Hey guys I rebuilt my 350, put a Comp Cam 305, Ported it, honed, crank ground, matched valve lifters everything. I deleted the egr, a.i.r, cruise, air cond, and heat. Had a new chip burned from tpi chips.com for all the specs. Now I put it in and it cranked over and chug......chug.....chug, ok not right so me and my dad were pretty sure it was 180* off. So now we are trying to get it to run, we have tried putting it in different teeth position. So when #1 cyl. is topped and we are at 0* the distributor points right at #1 cylinder, or at #3 or straight. It will start, run and idle ok but as soon as you touch the gas it shuts down. There is some popping when it has fired. Any idea???

 

Posted this in the other "won't start" thread:

Most common reason for no start after rebuild is being 180* out as mentioned before. Fuel getting spit out the carb is classic symptom.


Only way to make sure it's ok is to pull out #1 spark plug, disconnect juice to coil, cover plug hole w/thumb, then have someone bump the starter till you feel compression building in cylinder. At that point align mark on balancer w/timing tab by hand (pull keys out of ignition). Just have to get it close. Eyeball rotor, it should point at #1 wire on cap.


But since yours starts, can't be 180 off. Look at fuel & timing.

 

What would cause it to idle then totally shut off immediatly when i push on the gas?

 

You're retarded! Don't take that the wrong way, by "you're retarded", I mean that your car needs at least 6-8* of initial advance set on the distributor. When you stab the gas and your engine needs 30* of spark advance and you're giving it 22* well... things don't work right. What you need to do is this. Get yourself a Chiltons or Haynes (chiltons is better) and ensure exactly how much initial spark advance you need (because I don't remember what the 90 and later cars need). Then you need to loosen the distributor, and get the car running and idling. Then disconnect the EST wire, should be on the passenger side strut tower on the back side. Its a simple 1 wire plug, can't remember the color of the wires but I think its brown with a black stripe or somthnig. You then need to get a timing light on your balancer. Make sure that you're reading 6* or 8* or whatever the manual calls for while at idle, you can adjust this by turning the distributor. Turning it counterclockwise is advancing the timing and vice versa obviously. Ensure that you are advanced correctly and tighten down the distributor, monitoring the timing mark with your timing light so that you don't move the distributor down to like 4* when aplying pressure to it by tightening the bolt. Once you have it squared away, shut off the car, plug the wire back in, unplug the battery for about 5 minutes to let the computer reset itself from the code you just threw by disconnecting the EST wire. And you should be good to go.

 

I had this problem, my fuel pump was in the process of dying. I doubt thats what YOUR issue is currently but it might be.

 

If the distributor is 180* out it will not idle. Period. It'll "sneeze" out the intake occasionally, but it won't run. Your timing may be off but it's not 180* out if it'll idle. Set initial timing per factory service procedure and that'll at least get you in the ballpark.

 

Just a simple question RedIroc any ways ok that sounds good i'll try that, jeesh.

 

if you thiink he was calling you retarded and are reacting to that you are mistaken,,, he means your timing may be too far retarded and you need to advance it.

 

Yah, I should have explained further. You're timing is too far retarded to start the car. The answer to your problem is that you're too far retarded and therefore the car won't start. No offense meant at all! Just the answer to your question with a little bit of humor thrown in. Have fun! Now go fix it!

 

Wow HAHA thats totally me. i AM retarted, ok.

 

Hey another question, do u guys think that I may have put to big a cam in for a stock plenum, but it's fully ported with a spacer, & just a k&N filter on it. I matched everythin to it valve, springs stuff like that but here's the specs for it:

Comp Cam Computer Controlled
Hydralic roller

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,800
RPM Intake Duration 050 inch Lift: 220
Exhaust Duration 050 inch Lift: 230
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220 int./230 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 276
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 290
Advertised Duration: 276 int./290 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.510
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.510
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.510 int./0.510 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114

I also have nice roller rockers too, The guy I had do my engine said not really an issue but I don't know, i'm running open headers for the time being until I get the exhaust done so it's REALLY loud and sounds nice even without the timing set, nice racy sound.

 

Any Info on the cam selection....