black,

Actually, the LG4 heads are one of 3 casting numbers; 416, 601 or 081 (the last being used only on the 1987 LG4, but also on EVERY LB9 engine ever made from 1987 on). Both the 416s and 601s were used on the L69 305 HO engines. There was nothing special about them. In fact, the 081 LB9 heads differ from the 416 LG4 heads only in where the valve cover bolts are--centre bolts on the 081s and perimeter bolts on the 416s. The 601s have a slightly different shaped combustion chamber but like the 416s have perimeter valve cover bolts.

Those are the ONLY differences, believe it or not.

The only significant difference between the 305 heads and the L98 350 heads is the size of the intake valve; 1.84" vs. 1.94" on the latter. Thus you can take take those $30 junkyard 305 heads and for a grand total of $400 US turn them into the virtual equivelent of a perfect set of factory Vortecs, flow-wise. That price also includes enlarging the intake valve size, new springs, valves and retainers and all machine shop work.

It is the best deal currently known to man on performance heads for the small block Chevy. And you can't beat that with a stick

All that is required of the builder is sweat equity; He must do the porting and polishing himself. And that is easy. All it takes is about 25 hrs. of grinding with a die grinder. Anyone can do it (hell, I did it!), and my thread linked at the end of my sig shows you how.

 

350 heads off of what?

Well.. say I rip the ones off of my Camaro (not buy another set), give them to my machine shop at BOCES, they will do the work for a pizza or possibly 2.. how much will everthing cost then?
I will prolly need a new gasket set, right? Or will Gasket-Maker be good enough to use?

Also, my car smokes a lil bit sometimes.. after you run it for a LONG time will it actually start this light smoke. I have heard that valve-seals could be a possibility.. as well as an oil-return.. would this "oil return" be easy to work w/ since I will be around the head anyways? Do you know which Oil Return I am reffering to? If I get my heads ported, I will need new valves, right? What brand is good, and how much they go for?
Thanx everyone, pariculurly Sitting Bull.. you are helping me A GREAT AMMOUNT! I am so excited to get my Camaro on the road!

 

Don't know how much it will cost if you have a good deal with your machine shop. A lot less than the $400 I quoted you! Yes you will need new gaskets. No, Gasket Maker will not do the trick.

I don't know what the oil return might be. With Chevy heads blue smoke is almost always worn valve guides and/or valve seals. This is fixed when the machine shop rebuilds your heads.

You will almost certainly have to do the porting yourself. It is the way you save the big money. Don't worry, you CAN do it. Just follow my instructions.

I just use regular old stock valves, nothing special at all except enlarging the intake valve to 1.94" and a good three angle valve job.

Your cam choice will be limited to the .460 lift range, unless you have your shop machine the heads and guides for greater lift and wider springs. Since it sound like you get it done for free, have them set your heads up for .550 lift and you'll be ready for a hot 383 when you have the money. Have them pin the rocker studs too, or you'll be pulling the studs out with that great of lift. If you plan to stick with .460 lift you don't need to do anything to the rocker studs.

 

Why not? Can't handle the compression?


Please tell me this is not a joke! If it's not.. I AM SO FREAKIN HAPPY RIGHT NOW! The car has 197k miles on it.. so I thought it might be the rings are shot.. but you are like the 3-person who has told me it is prolly the valve seals.. I will be SOOO happy if it is.. because I can have that fixed in machine shop.

The machine shop instructor is going to talk to the auto-mech teacher to see if mach. shop can do the porting.. I am so nervous, cuz if they can, THOSE DAMNED HEADS WILL BE IN ON MONDAY! lol

Why enlarge the intake valve? Also.. why ONLY do the intake, and not exhaust also?

What is a "three angle valve job"? What is the point/advantages of it? Because I can have Diesel Class take care of the 3-angle job.

What are these? What do they do?

 

O.K I`ll give you the setup I`m building till I get my 383 going

85 305 (LG4)

305 heads w/over sized intake valves (1.94" not the 1.84") minor bowl job and gasket matched. I did the bowl job and gasket matching myself with a dremal (sp?) tool with grinding stones and a cutter bit.

($80 for the heads I bought them off a friend they already had the 1.94" intakes in them)

Performer EGR, Idle-5000rpm gasket matched

($120 used. I have to gasket match it)

Crane 272 H10. Dur. 272. in/ex, lift .454 in/ex, Dur @.050 216 in/ex. 2000-5000rpm, w/ compcams cam lock.

($200 new for the cam and lifter kit+$10 for the cam lock new)

Holley 600cfm carb w/ 1 inch spacer

(Free, I had to buy the rebuild kit. $45 for the rebuild kit)

K&N 14X3 filter

($30 used + $15 for the K&N cleaning kit)

Fel pro 305 gasket kit

($70 new)

Dubble roller timming set

($30 new)

Accel cap and rotor ($30) Coil ($80) taylor 8mm spirl core wires ($100) Accel header plugs ($35)

So about $835 so far + $90 for a rod and main bearing kit. not bad for having about $1800 worth of stuff if i bought it all new. look around and find deals I`ve been collecting parts for a year to do this build up.

(All prices are Canadian)

I should be around 275-300hp? I think, so about LT-1 terrortory. I hope this helps, I noticed some people telling you to get a 350 that happens alot in here, lol, it`d be great if you asked about a 350. I say do your 305 and then start a 350 or 383 to geat real power (400+hp). I`m building a 450hp 383. so my 305 is just going to hold me over till I get the 383 done

 

Wow, great deal you got Chris! Could you find me everything I would need, including oversized valves (not 1.94, maybe a lil smaller) to get my heads going again? I wanna take it into Mech-Tech (aka Machine Shop), and then Diesel Class to finish the job. But I really need help finding everything. And can you try to find CHEAP stuff, lol.. I really am on a TIGHT budget.

Sounds about right to me as well.. since most of the stuff you have done, I am planning on doing sometime in the future as well.

Yes, all the time, lol.. but it doesn't really bother me.. these people are just trying to lead me in the right direction.. but I am REALLY intent on just building up my 305, and seeing what I can get out of it.

Thanx Chris!

 

Head gaskets control some pretty high compression, not to mention temperatures. No form-a-gasket goop I've ever seen will work for that.

Just because Chevy heads are notorious for valve guide and seal leaks DOES NOT mean your rings aren't shot. They may very well be. You should have your shop instructor at school help you do a leak down test on every cylinder. He'll know how to do it, and this will reveal if the rings are too weakly sealing the cylinders.

If that is the case it will be time for a different engine. Sorry

Folks who have put 2.02 intake valves in have found they do not help flow. 1.94 is best with these heads. You can go 1.60 with the exhaust if you like but I never have. It might help.

A three angle valve job increases flow from the bowl to the combustion chamber, thus increasing hp and torque. It simply presents the flow with less obstruction as it moves through the engine, specifically between the valve seat and the valve edge itself.

A buddy named F-Bird'88 from www.thirdgen.org gave me this tip:

"Have your machinist grind a 30 deg seat on the new 1.94" valve and intake valve seat. (The stock angle is 45 deg.) Followed by a 45 and 60 deg under the seat. He'll have lots of room to establish a new 30deg seat. This will have a similar effect as if the valve was being opened a lot quicker within the same seat duration. Old Pontiac motors use this to good results. Do this on the intakes only."

Rocker studs are the threaded studs that the rocker arms fit over and then are held down with a nut. Too much lift via the cam lobe, generally anything more than .460, will cause the stud to pull out. Imagine that push rod revving at 5000 but only have the inside of the valve cover to stop it from flying out of the engine. RAT a TAT TAT until it does poke a hole right through.

 

hey, try looking at the P.A.W ads in hot rod or Chevy high. they sell stuff real cheap or check out jegs. www.pawengineparts.com they have a kit that has a gasket kit, bearing set and rings and a timming set for $138 U.S (god I wish this stuff was this cheap up here lol) and they have s.s.i cam and lifter kits for $80.

for your heads if you keep the 1.84"`s in them you can use the valves over again as long as they arn`t bent. Get the bowl job done on them and gasket match them and a good 3 angle valve job. for your intake I`d go with the Edelbrock Performer. with your edelbrock carb. for your cam I`d stick with one around the same size as mine. paw`s cam kits for $80 has a cam thats 282 dur. and .452 lift dur @ .050 230

now I HIGHLY recommed you rebuilding your bottem end and I`ll tell you why. I wasn`t going to touch the bottem end at all but I thought I should check the bearings so I did and they were shot, so I took all 8 pistons out and the 1st ring was brokin on 5 of the pistons but the engine ran fine last summer. now this is my 1st rebuild, I`ve never done this before and as I write this my 305 is a bare block. beleive me it`s fun as hell doing your 1st engine . If you have any more questions just ask I`m happy to help.

p.s when I get it togher (latest june 1st) and running I`ll make sure I`ll tell you how everything went and how stong she is good luck.

DO NOT. I repeat DO NOT put 350 heads on your 305 the C.R on your 305 is 9.5:1 thats really good, if you put 350 heads on you`ll drop HUGE to around 8.0:1. I have a friend who has a 84 Z28 H.O L69 305 and he put 350 heads on and LOST power.

 

Or a rebuild, which could be had for much cheaper.

Why have you never? Do ya think it would help out any?

Oh, I bet it IS fun.. but I have no money, or time right now. After I find another job, I am planning on doing EVERYTHING to this car.. and all at one time just so it is all outta the way. Headers, hi-perf. brakes, head-work, etc..

But if I take my heads into Machine Shop.. what would absolutely NEED in order to put my heads back on my car, and have my car run? I could keep my gaskets, right? My bolts should be fine.. what else could I possibly need, since the valves, pushrods, etc, will all be reusable.
I want the machine shop to port a bit, and Diesel class will put in new valve seals (where are they, btw?).

 

a 1.60" exshust valve will help but for a 305 it`s not really worth it and since your on a tight bugget I don`t think it would be worth it to you.

for your heads:

you can keep:

Valves (if you don`t enlarge them to 1.94s)
retainers and locks
rocker arms
Bolts

I recommed you change your springs but it`s up to you

you have to replace

ALL gaskets
Valve seals

The valve seals are under the valve spring and are known to dry out and leak on sbc`s

 

If it does require a rebuild, don't do it.

Many people have faced this dilemma and the bottom line economics dictate that you switch to a 350. It will be less expensive to rebuild and will deliver more power.

But don't worry about the heads, they'll work just fine on that rebuilt 350.

 

How many gaskets are there? How much will new ones cost, and from where?

I can get a complete rebuild kit for 200-bucks or so.. can't beat that. Then, after I get some money, I can worry about a 350 or something.

 

It is not simply the cost of the rebuild kit. It is all the extra machine work that must be done on the block. Do it on a 350 and you will be miles ahead.

And a LOT happier.

 

Like what kind of machine work? All I would have to do would be hone the cylanders, right?

 

Wrong.

There is a lot of align honing, overboring, crank turning and block decking that MUST be done for a proper rebuild. Don't waste your time, energy and money on a 305 when you can have a 350 for the same effort.

If the 305 needs rings it is time to change to a 350. Spend $100 or so on a junkyard 350 that needs rebuiding and you will be miles ahead.

That is the bottom line.