Front end shake (VERY BAD!!!)
When I press the brake from about 30mph or faster the whole front end shakes really bad...I have replaced the drag link, pitman arm, and ball joints and its still the same...it feels like the front passenger tire wants to just snap off...anyone have any ideas????
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White 91 Z-28:
Currntly a 305 TPI w/auto car. Y2K Corvette Wheels...looks SWEET
Mods:
Comp Cam, ported plenum and runners, AFPR, air foil, 4.11 gears, Hedman Hedders, and a few other goodies
...soon to have an LS1 and 6-speed!!!
------------------
White 91 Z-28:
Currntly a 305 TPI w/auto car. Y2K Corvette Wheels...looks SWEET

Mods:
Comp Cam, ported plenum and runners, AFPR, air foil, 4.11 gears, Hedman Hedders, and a few other goodies
...soon to have an LS1 and 6-speed!!!
Yep I'm thinking rotors as well.
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Mario,
White 94 Z28
Yeah I got a few mods
Video
Black 87 IROC-Z
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Mario,
White 94 Z28
Yeah I got a few mods
Video
Black 87 IROC-Z
Thats what I was thinking at first but as bad as its shaking I'm starting to wonder if it is the rotors? Anyone think it could be anything else or should I go ahead and turn the rotors?
Thanks,
Adam
PS
Anyone know where I can get some cross drilled rotors fairly cheap?
Thanks,
Adam
PS
Anyone know where I can get some cross drilled rotors fairly cheap?
Rotors would be a good guess but, (I know I'm gonna start something here) stay away from drilled/slotted rotors. With the brake pads in use today you don't need them. They aren't exactly the best for all out braking performance (you will not find them on a NASCAR ride). You want more surface area to dissipate heat away from the calipers. If you have the 4 wheel disc set up you have the PBR rear equipment, upgrade the fronts to maybe Wilwood or Baer which will be better than 1LE stuff. If you are like the rest of us who don't have the water cooled credit cards, upgrade your pads to a better performance pad (I like Performance Friction Carbon Metalics) and upgrade your brake lines to Earls Hyperfirm Braided lines for a better pedal feel and performance. Unless you race your car seriously, the car will stop fine with these mods. I couldn't believe how much better my Z stopped after them. Also, if you haven't done so flush and refill on the fluid is worthwhile maintenance on its own.
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92BLKL98
'92 Black Z28 Hardtop w/Harwood 2" cowl ind. hood Modded 700R4, MSD
Ignition, March Underdrives, TPIS Fastpak, Ram air w/gutted filter box, SLP Prom, Flowmaster, & free mods, removed cats, Amsoil synthetic lubes, CE SFC's, Edelbrock STB,Spohn TA,Roadtech LCA's and Panhard Rod, Energy Susp., PST polygraphite bushings, KYB Shocks.
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92BLKL98
'92 Black Z28 Hardtop w/Harwood 2" cowl ind. hood Modded 700R4, MSD
Ignition, March Underdrives, TPIS Fastpak, Ram air w/gutted filter box, SLP Prom, Flowmaster, & free mods, removed cats, Amsoil synthetic lubes, CE SFC's, Edelbrock STB,Spohn TA,Roadtech LCA's and Panhard Rod, Energy Susp., PST polygraphite bushings, KYB Shocks.
My 89 Formula started to shake when I applied the brakes, getting progressively worse. Then it would do it randomly. And the shakes were getting noisy, sometimes violent. Everything up front seemed ok, but just in case, I was getting ready to replace idler arm.
But first I borrowed the front wheels/tires off my nephews Z28. Problem went away. After dismounting, it was obvious the front left tire had failed, but it wasn't really noticeable from the outside.
[This message has been edited by angel71rs (edited September 02, 2002).]
But first I borrowed the front wheels/tires off my nephews Z28. Problem went away. After dismounting, it was obvious the front left tire had failed, but it wasn't really noticeable from the outside.
[This message has been edited by angel71rs (edited September 02, 2002).]
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