Hey guys. I am looking at the instrutction on how to install the B&M Launch control kit. And none of the figures look like my car. There is one solenoid that comes in this kit with a in and out port for the brake lines and two wire connections. Simple. However, I don't know where to tap in (front disk, rear drum brakes). There are two lines out of the master cylinder into the proportioning valve. Out of that valve, there are three lines that go out, I assume two to the front and one to the rear. So, do I install this solenoid between the master cylinder and the pp. valve? And if so, which do I have to tap into, the front or the rear line? If I am mistaken, what do I do then, 'cause this has me confused. Thanks.

 

To pass a tech inspection it has to be installed after the combination valve.

The combination valve has 5 lines attached to it. 2 are inlet and 3 are outlet. One outlet goes to the rear brakes. The other 2 outlets go to each of the front brakes.

Remove one of the front brake lines from the combination valve and plug the open port on the valve. Remove the other front brake line from the combination valve. Connect a line from the remaining open port on the combination valve to the inlet port of the line lock. Install a Tee fitting on the outlet of the line lock and connect the 2 front brake lines to the Tee fitting.

What you have now is a single line coming out of the combination valve for the front brakes. It goes into the line lock which diverts fluid to both front brakes.

There are other ways to run the lines before the combination valve but as I first mentioned, it needs to be done this way to pass a tech inspection.

You step on the brakes in the water box and push the line lock button. When you release the brakes, the line lock holds the pressure in the front brakes only. After you do your burnout you release the line lock so the car can roll forward.

 

What will that do for my street driveability. Will it interfear, or will it be fine. I drive this car now every day. I understand the explanantion, that is what I was confused on. Because, I though I would need two solenoids, which means I gotta buy it twice. And if I installed it, I would want to pass tech, so might as well do it right once.

P.S. That th350 and 10" converter are still doing fine, although with 3.27 kinda sucks on the street for gas, but the car is getting faster as I keep tuning it. I think I might put a 12" converter in for winter, as I gotta drive it a lot lately and flashing it everywhere sucks.

 

Having 2 seperate lines coming off the combination valve in the factory setup is a backup system. It just isolates each of the front wheels.

Having both lines connected to a Tee fitting off the line lock will work just fine. It won't affect streetability since it operates like normal unless you push the line lock button.

It's good to hear the torque converter and tranny are still doing good for you. Swapping converters for winter driving is a good idea. It doesn't take much to pull the tranny back to do the swap.

 

I know and gas milage will improve, that is for sure. I kind of want to build a 700-R4 and get some 3.73s, that way I can cruise but still get improved gear ratio. However, the cost alone and the fact that the first-second gear drop is so big is prohibitive. I think my current setup with 4.10s would work well for drag racing. I want to hook it up and run 12s, which I think I should be able to. Right now I can only pull about a 13.7 and 104 mph. My car is now tuned ok, and is just slightly slower then it was with a T5. So, I would expect that 4.10s and some traction I can get it down to 12s. I also have a solid roller cam, endura-x lifters that I would like to run, but not without a 10" and some deeper gears. Now i have 3.27s. My best 60-foot was 2.1ish. I need to improve that a LOT! So hoping a switch from flat tappet to solid roller, plus the gears and slicks I can get it down to 12.9ish range. I think it might be possible.

 

My 383, the one that I blew up, was very powerfull. I used that tranny and converter with 3.27 gears and was pulling high 1.7's 60' times. Of course I also used slicks and ran high 11's at 117 mph.

You might have more potential with slicks. I think those 2.1's is a lot of tire spin. Especially on the Friday Night races when there's no track prep.

What rpm are you shifting at and what rpm are you at when you cross the finish line? That will determine the best gear ratio you'll need.

I have a set of 4.10 gears but they're for a 10 bolt, not the 9 bolt

 

Well, I shift at about 6300 RPM. It seems to have a miss for some reason up that high. I thought it was the ignition module not keeping up, I had a crane digital box sitting in my garage so I put it in. Not much changed. I would like to shift at 6500 RPM or so. When I upgrade to solid roller, I expect 6800 RPM shift points. (cam is 242/248 duration at .050, .570/.579 lift with 1.5 RR (I got 1.5 RR and 1.6 RR) and 112 lsa).

With 4.10s and a T5, I crossed the line in 4th (1:1) at 5800 RPM. So with a th350 I expect similar RPM at the line with 4.10s. Now, I can't remember (only raced it once), I think I just shift out of second and a second later I am through the traps.

I have a set of 4.10s for a 10-bolt as well, but they are going into the '94 car. I broke that ring and pinon this summer (4.10 GM Motive). Now has 3.42s, but not for long! I also still have the original 3.08 posi 10-bolt that cam in that car stock.

That 383 must have been to run 117 mph and 11s. I want to run high 12s on motor with what I have now, slicks, gears and that cam. I think it will be possible. I think I can expect to gain 30-40 HP with that cam, now I have a 224/234 duration at .050, .496/.520 lift and 114 lsa flat tappet cam. Gonna go bigger, solid and roller, and go 4.10. I think power through the entire powerband will increase. Best 60-foot I got with the th350 was 2.03 with 28" tall huge tires and the 3.27s, but the car was not running right that night. Ran at 3 deg. initial timing, went 14.008 at 99 mph. With tall tires too. Now it runs a lot better.

 

Top end miss might be lack of fuel. I had a similar problem. When I upgraded the fuel lines and ran #8 (1/2") line from the fuel cell right to the carb, the problem went away. I may have had other problems that were fixed at the same time but I think it was a fuel problem.

 

I just took a look at Race City's web site. Friday night Secret Street racing is still on until the snow arrives. You need to call Race City to get all the details.

If you think you can handle the cold track, you can still get out an do some testing. I should put the slicks back on the car so I can test out the refreshed tranny I just installed. The transbrake wasn't holding at a very high rpm.

The air needs to get a lot better. The barometric pressure has been falling all week.

If you do go out, make sure to thank the volunteers, write it on the back of your tech card, that you appriciate them coming out to support such a long Secret Street season.

 

Secret Street update

I called the Race City hotline. The late season Secret Street is now being held on Sundays. Gates open at 10 AM. I guess it's just too cold to be out on Friday nights now.

Looks like I'll just have to go put the slicks back on the car and get some more track time in this Sunday depending on the weather.

It's all a money maker for Race City anyway. They charge admission, offer no payouts since there's no competition and use little to no traction compound on the track. If I find out that I can't hook up at all, I'll decide it's not worth the money to burn my tires off going down the track and not show up again until real racing starts.

You can show up to look at my car to see how I installed my line lock.