you did not mention any new mods, I will still throw it out there to make sure.
I have worked on tpi cars that are non-cold start injector vehicles that have had their chip swapped out with ninth injector proms, and they display the EXACT same problems.
If this problem just started and you have not changed out your computer or prom lately than this info is of no use.
The next thing you should do is to change out the fuel filter. I would not even bother picking up an O2 sensor until the more likely culprit, the fuel filter has been changed.
If your problem is still not solved, then you need to get a fuel pressure gauge on the car and varify sufficient fuel pressure is being supplied. Also it couldn't hurt to do a fuel volume test.
And Yes, you should get an AFPR wether that is your problem or not. They are very good tuning aids and can really pick up some good HP.
Good luck,
Martin
I have worked on tpi cars that are non-cold start injector vehicles that have had their chip swapped out with ninth injector proms, and they display the EXACT same problems.
If this problem just started and you have not changed out your computer or prom lately than this info is of no use.
The next thing you should do is to change out the fuel filter. I would not even bother picking up an O2 sensor until the more likely culprit, the fuel filter has been changed.
If your problem is still not solved, then you need to get a fuel pressure gauge on the car and varify sufficient fuel pressure is being supplied. Also it couldn't hurt to do a fuel volume test.
And Yes, you should get an AFPR wether that is your problem or not. They are very good tuning aids and can really pick up some good HP.
Good luck,
Martin
i bought the car a few weeks back and i remember the lady saying she had a performance chip for the car but that she had put the stock one back... first thing i did to the car when i got it was put a new roter+cap, wires and plugs... then i put a new fuel pump cuz the stock one died, and did the free ram air mod. also put a 180 degree thermostat. car also came with flowmaster exhaust. pretty sure the cats are clogged as well cuz my car smells like gas sometimes when im stopped and the fumes are comming from the cats :\
if i got an AFPR, would i still need a fuel pressure gauge in addition to the AFPR, or could i use the AFPR as a fuel pressure guage as well?
if i got an AFPR, would i still need a fuel pressure gauge in addition to the AFPR, or could i use the AFPR as a fuel pressure guage as well?
im having the same problems mine dosent die but it feels like its going to but afte rlike 2 seconds it picks its self up and runs fine. i have a new fuel filter so its not that and i have all tune up parts done
hmm... today i decided to d!ck with my timing...turned on the car, connected my timing light... checked it out, it was like at 12 degrees advanced or somewhere around there... i was like "wtf?" so i turned off the car, disconnected the brown wire with the black stripe, turned on the car and looked at the timing with my timing light... i think it was at 2 or 4 degrees retard... then i turned off the car, connected the brown wire with a black stripe, and damn... my timing went back to stock 6... then i did the TB Bypass and took it for a spin - WHAAAAAAAAT, my car doesn't feel sluggish anymore
... i guess my problem was with the timing. at first i was like "damn i can feel it running harder!" thinking the tb bypass did it, and then i realized that i had also done the timing and i was like "hmm that probably fixed everything" lol
tomorrow, the cats come off and the fuel filter gets replaced... and friday, i'll get new numbers when i go to moroso to put on my sig
i wonder why the timing was so advanced to begin with...
... i guess my problem was with the timing. at first i was like "damn i can feel it running harder!" thinking the tb bypass did it, and then i realized that i had also done the timing and i was like "hmm that probably fixed everything" loltomorrow, the cats come off and the fuel filter gets replaced... and friday, i'll get new numbers when i go to moroso to put on my sig
i wonder why the timing was so advanced to begin with...
i havnt done it on my camaro yet but i would asume to rotate the distrubitor counter clockwise while the brown stripped wire was disconnected from it's plug, and while turning it, look at the timing mark with the timing light to see where you want to set the timing (by turning the distributor). clockwise retards it, counter clockwise advances it.
the only thing i wanted to know was if the comptuer messes with the timing after you connect the brown wire back together.
the only thing i wanted to know was if the comptuer messes with the timing after you connect the brown wire back together.


