I would like to know how to get to the fuel pump. Take the tank off or is it under the carpet in the rear of the car? Thanks

-Buck

 

drop the tank,and theres a metal ring around the pump at the top of the tank u have to knock around w/ a hammer and screw driver,then it lifts right out.

 

Buck you have to drop the tank.

You'll need to get the exhaust system completely out of the way and you'll want to have the car jacked up in such a way that you're not using the axle to support the car... have subframe connectors or a hydraulic lift?

After that, you need to undo the 3 or 4 rubber lines that go to the sending unit. Unbolt the 2 straps holding it up to the car, and then drop it down. Try to get as much gasoline out of it as possible since it'll be heavier and cumbersone if there is any in there.

Now you have to open the tank, there is a slide ring that you need to tap in a certain direction in order to get the fuel sending unit to come out of the tank. Be careful when you do it, dont want to damage it. TRUST me on that one. Also, use a brass chisel or a friggen brass bolt when you are hammering the slide ring around to get it to pop out. You dont need any stray sparks around a gas tank. Good luck

 

Don't forget to buy a pair of gas tank straps. Very likely that your's are junk by now.

 

Ahhh sucks for you buddy. When I did mine, I had to drop the right side of the rear end to get the tank out. Damn chevy made a solid filler neck instead of a rubber tube, and it was impossible to get out without droping the rear.

 

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/index.html This link says you can cut a acces door for a 4th gen, do yall think it would work for a 3rd also?

-Buck

 

They've gotten to the sending unit, but I don't see how they plan to get it out of the car. The feed lines run all the way to the outer edge of the tank and part way down the wall (shown bellow).

Fuel Tank Sending Unit

 

I don't care what they say. I don't believe that is such a good idea unless you are changing pumps constantly.

 

It is really not that hard to do. Make sure your tank is empty. Fuel is 6 pounds a gallon, and even half a tank is 8 gallons + almost 50 pounds....

 

Yea tell me about it. My brother in law & husband did mine & it was about half full to 3/4s of the way full.

 

You can cut a peice of the hump out to get to it but most people consider it a hack job. It also takes away from the streangth of the car. And you cannot really weld it back in since your right ontop of the fuel tank so you have to glue a piece of metal on there or somthing because if you leave it open you end up with fumes.

 

I'm with "most people" unless you can tell me how that is not a hack job. I have had it with hack job people. IMO, if you are into hack jobs, don't own a car over $1000. I am recovering from a hack job on my newly acquired Vette. There was a "starter disable" button installed that ran 12V to the starter when pressed because the starter relay got fried and melted the relay holder. Horn wires cut because the horn switch went bad and 12V was wired to a cheap buzzer button and into the wires going to the horn. Of course, this bypassed the security system. FX3 and Airbag disabled and the warning lights removed because he was too lazy and stupid to diagnose the problems.

 

I'm not going to guess how they'll get it out, but I'd suggest cutting the solid lines and use Swage-Lok, or AN coupling.

 

Thanks guys. I have up my mind just to take a Saturday and pull the tank out from the bottom ( like it is suppose to be done ). Thanks for the info!!!

-Buck

 

Garage, or concrete pad would be nice.
I put the front on jacks stands ( just to get wheels of the ground,) raised the rear using the frame until the suspension is fully extended (wheels off the ground) blocked the axle to keep it extended then, raised the car higher using a hydraulic floor jack under the rearend housing, placed jack stands under the axles at the highest setting I was comfortable with (3, or 4 teeth.)
I then cut my exhaust pipe on the engine side of the axle leaving enough room for a coupling just before the pipe begins the upward curve over the axle. This allowed the muffle and tips to swing down out of the way.
Caution: the tank must drop out without using force, force will break the solder weld where the filler neck enters the tank, then moister will get into the tank and rust every thing inside, and the injectors will clog.