It runs and drives fine, but there has been a signifigant loss in power, response, MPG, idle.....It is like this most of the time but everynow and then, for about a day, it will get it all back, and the next day it's back to the same problems. I was thinking it sounded like a MAF sensor, but do those go bad? And what happens when they do? When I start the car, it acts like it's going to die, not really bad, but a lil bit. Much help is appreciated.

 

my bros 87 t/a did the same thing......check ur exhaust manifolds after driving for about 20 minutes.......if they r glowing then ur cat converter is cloged....replace it/gut it...... TPS, O2, change em as well........plugs plug wires too......we did all this at once so i cant tell ya which will help the most so just do em all.......wont hurt ya

 

Any codes? Got scanner? If so you will be able to tell if it was in closed loop or not. How is the TPS?

 

No, no codes yet. I do have access to a scanner, but will not be able to get to it until January the 7th. I'll check it and get back w/ you again. Thanx for the help guys.

 

I'd suspect a vacuum leak b/c of the erratic idle, or weak spark by failing coil, but ignition misses will be present through all rpms.
I'd check all of the vacuum hoses for leaks, you can also find a leak by using a 2ft or so length of small air hose at your ear as a stethascope(sp?)to accurately zero in on any "hissing" sounds. Gaskets can also leak so check around them too. If you suspect a leak you can use carb cleaner and spray the area using the little red straw provided with the can. The idle will drop when you spray a leak heavily...

 

hey man
I kind of got the same problem going with my car only a 305 TBI, i posted my question under "sluggish", got some good feedback in relation to almost the same problem. check it out.

 

whats TPS stand for??

 

Throttle Position Sensor. And although they do go bad... I would check it first and see if it can be set back to specs. I know mine was WAY out of spec according to the tech article on TGO. Stop by there and look it up. Its not as hard as it sounds. You will need a volt(multi) meter and a paperclip. Follow the directions to the T. And make sure to disconnect the timing advance(brown wire over by the pass side strut tower) before making any adjustments. It made of world of difference in my iroc. Hope it all gets worked out

Will

 

When you get the scanner, you can check the TPS without the DVOM. You want to observe the TPS voltage without any foot pressure. If that is within spec (0.54V I believe) then the next thing is to slowly depress the pedal till it hits bottom. While you are doing it, you need to see if there is a dead spot. The voltage should increase when you apply pressure and stop increasing when you stop your foot and it should return back to the starting point. Also make sure that the TPS is not somehow binding with something by not returning when your foot is releasing the pressure.