Finally got around to getting the motor off of the Dyno and into the car. Been working on it for the past two months and it's almost ready for the track. Just wanted to show off my hard work. Here's the rundown. Pulled out the L98 to drop in the 383. Got rid of the TPI. Whole wiring harness and all. No more heat, a/c, power steering. Pulled out the stock gauge cluster for a custom made panel with all autometers. I re-used my 3000 stall convertor, I know I'm going to need more but it'll do for now, also working on putting together a 4.10 rear for the car. Looking to get a 12.30-12.50 out of it with all the bugs worked out of it. The motor made 430hp/470tq @ the flywheel.

4 bolt roller block
Eagle crank/rods, custom pistons, 10.2:1
ARP Bolts/studs
File fit rings
Cloyes hex a just timing set
Custom ISKY cam, it's small
AFR 195's with hand done chambers, flowed 265 peak @ .550"
5 angle valve job
Manley SS valves
ARP Rocker Studs
Harlan Sharp 1.6 rockers
RPM Air Gap intake
Holley 650 DP carb
MSD Pro Billet Dist
MSD Blaster SS coil
MSD 6AL
Moroso Blue Max cut to fit wires
NGK plugs
Custom 4 corner cooling
Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump
Aeromotive regulator

 

Right on man,sounds like it should run pretty good.

Good luck on a fast and a trouble-free finish

 

Congrats on the build. If your cam is "mild" as you say you'll have a nice combo. Given the HP and torque it probably is fairly modest and that'll be a good match for the converter. Also, good heads do amazing things for mild cams. Little cam keeps torque fat while the good flowing heads "stretch" the usable powerband up top. It's a great way to build a street-driven engine. I think you'll have no problem hitting mid-low 12s with some traction.

BTW- the motor looks like a million bucks. Very clean and simple look to it.

 

Thanks guys.

I'm trying to get it to the track sometime soon before they close, just to make some shakedown runs. It's not gonna pull any crazy ET, it needs more convertor and gear but I could use the seat time, haven't raced in a year now.

The cam isn't crazy small, low 220's duration wise and around .520" lift @ .050". I built a nearly identical motor for a customer, but it had 6" rods and a 236/242 cam and it made 520 and he runs 11.40's in a 3500 lb. Nova.

 

NastyTA- I was wondering If I could get some more pics of your entire engine bay, I just want to get a feel for what you are still using and what you got rid of, and I want to see how much room is left and where you placed things. Also, I noticed there's almost no wires in the engine bay anymore. Did you get rid of all your electronics too?

 

Very cool setup, I was tempted to just pitch the TPI on my old bird and go the carbed route, tuning would have probably been alot easier.

 

Sure, I'll have to dig some up. I pretty much pulled out everything under the hood wiring wise and ran all of my own. Whatever is there is hidden. Most is running inside the passengers side fender and through the door jamb into the fuse block that I made on the inside of the firewall. I've got all autometer gauges so I just ran the sender wires to them individually. I'm running an MSD6al and a pro billet distributor so that takes care of all the ignition system. The plug wires are run under the headers to hide them. Pretty much the only wiring under the hood are the battery cables, everything else is under the dash to hide it.

They're kinda dark, but you get the idea

 

wow looks really nice and should run like a beast

I see that you took out the A/C stuff on the firewall, I bet that cleared up a ton of space back there. I remember when I took out all of the electronics in my Z it made everything look so much neater under the hood. But that A/C box gave me more problems trying to get to the last spark plug and header bolt than just about anything else on the car.

any pics of your gauge setup? I love seeing people put together their own gauge clusters, really adds personal style to the car.

 

Yeah, I have some of the gauges. I was on my own on that deal. No one makes a panel and the ones that I had seen done over on thirdgen.org were, well, less than pleasing. Took me a full afternoon to get it where I want it but it's worth it. It's still got some emty holes until I get my oil temp and speedometer, but you get the idea. I pretty much just hollowed out the factory bezel and made a panel to go in place of it that the gauges fit into. The entire assembly installs just like the factory bezel. Also used a 12 pin weatherpack connector so it unplugs from the dash if I ever need to take it out

Here's the panel by itself, and then the panel epoxied to the factory bezel.




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wow that looks really nice

i had seen preassembled clusters somewhere on the net but they wanted like $300 without any gauges and they were arranged really awkwardly

 

very clean work.carbed 3d gens look so good.Give that thing another 100cfm of carb man!

 

Definately doesn't need anymore air, trust me. I've argued it dozens of times with the boneheads on TGO. Actually did some dyno testing this week at work that proved my point. Same deal with big headers, bigger isn't better in most cases. That's why I'm over here more often now. I got tired of TGO.

Jayman; the clusters you've seen are probably for the thirdgen Camaro's.

 

TGO is mostly people eager to jump on the bandwagon for the opinion of 5 or 6 "gurus" whose word is god.that said there are some very knowledgeable people with good combos there, they are just few and far between.
but THAT said, a put a 750 on it at the track, you will pick up ETs.If you have a 355 with those heads and a 22x and .550 cam, and you are losing power with a 750, you need to work your pump cams, air bleeds and jets.Not that a 650 wont work--but it wont kill ya like you said if you set it up right.as far as more exhaust, i needed 1 7/8 longtubes a long time ago, but i run 3/4 length 1 3/4 for streetability reasons, its really not that big of a difference, so i guess i understand your point on the 650 if thats how you tuned it..either way its a sweet looking setup.props.

 

yeah u should run bottom 12's with that combo, given a good 60 foot time.

looks good man, curious what were the hp, and tq curves peak at?


any dyno sheet u can scan on? that little duration cam with the AFR's are a good choice. BTW, they flowed 265cfm as cast?

 

NastyTA- Would you mind telling me if that tach is 3 3/8" or 5"? I'm sorta building my own cluster and I want to get a feel for what certain sizes look like. Those are the Ultra lite gauge right? I'm planning on running the Phantom gauges myself.