Engine Swap Troubles
please please, i need every bit of info i can get. Thanks man you have helped out alot. i was gonna do that but didn't know if it would work cause of hte pump inline inside the tank
so i can disconnect the wires that run to intank pump now.
so i can disconnect the wires that run to intank pump now.
i have been there and know how it is glad i could help
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...09#post1282409
thats where my car is i have done more since the pics
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...09#post1282409
thats where my car is i have done more since the pics
Don't go to a mechanical pump. It's more trouble than it's worth and the in-tank pump WILL become a restriction and kill your fuel delivery at higher RPM if you start making serious power. You can very easily use the in-tank TBI pump with a carb, I should know as I've been driving mine to work every day like that for the last 3 or 4 years.
All you have to do is splice into the tan wire in the fuel pump harness (either at the relay or under the carpet behind the back seat) and feed it power from the "IGN" terminal on the fuse box. Plumb in a regulator that uses a return port (Mallory 3-port is excellent for this,) and use a FP gauge to set it at whatever the carb manufacturer recommends (6-9psi for most, my Edelbrock likes 5.5psi.) It won't hurt the pump to run all the time as the fuel flowing through it keeps it cool.
All you have to do is splice into the tan wire in the fuel pump harness (either at the relay or under the carpet behind the back seat) and feed it power from the "IGN" terminal on the fuse box. Plumb in a regulator that uses a return port (Mallory 3-port is excellent for this,) and use a FP gauge to set it at whatever the carb manufacturer recommends (6-9psi for most, my Edelbrock likes 5.5psi.) It won't hurt the pump to run all the time as the fuel flowing through it keeps it cool.
I have taken some pictures for you to look at, TheGreatJ, cause i'm lost. you said there is a tan wire in the set of wires for the fuel pump but did see a tan wire, just Gray, purple and black(See Picture) also there is a picture of where I think your talking about is that the right location. And where on the fuseblock is it ok to connected the spliced wire to? ACC's fuse slot of the wire behind it, or the ING fuse slot or the wire behind it? Also i took a picture of the Fuel Pump relay (ie. F.P.), is this is and is it the right location, if so i dont think i saw a tan wire there either. Plaese look at the pictures and clarify. Thanks.
Last edited by Josh2002z28; Nov 5, 2003 at 05:02 PM.
GreatJ, nice looking car bro. I noticed you dont have a mess of wires and stuff in your engine bay, you think you can help me there to? the Only wires i need is power acc andwires for my Be Cool rad/fan kit. Plus what did you do with all the water hose off to the side of the engine(passenger side) i got confused as to where they all went back to, especially after i put in my after market rad./fan kit that did need all them hoses? d1nutz@hotmail.com i think we need to chat, plz and thanks
Yea, that line in the back seat in the first picture, with the tan/purp/blk wires running behind the rear seats...the tan one SEEMS to give power to the pump, however when I hit the brakes, the power cuts out to zero. The purple one I think is the fuel gauge line. My fuel is all messed up, its obvious now that my car has had it's electrical system messed with before. The tan wires at SOME point powers MY pump, but it isn't the DIRECT power to my pump.
the problem is there is no tan wires in that set that you are talking about. I dont want to start cutting up wires and screw my system up. But yeah if what you saying is right then someone has messed with your wires and thats what i dont want to do.
the purple and black wires are for the fuel guage if u have a hayes manual look at every thing in the back of the book itz ur electrical and will help u if u want to keep ur electric pump but i have a mechanical pump and the electric pump is still in my tank and i dont have restriction at high rpms
On the fuse box, the "IGN" terminal in the bottom left corner is your best bet. Just use a blade connector to run a wire from it, and use a 10 amp inline fuse if you want. In the fuel pump harness (which is indeed the one in that first pic) use the gray wire. Just cut it and splice into the end that goes through the floorpan, and leave the other 2 alone (so your gauge will work.) GM must have changed colors in mid-91 (they made some other changes then,) because I've seen both gray and tan wires for the pump.
The relay pic shows the radiator fan relay and fuel pump relay IIRC. It's been a long time since my wiring was stock so I'm not entirely sure on that.
The hoses on the passenger side are mostly for heater control. The plastic valve right above the intake is the heater control valve, which controls the amount of coolant flowing through the heater core. There should be 3 large hoses coming off it...one to the front of the intake, one back to the heater core, and one down to the middle of the metal line that runs up the pass. side frame rail. The back of the metal line connects to the other port of the heater core, and the front returns coolant to the radiator. The vacuum line coming off the valve goes to the climate control panel in the dash. Any other large hoses are for the air pump system. Since my car is fair-weather-only (I drive my truck when it's cold/wet) I eliminated the heating and A/C entirely. I simply plugged off the heater hose ports, and yanked everything else out. In some of my older pics the heater core is still in the car, but setup for full flow (no control valve....coolant flows through it all the time.)
The reason my engine bay has little wiring is simple. When I converted from TBI to carb, I basically stripped all the wiring out of the engine bay and only put back in what I needed. This consists of: dist power and tach signal, oil pressure sender wires, starter cable (battery is in the spare tire well,) alternator wires, temp sender wire, radiator fan power wire, and the headlight harness. I later added a few things (rev limiter, heated O2 for the A/F gauge, alarm speaker, etc.) I tried to keep the wiring concealed as much as possible, so most of it is under the brake booster and running down the driver's side frame rail. All the relays and the power distribution circuits are behind the pass. side of the dash where the vent ducts used to be. Now the engine bay is nice and clean, but behind the dash is a wiring NIGHTMARE.
The relay pic shows the radiator fan relay and fuel pump relay IIRC. It's been a long time since my wiring was stock so I'm not entirely sure on that.
The hoses on the passenger side are mostly for heater control. The plastic valve right above the intake is the heater control valve, which controls the amount of coolant flowing through the heater core. There should be 3 large hoses coming off it...one to the front of the intake, one back to the heater core, and one down to the middle of the metal line that runs up the pass. side frame rail. The back of the metal line connects to the other port of the heater core, and the front returns coolant to the radiator. The vacuum line coming off the valve goes to the climate control panel in the dash. Any other large hoses are for the air pump system. Since my car is fair-weather-only (I drive my truck when it's cold/wet) I eliminated the heating and A/C entirely. I simply plugged off the heater hose ports, and yanked everything else out. In some of my older pics the heater core is still in the car, but setup for full flow (no control valve....coolant flows through it all the time.)
The reason my engine bay has little wiring is simple. When I converted from TBI to carb, I basically stripped all the wiring out of the engine bay and only put back in what I needed. This consists of: dist power and tach signal, oil pressure sender wires, starter cable (battery is in the spare tire well,) alternator wires, temp sender wire, radiator fan power wire, and the headlight harness. I later added a few things (rev limiter, heated O2 for the A/F gauge, alarm speaker, etc.) I tried to keep the wiring concealed as much as possible, so most of it is under the brake booster and running down the driver's side frame rail. All the relays and the power distribution circuits are behind the pass. side of the dash where the vent ducts used to be. Now the engine bay is nice and clean, but behind the dash is a wiring NIGHTMARE.
How much did you pay for the Be Cool setup Josh? Also is it a single or dual fans? Did it fit right in or did you have to do some hacking? My radiator is one of the few stock pieces left in my car and I doubt it will last through the winter. TIA....
i got it through www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com. i think i paid $1099 +tax. I've had for a look time now. Its a dual fan, and rad fits fine but its a tight fit but mine sits in pretty. I think its one size bigger than the stock on, but i'm not sure as i dont remember how big the original one looked. It comes with all the wires and relays and a temp sensor switch. On the relay, the orange wire, where would you put it? This wire is set up to give power through the relay and turn the fan on when sensor says its time. But what would you connect it to, to make this work?
Last edited by Josh2002z28; Nov 5, 2003 at 07:46 PM.
Run it straight off the battery, through about a 25 or 30 amp fuse.
Basically, you hook the 2 big wires on the relay (contact connections) to the battery and the fan, and the other fan wire to ground. Then you hook the 2 small relay wires (coil connections) to ignition power (same as your fuel pump) and the temp sensor (doesn't matter which is which...the relay will work either way.) This way the sensor will ground the coil and turn the relay (and thusly the fans) on when it gets up to temp, but only if the ignition switch is on. This is assuming a 1-wire temp sensor.....if it's a 2-wire sensor then you can just ground the other sensor wire and it'll work the same.
When you get it working let it warm up and make sure the fans come on, and make sure they move air the right way. If the air moves backwards you have the fan motor wires backwards.
Basically, you hook the 2 big wires on the relay (contact connections) to the battery and the fan, and the other fan wire to ground. Then you hook the 2 small relay wires (coil connections) to ignition power (same as your fuel pump) and the temp sensor (doesn't matter which is which...the relay will work either way.) This way the sensor will ground the coil and turn the relay (and thusly the fans) on when it gets up to temp, but only if the ignition switch is on. This is assuming a 1-wire temp sensor.....if it's a 2-wire sensor then you can just ground the other sensor wire and it'll work the same.
When you get it working let it warm up and make sure the fans come on, and make sure they move air the right way. If the air moves backwards you have the fan motor wires backwards.
the relays come preset with the wires coming out of them(there are 2 relays, one for each fan) i posted the relays up close to the passenger side firewall and made my connections as per the instructions. i made the connection already for the battery(with fuse) but you are saying to put both the red(power wire) and orange wire on the battery? The orange is used to complete a circuit when the ignition is in the ON position. so my question is where would be a good place to put it? Can i connect it to the same place as where i put the Gray wire fo rthe Fuel pump issue i had?
Last edited by Josh2002z28; Nov 5, 2003 at 10:01 PM.


