84Camaro_L69

Is this worth it? (see site below) I know some of you have done this already, and would it work the same or better if done to a Gen-1 350ci?

http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/325_h...chevrolet.html

I know I would need to rebuild the bottom half of my engine. Right now she runs good, does NOT smoke (after the first 20-30 seconds), and sounds solid. I wouldn't think a machine shop would charge me too much.

Rottluver

In a word, NO. You aren't going to make a car/engine that gets 4-8 MPG all of a sudden get 300-500% better gas mileage.......I would either beef up your cool lil L69 (one of my fav 3rd Gen cars/motors) or take that LT1......either way, be prepared to spend WELL over that $1,000 you have already decided on........

One other thing, about exhaust........with the exception of headers, most any exhaust you put on your car will work with most any motor. Just make sure to pick a free flowing cat back and use 2.5 or 3" pipes for everything and you should be fine for flow and power. Not too mention it will sound bad-***. If you can find a place to do it, I would go for true duals with dual cats......just go with 2.5" pipes. I have a 3" setup on my '02 WS6 and it has ground clearence issues but my buddy's '02 with 2.5" is perfect.

Good luck with your project.

ws6transam

I dont think it's worth building a 300 HP 305 unless the shortblock is in such good shape that you dont have to pull the pistons out of the bores. As soon as you need to swap in a new set of pistons or do any significant machining on the engine block, IMHO it is better to move up to the 350 shortblock.

Same thing with the cylinder heads. You wont make a good 300 HP without porting the cylinder heads. ..and unless you can do all of your own porting, which is a long, messy, dusty job, it's more cost effective to toss them out and buy new heads. Again, at that point it becomes even more cost effective to just buy the whole long block.

If you want 300 RWHP, buy the 400 and reconfigure it for the street with the proper camshaft! You'll have an engine that idles nice, makes good torque, is throttle responsive and can hall the mail when needed.

300 RWHP = 350 HP at the crank = 0.88 HP/CID for the 400 engine.
300 RWHP = 350 HP at the crank = 1.15 HP/CID for the 305 engine.

It's a lot harder to make that 1.15 horsepower per cubic inch with a 305 than it is to make 0.88 HP/CID with a 400. Your 400 will be a lot nicer to drive, and the gas mileage will be about the same as that high-strung 305 with its more radical cam.

anthony714

84,thats a fine engine build but w/o new heads your 325 hp is a thing of dreams and new heads alone are going to blow your 1000 budget

84Camaro_L69

Yeah, you're right. If I try to do it all at once I will go past my set budget. First things first.

Here is how I see it. With the 305 (or any Gen-I SBC) I need to fix my nickel and dime stuff, i.e. smog stuff.

No matter what I NEED, NEED, NEED an exhaust from the cat ($120) to the muffler (cat-back $250).

Headers are a BONUS and cost $450.

BONUS: performance upgrades are not in the picture right now (300hp 305). From what I have read the Vortec heads are $400 - new (the same iron heads that came on the Silverados?) . Edlebrock intake $250. Cam kit $250. (from the Car Craft and Chevy Hi-Perf. articles)

BUT!!! Then I have to ask is it cost effective to keep the 305 and beef it up (and rebuild the bottom half) or junk it in favor of ... whatever???

From the replies I have received, I need to keep my basic wiring, basic smog, carb, accessories, etc. to keep the cost down for an engine swap, if I do a swap.

The general group seems to agree the 400 is too radical and $$$ for my budget.

The Impala LT1 (with 60K-80K miles) $350. Need fuel sending unit $200. Painless Perf. wiring kit $350. General conversion parts (from list seen on thirdgen.org website) $300. BONUS: complete custom wiring job/transformation made easy - spring for the S&P/Hot Rod Lane wiring kit and new computer, etc. $1,000. Actually, this conversion can cost even more money. If you keep it fuel injected. Carb it and the cost is A LOT cheaper ... new intake manifold, distro, and a few other parts under $200 and your done (engine must have all acc. and brackets).

GM Performance crate motor 290hp, 350ci, $1,550.

Lastly, a few of local race/machine shops (specialize in hobby stocks and modifieds) offered to rebuild my 305 between $1150 (low) and $1350 (high). Bored, blue printed, and balanced. Yes, I live in the country where machine shops work cheap. Down in Nashville the same work would be double the cost.

My estimates are about $2,000 for 300+hp no matter which route I take. I may settle on 225hp to 235hp range. I just need my L69 to last a bit longer ... its lasted for 22 1/2 years ... I'm only asking for another 6 months to 18 months. Then I will decide on which route I will take.

Also, I think the original car & driver / motor trend test results in 1984 (in a perfect world) were 1/4 mile times of 15.1 sec. and 0-60 in 7.1 using paper air filter, factory transmission, all season OE tires. A good specimen should be able to duplicate those numbers or be better ... I don't know what trans they used M/AT, but I'm gonna guess manual (if available on the L69 at the time of test).

NOTE: all cost are rounded estimates. please do not crucify me if I'm off by a few bucks.