oil pan gasket
oil pan gasket
well it looks like im leaking enough oil to need a gasket change. i dont think those additives are going to help especially since i dont drive it enough at this point.
anyway anyone out there done a change of their gasket?
what brand is good, or is autozone ok?
what type(one piece or two pieces and the seals)?
what thickness for the seal?
am i going to screw anything up and not be able to put it back if i unbolt all those rusty bolts and the exhaust flanges and stuff and then jack the engine up?
can i drop the pan enough to slide in a new gasket without lifting the engine, i dont need to take out the pan i will just scrape it while its hanging and try not to get junk in the pan. ive done that meathod once before on a friends car.
do i need to use any kind of gasket goop also and around the seals.
anyway anyone out there done a change of their gasket?
what brand is good, or is autozone ok?
what type(one piece or two pieces and the seals)?
what thickness for the seal?
am i going to screw anything up and not be able to put it back if i unbolt all those rusty bolts and the exhaust flanges and stuff and then jack the engine up?
can i drop the pan enough to slide in a new gasket without lifting the engine, i dont need to take out the pan i will just scrape it while its hanging and try not to get junk in the pan. ive done that meathod once before on a friends car.
do i need to use any kind of gasket goop also and around the seals.
The '86 and earlier engines use a cork gasket with rubber end seals. The gasket set will come with 3 end seals, it's fairly easy to tell which ones to use. I personally like Fel-Pro gaskets.
You'll have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the motor up about 2-3" to get enough clearance between the block and pan to scrape the old gasket.
Expect to shear off at least one manifold stud (where the Y-pipe bolts up) unless you REALLY hose them down with WD-40 and let it soak in overnight. Re-spray before attempting to loosen.
Use black RTV on the end seals and where the seals meet the side gaskets. You can run a thin bead all the way around the pan if you want, it certainly won't hurt anything.
You'll have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the motor up about 2-3" to get enough clearance between the block and pan to scrape the old gasket.
Expect to shear off at least one manifold stud (where the Y-pipe bolts up) unless you REALLY hose them down with WD-40 and let it soak in overnight. Re-spray before attempting to loosen.
Use black RTV on the end seals and where the seals meet the side gaskets. You can run a thin bead all the way around the pan if you want, it certainly won't hurt anything.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



