Whats up all? I’ve just graduated from college and am eager to finally spend some of my time and money on things that I really enjoy. Namely, building a carb. 350 from scratch with basic street mods and dropping it into a 3rd gen. Camaro.

I’m new to all of this so hopefully you guys will be able to help me out along the way! I feel fairly confident in my ability to choose engine parts and follow assembly instructions for the engine build. But, I do not know what the compatibility is for the installation into the actual car… I haven’t bought one yet, but I want to make sure that my carb. 350 will work with the car. I know that the later 80’s had computer controlled engines and that earlier years did not. I like the styling of the later models but am not sure if the carbed engine is compatible.

So here are the questions that I hope to have some help answering…
1. What ,if any, are my model year limitations for this motor?
2. Will a factory six cylinder car accept this motor?
3. What is the difference between 2 and 4 bolt mains?
4. What recommendations/guidelines for a model year do you have for me to ensure a successful project?

Thanks for any replies . . .

 

1) none really you just want a sbc (small block chevy...thought id expand just encase ) motor

2) yes it will although there are a few things that need to be done. I'm pretty sure the v6 would have a 700-r4 tranny same as the v8's so you should be good there (someone correct me if im wrong). Youll need to do other verious small things like motor mounts but theyre all little things

3) 4 bolt mains are stronger and can handle a lot more hp. You can get a 4 bolt block i believe even from chevy trucks if youre goign to be searching for a block or if your buying a brand new one obviously you can get whatever you want. I know if you do end up with the 2 bolt though you can "splay it" to 4??? i dont completly understand how this is done but i know it can. It will make it so its a lot stronger then the 2 bolt but not as strong as a 4

4) You can get any model year you want it doesnt really matter. The only difference between the computer controlled cars and non computer controlled is that the computer controlled have a lot more wires in the harness but you can just bundle them up somewhere either will work fine with a carb. The only real thing to keep in mind is the rear end. I know most of the 89 and down camaros had the 9 bolt rear end but i think all of the v6 cars may have gotten the 10??? not sure either way the 10 bolt will break at anything over 300 hp and can be beefed up to withstand about 400 hp? not sure how strong the 9 bolts are but i know they are a fair bit stronger the only thing is gears for the internals of those are a lot more expensive then for a 10 bolt

hope those answered most of your questions if you have any more feel free to keep asking and as usual someone pls correct me if i said anything thats not true.

 

I would buy a 1985 to a 1987 Iroc-Z.( without a motor ) That way you stay away from alot of the computer controlled devices. And you would not have to change the gauge cluster( from what i understand ). The motor mounts will bolt up so you will not have to change them. The suspension will not have to be changed.

-William

 

just going to correct doug on a couple things. the 700R4 transmissions from 2.8, 3.1 and 3.8's will NOT work with a V8. a 700R4 needs to be from a 4.3 V6 or any V8. theres a major difference in how the transmissions bolt to the motors.

to get a splayed 4 bolt main you need to have your block taken to a machine shop to get drilled and tapped. the splayed 4 bolts are actually stronger then factory 4 bolt mains. the splayed 4 bolt mains the outside bolts go in at an angle which is stronger because there not holding the main cap on by going straight into the block like factory 4 bolts do.

all 82-92 camaros are computer controlled. you can take care of all the computerized stuff by pulling off the passenger side fender and running all the computer wires into the car and theres a panel on the bottom of the dash you take that off and thats where your computer is. all your ignition wires are run threw the firewall on the driver side.

youll also need a non computer controlled hei dist. you can usually pick them up in jegs or summit for $180 new and in a junkyard for about $25.

i hope this helps you a little bit i just got doing the same exact thing you want to do on an 84 Z28. if you have any other questions ask.

 

Thanks for the relpy so far -

A few posts said in order to take care of the computer devices I should 'bundle them up' or 'run them into the car'. Does this mean that I am simply tucking them out of the way because I no longer need them or what? If anyone could clarify just a bit for me...

What happens to the inst. panel after the conversion? Will lights and things malfunction?

Also, the ECM or computer ,as I understand, is located under the dash on the passenger side; am I to just remove it and send it packing or does any re-programming need be done.

I guess what the bottom line question is - With this new engine am I no longer using the stock computer and completely bypassing it, or do I have to "work with it" to an extent?

Thanks for the help!

 

i should of told you that once you pull the wiring harness back into the car you can just take it out and store it or sell it or whatever you want to do with it.all the lights are run on your ignition harness they will all work properly except the ses light and anything that had to do with your computer. all signal lights, headlights, interior lights, and hazard lights will all work though. as long as you get a 82-87 body to start with you shouldnt have to change anything in the instrument cluster. i believe 88 and newer used electronic speedo's. if they do emissions testing in mich. you might want to find a carbed car so itll have a good chance at passing.

basically theres 3 main wire harness's going into the engine bay. 1 on the driver side for ignition and lights, 1 in the middle of the firewall for heater and ac controlls and 1 that comes threw the side of the firewall on the passenger side and thats the one youll want to get out.