Ok.. I really need help finding gaskets and a rebuild kit that I will be using. I want NO pistons, cam, or lifters in the rebuild set.. and I dont know what I will need in the gasket set. Prolly nothing major.. all I am doing is changing rings, cam, lifters, rockers, pushrods.. I think that is abnout all.
THis is very confusing to me.. THanx all that help,
Matt

 

Just get a Fel-pro complete engine rebuilt gasket set. That has all the gaskets you'll need to rebuild the engine.

 

Already looked into it. It has WAY more gaskets than I will need.. and it has some of the wrong gaskets.

 

Complete gasket kits always include more gaskets than you need. That's so they don't have to make many different kits. Since you're changing rings, you need a full rebuild kit. Required gaskets for a complete rebuild.

Oil pan gasket. Will also include 3 end seals for SBC because there are 2 different front seals. Thick and thin depending on what oil pan is used.
Timing chain cover gasket
2 head gaskets
Intake manifold gaskets and end seals. Throw away the end seals and use silicone.
2 rocker cover gaskets. Usually cheap paper ones.
Distributor gasket
Front crank seal
Rear main seal
Fuel pump mount gasket
Oil drain plug gasket
2 water pump gaskets

A kit may also include factory style valve seals. If your heads haven't been rebuilt since new, you should change the valve seals. Although you may not need all these gaskets, it's always good to have. You could buy all the gaskets you need seperately. Although it will cost more, you can also buy better gaskets than what's in a generic kit.

 

The ones you don't use throw away! lol!

 

So this would be a good buy w/ everything I need?
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...ebuild+gaskets

 

That link is for search results....

and I still say you are nuts for tearing the motor down, reusing your stock pistons, and not having the block machined at all.

- Justin

 

That link was supposed to show you the FelPro gasket set.. found towards the bottom. Are those the right ones?
I dunno.. I have faith in my engine. I think everything will end up being fine w/ the stock pistons and no machine work done.

 

Having faith in your engine is good. If you want to trust your stock pistons, that's fine. What I don't trust is the old, abused cylinder walls and brand new rings. The walls in the block have been shaped to fit the exact wear pattern of the old rings, so new rings won't seat properly. If you go and have the block bored out just a touch (as little as .010 over may be enough, although .020 or .030 is more likely) then get new pistons in the slightly larger size, and have the rods checked out at a machine shop to make sure that none of them have streched or otherwise distorted (often not noticeable to the naked eye).

Do that, and be careful re-assembling the whole thing, and you will have a pretty stout shortblock to use in controling the local rice population.

- Justin

 

When you pull the heads check the ridge at the top of the cylinders if it's rather large,then you should bore an hone.

 

Has anyone actually measured this ridge and come up with "acceptable" numbers? I usually just go by feel....big ridge, going for more than stock power, bore and hone.

- Justin

 

How much for a cheap, but GOOD set of pistons? And from where?
Could I do .010 over myself? What size wold the new pistons have to be after being bored out 10 over?

Hellz yes! I have done a few desktop dyno's myself.. and with all the work I am going to have done, I figure about 304 hp, 350 lb's That is freaking awesome, isn't it? *Ahhh.. 2002 SS.. HERE I COME!*

I have heard of that "ridge" you are talking about.. I am deff. going to look for that when the heads are pulled

Hey Justin and IROCT.. how old are you guys btw?

 

Any ridge at all will need to be removed,but I would say if it is under .10 you could probably get away with just a good honning and maybe oversize rings,but don't quote me on that,just a quess. You can take the ridge off with the engine still in the car if you decide not to pull it,and I doubt you will be doing any boring yourself,that is strickly machine work. Honning you can do at home with a drill and hone,but if you need boring they will take care of that.

 

Well, the engine needs to come out anyways.. it is going to stay in the "barn" for the winter so I can work on it w/out troubel thru winter. I will be honing it w/ the help of an old-skool hot-rodder friend. But what wold I use to measure? A micrometer?

 

Yep!

I believe they are called "Bore micromiters",was looking for a picture of one but can't find one off hand. You probably rent one someplace.