Manual Steering Box for 3rd Gen
#1
Manual Steering Box for 3rd Gen
Has anyone already been down this road? Can you help me out with a part number? need to go manual steering box and manual
brakes..
Thankyou
Israel Sweeney
brakes..
Thankyou
Israel Sweeney
#4
I don't think those early boxes will work since they are designed to fit behind the steering axle. I think GM changed the sector shaft size in 1978. They also have a different size sector shaft so you can't use the late model pitman arm to keep the same steerin geometry. A manual steering box from an 80's S10/S15 is a direct bolt in. Just reuse the pitman arm from your third gen steering box.
Search on Ebay for Manual Sterring Box. There's at least one available every week.
As for manual brakes do you really need them? You're not saving much weight be removing the booster. It's only around 5 pounds. I have pics in my gallery on how I converted mine over to manual brakes. I did it mostly for access to the BBC. If you want to know exactly what's involved in doing a conversion let me know. It's not as simple as just removing the booster and swapping the master cylinder.
Search on Ebay for Manual Sterring Box. There's at least one available every week.
As for manual brakes do you really need them? You're not saving much weight be removing the booster. It's only around 5 pounds. I have pics in my gallery on how I converted mine over to manual brakes. I did it mostly for access to the BBC. If you want to know exactly what's involved in doing a conversion let me know. It's not as simple as just removing the booster and swapping the master cylinder.
#5
The brakes are a must unless i want to go vacume pump or change the cam and im not real intrested in either of those.. I tried the vacume canister actually works great for first brake apply then no power brakes for about 45 seconds
The car started out as an 85 berlineta camaro these had the 4 wheel disc's stock
it now has a 408 cubic inch bowtie block brodix heads steel crank 5.7 steel rods 2 valve relief JE flat tops with a zero decked block
and a mid .600's lift cam.. I ran it with power steering and brakes with the last 400 but it was a low 11's car at the time and built plenty of vacume.
so the now power steering and non power brake seem to be a must at this point
I would definetly be instrested in the brake change over that you did my mustang was easy, you find manual brake adapters everywhere for them Camaros are harder to come by
thanks
Israel Sweeney
The car started out as an 85 berlineta camaro these had the 4 wheel disc's stock
it now has a 408 cubic inch bowtie block brodix heads steel crank 5.7 steel rods 2 valve relief JE flat tops with a zero decked block
and a mid .600's lift cam.. I ran it with power steering and brakes with the last 400 but it was a low 11's car at the time and built plenty of vacume.
so the now power steering and non power brake seem to be a must at this point
I would definetly be instrested in the brake change over that you did my mustang was easy, you find manual brake adapters everywhere for them Camaros are harder to come by
thanks
Israel Sweeney
#6
The hardest thing about the brake conversion is the lines. Somewhere in the 80's GM started using metric bubble flare fittings. Lines have to be changed and swapped around anyway.
The third gen master cylinder has the outlet ports on the engine side because there's no room beside the strut to have them on the fender side. Just about every other master cylinder has the outlet ports on the fender side.
I found a manual master cylinder from an S10 truck. I never used an adaptor plate to mount it to the firewall. I just drilled 2 holes through the firewall into the brake support on the inside and bolted it on. The brake lines then need to be re-routed so that they go to the other side of the master cylinder. I never found any adaptor fittings so I cut and double flared the metric lines to attach to the S10 master cylinder. I lucked out and they don't leak. My car was originally 4 wheel disk brakes and I kept the same combination valve. I have no problems slowing down from 128 mph at the end of the track but then I also use 11" ford drum brakes in the back now.
Because the manual master cylinder is mounted straight onto the firewall instead of angled upward like the power units, the brake pedel needs to be modified. In older vehicles, the brake pedel has 2 holes depending if the car was spec'd for manual or power brakes. All late model cars only have one mounting point. You need to pull the brake pedel out and drill a 3/8" hole 1" higher on the pedel. This will increase the mechanical advantage required for manual brakes plus it will allow the rod to move straight out to the master cylinder instead of upward. You'll need to fabricate a new pushrod. You can see the connection I did in my pictures. Cut down the S10 push rod and thread the end for the heim joint. Trial and error is required to determine the length needed.
That's about it. It's not that hard to do but some fabrication is required to get it to work. Mine was a bit harder because I also have a line lock I had to plumb in.
The third gen master cylinder has the outlet ports on the engine side because there's no room beside the strut to have them on the fender side. Just about every other master cylinder has the outlet ports on the fender side.
I found a manual master cylinder from an S10 truck. I never used an adaptor plate to mount it to the firewall. I just drilled 2 holes through the firewall into the brake support on the inside and bolted it on. The brake lines then need to be re-routed so that they go to the other side of the master cylinder. I never found any adaptor fittings so I cut and double flared the metric lines to attach to the S10 master cylinder. I lucked out and they don't leak. My car was originally 4 wheel disk brakes and I kept the same combination valve. I have no problems slowing down from 128 mph at the end of the track but then I also use 11" ford drum brakes in the back now.
Because the manual master cylinder is mounted straight onto the firewall instead of angled upward like the power units, the brake pedel needs to be modified. In older vehicles, the brake pedel has 2 holes depending if the car was spec'd for manual or power brakes. All late model cars only have one mounting point. You need to pull the brake pedel out and drill a 3/8" hole 1" higher on the pedel. This will increase the mechanical advantage required for manual brakes plus it will allow the rod to move straight out to the master cylinder instead of upward. You'll need to fabricate a new pushrod. You can see the connection I did in my pictures. Cut down the S10 push rod and thread the end for the heim joint. Trial and error is required to determine the length needed.
That's about it. It's not that hard to do but some fabrication is required to get it to work. Mine was a bit harder because I also have a line lock I had to plumb in.
#7
I put a manual steering box from an S10 on my 84 Camaro.
Real easy, just swap the pitman arm from your existing power steering box and you are set. Obviously be sure to line it up so that the box is centered and your wheels are too.
The only grinding I had to do was about 1/4" off one of the sway bar brackets.
Real easy, just swap the pitman arm from your existing power steering box and you are set. Obviously be sure to line it up so that the box is centered and your wheels are too.
The only grinding I had to do was about 1/4" off one of the sway bar brackets.
#9
#11
IVE DONE BOTH. I USED AN 85 S10 MANUAL BOX.WORKED GREAT AND YES I DID HAVE TO GRIND A LITTLE OFF THE SWAY BAR BRACKET. YOU MIGHT WANT TO CONSIDER USING A WONDER BAR ALSO BECAUSE THESE SUB FRAMES ARE KNOWN TO BE WEAK WHERE THE BOX BOLTS ON AND THE MANUAL BOX WILL PUT ALOT MORE PRESURE ON IT. AS FOR THE MANUAL BRAKES I ALSO USED A NEW S10 MASTER CYLINDER. I TOOK THE PETAL ASSEMBLY OUT THIS ALLOWS YOU TO WORK OUT THE ROD LENGTH ON THE BENCH IN STEAD OF UNDER THE DASH. I PREESED OUT THE FACTORY ROD MOUNT AND DRILLED A NEW HOLE THEN PREESED IT IN AND WELDED IT ALSO. I ALSO MADE A LITTLE PEICE SO THAT THE ROD CANT DROP DOWN. WORKED OUT REAL NICE. I ALSO LIKE THE WAY THE LINES COME UP ON THE FENDER SIDE NOW I REMOVED ALL THOSE CRAZY COILED UP LINES AND VALVES AND DID IT LIKE WE DO ON MOST OF THE STREET RODS AND STUFF WE DO. JUST NICE STRAIGHT LINES. IT ALL WORKED OUT GOOD AND WASNT THAT BAD AT ALL. IF YOU DONT WANNA DO ALL THE PETAL WORK ED QUAY SELLS A KIT TO DO IT BUT I THINK YOU HAVE TO SEND THEM YOUR PETAL AND THEY WILL MODIFY IT.
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