My rusty fuel tank is leaking at its seams and I want to replace everything on it when we drop it so I don't have to worry about this headache again for 10 years or so ... and I have a lot of questions ...

Which fuel tank should I use ... reproduction GM2721A or GM2721B in my L69 equipped Camaro?

Will a used sending unit be okay in my car (since they seem to be discontinued or not available on the aftermarket at this time)?

Are there any parts on mine that I will NEED to carry over, i.e. float parts, wiring, washers, etc. Anything that wears or doesn't wear?

What manufacturer and part number will replace my original helper pump?

If I use a standard electric pump, will it send too much fuel to my other pump?

Does the helper pump shut off after the engine is running?

Because of my schedule I will buy all the parts and either the chevy dealer (works fast) or the shop next to my office (cheaper, but takes longer) will do the work for me so I have to ensure I have all the parts or they will keep my car in "shop jail" for a week or so (been there before).

You know what is funny, I already had the two pump discussion with Classic Industries, and their experts kept telling me I was wrong when I told them I had two pumps, but Advance Auto parts showed two in their computer, but they could only supply me with the block one on my engine (after it blew up - the diaphram leaked really bad). They are also the same people who are the only supplies for the driver side grill (82-84) and want $75 (3" x 4" plastic) for it. Thanks.

 

I can answer some, but not all of your questions.

Some, but not all L69 cars had 2 fuel pumps. A block mounted mechanical pump, and a small electric intank pump. The intank pump was used to help fight vapor lock, which was a common problem with the carbed 3rd gens. Also, that electric pump was part of a TSB that GM issued to cure the vapor lock; some cars got a blower motor for the carb! Supposedly the 1987 carbed cars got the dual pump setup as well.

The electric pump is unique to the application, and must not be replaced with any other type, as it is specially designed for a low pressure fuel system. You could use another pump (and eliminate the mechanical block mounted unit) by installing a sending unit and pump assembly from a fuel injected car like the TPIs and run a fuel pressure regulator, using the stock return line. It's a little expensive and labor intensive, but highly recommended and worth the effort.

While I can't tell you what repro. tank you need, I can tell you that swapping over to a late 4th gen style plastic tank is a good idea. You'll eliminate the rust problem permanently, and could also get the entire pickup, pump, and sending unit assembly. There are several people who have done this and may chime in with more detail.

 

I'm pretty sure that "if" my car has the second pump, it is broken, and if not it should have had one. During this past winter I had to carry a can of gas in the back seat to pour into the carb after both initial cold and hot starts ... I'm in west Texas now and haven't seen a winter yet, compared to living in up-state NY where the temps were between -20 and 20 when I had serious starting problems. I don't want to experience that crap again, no matter how cold/warm it is in TX. I like having my car start everytime I turn the key.
Thanks for your advice.

Does anyone know the difference between the GM2721A or GM2721B tanks besides one is for fuel injected cars/in tank pumps and the other is for carb/block mounted pumps? Will the "A" model for block mounted pumps work whether I have an in-tank L69 or not?