open for opinions on upgrades or mods for l98 , ive got complete accel ignition, ported intake- plenum, airfoil, k&n ram air, 700r with vette accumulater and servo with race clutches and hp band, 3.42 posi , b&m polished ratchet shifter.160 stat, jegs fan swithes,cool temp sens. and 3 in. exhaust to flowmaster catback.

 

headers
electric water pump
underdrive pulley
cam
1.6 roller rockers with upgraded springs
suspension mods

 

i forgot about my suspension, i have a full kyb suspension with energy susp. bushings and sway bars.

 

Headers, most definately as stated before, and full exhaust for that matter. Will open up that flow and make your ride sound awesome.

A set of heads would really open up your potential, but only as much as that intake could flow..something to think about. Intake and head combo would be awesome...expensive, but awesome gains.

Another cheap mod you can do is get a custom prom burnt for you from www.PCMforless.com . They do great work, and have a dyno proven section you can check out. Burns are cheap too...about 125$. Check out their dyno sheets, lots of L98's have picked up good numbers.

 

custom chip is the way to go,
L98 stock chip sucks, for MAF cars its terrible

 

by suspension i mean

lca
phb
sfc
torque arm
sway bars

things like that...not just shocks and bushings

alot of those will help plant the rear tires and get better trraction at launch

 

weld-in sub frame connectors and a strut tower brace will get rid of a ton of creaks and rattles as well as make your car's steering feel a lot tighter. they make something called the "wonderbar" which is basically a strut tower brace type thing except it goes on the bottom of the suspension setup. They came stock in a couple years of IROCs but i'm not exactly sure which ones.

lower control arms, panhard bar, and a torque arm will help out with traction

headers will give you a sotp difference but will also make you want to kill someone when you have to change plugs..... well worth the effort though.

 

lakewood 90-10 front struts

lakewood 50-50 rear shocks


remove sway bars


lca's and torque arm


moser 12bolt with 456 gears



turbo 350 with manual valve body


forged steel 355, afr heads, solid roller cam, 1.6 rockers, 4800-5200 stall convertor, 250 shot nos

frame ties


8 point cage



this is my car, its a fun street car, it has run a best of 10:07 at milan dragway here in michigan. good luck! there are a ton of goodies you can buy for these cars

 

You are doing good on the basic mods. Definately get sub-frame connectors next followed by rear lower control arms. Maybe some drag radials too. After that I would get headers and maybe a Holley Stealth Ram intake, but thats just me. A lot of good suggestions posted above, but if you want real speed get the gear that will stick your tires to the road first.

 

I wouldn't suggest getting an HSR quite yet with those stock heads/cam. He won't see much of a difference in power, except for a longer power curve by about 500rpm, and a loss of low end torque. HP will stay about the same with stock heads and cam, maybe 10hp, but nothing to take advantage of the full potential of that intake.

 

LOL why disconnect the sway bars? I had somone who removed the sway bar before I bought my car - because aparently they couldnt hook up at the track with the 3.73 gears. I had to fix it because the car literally swayed all over the highway in the slightest wind or bump. If anything get that sway bar updated and fitted with polyurethane bushings, basicaly go to www.thunderracing.com and look under suspension - if you dont have what they show you get one, or something similar. Suspension is the START, and the KEY to a good muscle car - power is worthless if you cant control it - period.

 

Beats me. I know some disconnect the front one to get better weight transfer at the track, but I wouldn't perminately leave them off.

I just installed the missing links in mine about a month ago, and the difference is night and day...I can take highway onramps at 80mph and still keep my composure (I dont normally do this, it was a test to see improvements.) Before I would be lucky to hit 50 before I felt the car would careen out of control.

Traction increased too...I think it is due to the fact that the rear axle is now one with the body, makes the axle plant more when weight transfers. Basically it has nowhere to go but down now.

 

Exactly, It wouldnt be there if it wasnt designed to be made of some use. Upgrades for specific applications may be a wise way to go - but never simply removing something to get a short term "short cut" performance use.