Runin2Nite

So my depression story of the nite.... i was cruzin home and i caught a lite with a old integra witha turbo. i stayed next to him.... but could not pass him for ****.
Why is my car runing so freaking slow what else can i do.
Stats: 305 tpi 700r4 75k, went to the track last yr with absolutly NOTHING DONE no 160 thermostat or fan switch even. ranna steady 15.3

NOW: i have put shorty headers on lost my cat, lost the air pump, 4th gen rear end with a ****ty 2.87 or somthin ****ty like that, (but still better cause its posi not 1 tire fire any more) i have the t/b bypass, man fan switch, 160 therm, new plugs, OOOLLLLDDD *** wires that need to be replaced. basic maintence is done trans flush and oil change type stuff. (i also have a 150 wet shot that i haven't had the ***** to shoot yet. i think i'll blow her up)
and for some reason my check engine light is on... can that be from the oxygen pump being removed??

onefastgta

Check your initial timing, and play with the settings advanced around 8-12 degrees along with an adj fuel pressure regulator.

Runin2Nite

timeings advanced, i can't find a cheap enought fpr... any1 no how to build your own, i heard its not hard

Pneumatic_Tire

check engine light is on? Pull the code and find out why first. A sensor that is whacked out can kill alot of power. Also, bottomline is this. 305 tpi and 350 tpi's were good. FOR THEIR TIME. Fact is technology has increased dramatically, and so has the 4 and 6 cylinder engines of today. Just cause you got a tpi 305 or 350 doesn't mean **** anymore.

Zepher

gears make a huge difference on the car. I dropped .5 seconds going from 3.23 to 3.73 gears when my car was stock with an Auto.

Also, a lot of boosted imports are much better running from a roll than from a stop.

Ragtop-87

I don't think that the check engine lite is coming on from removing the air pump. I have removed mine a long time ago and the check engine lite does not come on. I would run the codes on the lite to find out what it is. The only thing that the air pump does is pump fresh air into the exhaust to improve the emissions.

Runin2Nite

any sugestions about the spray... you think i'll kill it with a150. i met 1 guy who had the same set up and said he sprays his 150 all day no problems. i kinda want to get a 100 tho

onefastgta

You might want to tape the air pump connectors up and away from metal. They can cause a short in the egr, air pump, other sensor circuit and will blow the 10 amp guage fuse under the dash. Ask me how I know.

Try the 50 shot first and get the jetting correct, then try the 75 and get the jetting correct, etc. The out of the box jet sizes are only a starting point.

doug791

THIS IS COPIED FROM TGO IN THE BOTTOM OF THE FAQ SECTION. FIGURE OUT THE CODE AND THEN EITHER LOOK IT UP OR JUST POST THE CODE NUMBER AND WE WILL TELL YOU WHAT IT IS.

Q: How can I display the error codes from a Service Engine Light?

A: If your car does not have the 12 pin DLC connector, you may not be able to manually "flash" your trouble codes. The language "may be possible" appears to suggest that this method should work with most, if not all, 12 pin DLC equipped cars.

THE CONNECTOR


-----------------------
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
| 7 8 9 10 11 12 |
-----------------------


DISPLAYING THE TROUBLE CODES
Run a wire/hairpin from Pin 6 to Pin 12 with the ignition off (although on later cars it should be from Pin 5 to Pin 6), then turning the ignition to the on position without starting the engine will flash the "Service Engine Soon" light in the following sequence: flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause Following this "12" code repeating three times will come any trouble codes stored, flashing each of them three times. If you do not see the "12" flash three times, your diagnostic circuit is defective.
Some vehicles will display stored trouble codes, then "12" again, followed by energizing "most system controlled relays." The fuel pump relay will not energize. The idle air control valve will fully extend to enable checking minimum idle speed.

CLEARING THE TROUBLE CODES
Turn the keyswitch to the off position. To clear any trouble codes, disconnect the power feed for 30 seconds. If this is done at the battery, and your car stereo is equipped and programmed with a four digit pin code, you may have to re-enter that as well to use your stereo again. A better place to remove power is at the fuse.

klumb15

personally i wouldn't run a 150 shot on a 305...start small, work your way up from there...i just installed a nos system with my buddy on his LS1 z28, we started at a 35 shot...which was a good thing, cuz it started jerking violently because of a sensor that wasn't liking it..I think he found out it was his TPS but I'm not sure...if he wouldv'e hit a 100 or 150 the first time, who knows what would've happened...

TPI's aren't good for rolling races, they are holeshot cars....they don't have the high rpm capabilities or the horsepower to keep up with some cars from a roll...they are the best outta the hole, TPI's are torque monsters, I could take anybody outta the hole with my 350 TPI...

klumb15

also i would recommend some 3.73's....they are so fun...your 1st gear will be pretty short, and has so much pep...also a nice like 2500-2800 rpm torque coverter would help you out tons too...

doug791

i didnt like 3.73's with my 700, ya something higher then stock gears is a must, but with 3.73's i was finding when i was racing by 160 km/h i was having to shift into OD which is just no fun. Plus you spin way too high of an rpm on the highway

klumb15

i love 3.73 with my 700r4...the highway rpm isn't too bad....way worse with a th350...i have HSR, so I'm still in 3rd when i finish a 1/4 cuz i use the higher rpms...

2fbodies2NV

It depends on if you want to drag race or road race. Of course a 3.73 or numerically higher gear will help you get to the 1/4 mark faster than a 2.43 or 2.73.
With a numerically lower gear ratio, your car will pull harder at higher speeds. Hence the term "airplane gears".
I have 2.73's in the TA and it still pulls good when the speedo is poking at the voltage gauge. (120 speedo).

Just my .02

klumb15

yea you see a huge difference in top end...i had my needle burried last summer with 2.73's, so i was doing 150+, i know it was dumb, but I had to try it out....now with the 3.73's, it probably tops out at 130 if that, but it gets there helluva lot faster...3.42's are a decent gear also..