Hi ...how long does it take for a new motor to be broken in as far as heat is concerned...with the cooling system? How long before it runs normal and not as hot as it is new? Make sense? I have an aluminum radiator and 160 degree thermostat and a painless system running the fans at...on at 200 off at 185 degrees...or should i use the other option...on at 185 off at 170....plz help..thx??? 2 questions asked....I live in west Tx...so its pretty warm here!!

 

not knowing where you live and the climate, if you get one that turns the fans on at 185 your car may never get warm in the winter. basically your heater wont work as well as it should and there may be some other stuff im not sure. I would stick with the 200

 

60,000 miles
oh and use s 185 thermostat and have the fan turn on at 200 to 220 and off at 190
that way the thermostat is always allowing coolant flow throughout the block. i have posted lots of info about thermostats its in this thread
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359984

 

hey..thx for the info!! But how long does it take for the motor to be broken in completely and start to run cooler?

 

the engine itself does not run cooler when its broken generally. this is of course to the best of my knowledge. however it takes about 60000 miles to fully break in an engine since that is when the engine has reached its final shape after countless heating and cooling cycles.
a higher milege engine i would think would run hotter since there are more carbon deposits to trap heat in. if anyone else knows better feel free to correct me.

 

Ok...I have a 180 degree thermostat and the fans are connected to a painless system which comes on at 200 and shuts off at 185. The temp guage sensor is on the block right below the header driveside. The temp sensor for the fans is on the manifold right by the water outlet. With all this in mind....what radiator will be best...aluminum(2 rows with 40 fins each) or metal( 3 rows not 2 sure about the fins)?....What temp should I be alarmed with? Also I am not running the heater valve at all....the 2 heater hoses go directly to the water pump and the other to the manifold.....thx

 

well 3 rows has more surface area to disapate the heat so that in itself would allow it to run cooler. the real question is do you get a down flow radiator or a cross flow radiator. as for the amount of fins i cant answer that confidently. however the purpose of the fins is to direct airflow accross the radiator. and i would think that more fins means more surface area as well.
the downflow is stock on the third gen. it works fine but the coolant can circulate faster than the cross flow. and thus less heat disappation.
the crossflow type take a longer path to complete the circuit so it allows for more heat dissapation. remember the collant system is only responsible for dissapating 1/3 of the heat. the other 2/3's are the oil system and the exhaust system.

 

ok this is the one im using right now...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...WA%3AIT...what oil is best to use??...thx

 

this is the other one I have but its metal http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW thx for your views!!

 

the second one is ugly. lol.
the radiator you need depends on how your gonna make the car preform.
if you run it real hard than you need a radiator with a lot of surface area. what it boils down to is how high your cooling capacity needs will be and that will determine which one to get.
remember more surface area means more cooling ability.

 

what type of radiator do you have?...name brand?

 

i have the stock radiator.
my car runs a little too hot though around 220 in the summer and i go through sparkplugs about as often as i change oil.
my plan is to install dual fans that should take care of it.and prolly a tranny oil cooler to take the extra load off the cooling system.