should i mod my 305 or save for a 350? I don't know how serious i'm going to get with the speed factor, but i figure that if i'm going to get in to it... i'd better do it right. no matter how long it takes. I planned to start modding the general stuff next summer.... I'm thinking on doing the hedman shorty headers, y pipe, and 3" cat-back. The SDPC intake, vortec heads, cam, ported plenum and runners seem to be a popular combination and i could probably squeeze them in next summer as well if i decide to stay 305. I'm afraid i will eventually want a 350 though... so now i'm wondering if i should mod or save? or maybe mod the 305 then swap the new stuff to the 350? my reason for wanting a new 350:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2427720852
i would be willing to wait a year for something like that at that price. Is the 305 to 350 a clean swap? Is there anything really outrageous that needs to be done? lemme know guys, i'm freakin out here

 

well the sdpc setup is not bad at all with a nice cam and vortec heads and ported plenum with slp runners is not a bad way to mod a tpi motor.But br for all of that what is the condition of your motor now?is it a tpi?can you do all the work your self?To swap complete motors is cheaper than doing heads and a cam or about the same depending who is doing the work.Remember either way you go both motors need a good exhaust so they are not a factor,you need it.I would get the basic's bolt on's out of they way and save for a new motor.

 

I would start by stiffening the chassis a little so you can actually put the power to the ground, then build the 350 and drop it in.

 

Geezer: Currently I have a stock 305 TPI with 70 k miles on it. Pretty good condition (from what I know). I guess the exhaust will be the first order of operation... hedman headers into 3" all the way back dual exhaust. Do you know if Borla's sound good?Also, do you have a guestimate on how much it would cost to swap motors? I imagine my dad and i could do it if no serious changes/modifications are required
GreatJ: Again, thx for the advice... i forgot about the chassis ( : Subconnectors? hehe, what else? Do you know of any good kits i might be able to pick up? Also, I have 2.77 rear gears (if this even ties into what you are suggesting I do) and those will eventually go... i'm hoping for an easy swap to the performance 3.27 the 87-89's got. should modifying the rear end be on my priority list?

 

GET SOME SUBFRAMES roflmao thank J keep em coming ya crack me up

 

I think a 3in true dual is way over kill for a stock 350.single 3in is perfect.(have seen alot of cars with single 3in exhaust and shorty headers go well below 11.90's in the 1/4 mile NA boot)with 305 you don't have a bad starting point at all just remember what ever you do you want to be able to swap it later on to another if you choose that way to go.I would do full bolt on's and keep the inside of the motor untouched.First to is full exhaust shorty headers high flow cat and 3in exhaust.(borla sounds not so well on 3rd gen to low compression)edlebrock sounds good on 3rd gens.subframes will help greatly on any f/body so don't forget those(bmr makes great stuff).If your an auto a high stall converter and 3.73's.I can think of alot to do but you should start with these basic's.Check gmhightechperformane.com 3rd gen project car that will help

 

Top-Down Solutions has a group purchase going right now for Alston subframe connectors, and you can get a good price on a wonderbar if you buy them together. The 2 together offer a MAJOR upgrade in chassis strength. It's gonna be a couple month wait becuase Lon needs to have the money up front, but it's a great deal. Also he has about the best customer service out there. I'm already in on the GP...if you wanna look into it go to TDS and look in the "New Products" section.

As far as other suspension work: I recommend Spohn LCA's, PHR, torque arm and tranny crossmember in the back. A 36mm hollow front and 24mm solid rear swaybar is considered to be about the best anti-roll setup around (very solid but not stiff enough to hurt traction.) You could also do the front end with polyurethane bushings to tighten everything up. In fact, that may be a good place to start since the car IS 15 years old and the stock rubber bushings are probably about shot.

I made the mistake of going power before support. I built my 355 and it blew my tranny. Then I got a 6-speed to handle the power and my gearing was terrible for it (2.73's always wanted to stall her out.) Now I have that straightened out, and chassis flex is taking all my clearcoat off and I can't get traction for anything. If I had it to do over....I'd start with suspension. After that some bolt-ons, gears, and a good exhaust, then go engine and trans. Power doesn't do you much good without support.

 

awesome, I'll check out TDS and see if i can afford to get in on the sfc/wonderbar deal. That and the bushings are where i will start.

 

ok, i'm checking out THD... looking at the sfc's and wonderbar combo for $203. i'm wondering if there is any reason why i would want the subframes powder coated? does that do anything for them or is it only for looks? if it doesn't serve a purpose then i guess i'll opt to save $15 and get the bare steel ones.

 

Looks and corrosion resistance. Personally, I'm getting them bare and painting them with POR-15 once they're welded in.