Hey guys, I have the opportunity to buy a 3.27 non posi disc brake rear end with cherry rotors and overall good shape for 100 bucks. My question is, is it worth it??? I would really like a posi unit, but for thie price, it seems like a worthwhile deal.... Input please, I am going to look at it tonight! THanks guys
Will
Will
THATS WHAT I WANTED TO HEAR
THANKS BRO
YOU MADE MY DAY
Will
THANKS BROYOU MADE MY DAY
Will
I am assuming its a 9 bolt, but he told me flat out it does not have posi, all I know for sure is its disc rear and non posi. I am going to look at it tonight to get the lowdown!
Thanks for all the speedy replies guys
Will
Thanks for all the speedy replies guys
Will
Registered User
Unless I'm mistaken the 9-bolts were all posi. That doesn't mean the posi is still working though...it may just need rebuilt. Either way $100 is a hell of a deal for a 3.27 disc rear.....I paid over $400 to get my 9-bolt (3.70) shipped to my shop.
And if for some reason it's a 3.23 10-bolt then you can get an SLP posi for $100 and throw it in yourself in a couple of hours.....it doesn't require aligning the gears because you don't take them out.
The only way to really tell for sure if it's posi or not is to take off the cover and look at the differential. If you see gears in the middle, it's an open diff. If you see springs, it's a limited slip posi, and if its just a big chunk of iron then it's a mechanical posi (the best kind).
Also you don't have to change the master cylinder....just make sure you get a 4-wheel disc proportioning valve that matches the year of your car, not the year of the rearend. It'll bolt right in and work perfectly.
And if for some reason it's a 3.23 10-bolt then you can get an SLP posi for $100 and throw it in yourself in a couple of hours.....it doesn't require aligning the gears because you don't take them out.
The only way to really tell for sure if it's posi or not is to take off the cover and look at the differential. If you see gears in the middle, it's an open diff. If you see springs, it's a limited slip posi, and if its just a big chunk of iron then it's a mechanical posi (the best kind).
Also you don't have to change the master cylinder....just make sure you get a 4-wheel disc proportioning valve that matches the year of your car, not the year of the rearend. It'll bolt right in and work perfectly.
Anyway guys, this turned out to be one hell of a good evening for me. Turns out the the rear end was a 9 bolt POSI I could not believe it. What a dumbass, he said it was not, but sure enough, both rotors spin when i turn the half of the drive shaft left attached...... The calipers are half painted this dumb color, but whatever, I can take care of that easily. The rear came out of an 87 iroc with 67K miles ... It just doesn't get better for 100 bucks. Got rotors, calipers, hoses, ebrake cables, half a drive shaft and brackets, seems they didnt bother unbolting it and just cut the driveshaft as well as mounting points. Also got the rear swaybar...... I will take some pics and post them before and after I get it all cleaned up. Its still got paint on it, as opposed to mine which is a solid rust color...
Thanks for all the help guys!
Will
Thanks for all the help guys!
Will
Registered User
Almost every 9 bolt is posi (many are worn out though), but a few open units do exist. More info is at www.9bolt.com
Miles
Miles