A friend of mine has an 88' 5.7 tpi that stalls when he puts the car in gear. the only way to keep it runing is to put the idle screw high. Anybody have a clue or had this happen? if so wht was the solution? NO Codes! I think the car needs a few things so nothing would suprise me.

Thanks!


T

 

I would suggest putting a scanner on it to see what the ecm is seeing. Just becaus there isn't a check engine light doesn't mean there isn't a problem with the motor.

Keep in mind, it may not be the motor. I have seen transmission problems do things like that.

 

Yeah sometimes the check engine light don't work due to a bad bulb... so check for codes anyway...

 

Is it idling rough? Let us know. In the mean time, I would check fuel pressure if there truely is no trouble code stored. Theres a chance that your A/F ratio is way off giving your engine no power. Also, I'm not an expert on transmissions or anything, but this sounds like what would happen if you had a manual tranny and just dumped the clutch with no throttle. Maybe your torque converter (automatic clutch equivalent) is bad?

 

have u checked your iac? if your idle air control valve is stuck, it may give enough for an idle w/o load, and once u give it a load (put it in gear) it stalls

 

I just posted a reply to someone about setting the throttle set screw and suggested the IAC as well. It might not be that it is stuck as the previous poster mentioned but rather that it and the bypass port arount the butterflies needs cleaned with card and choke cleaner.

So I agree with the previous poster. Check you IAC.

If you are interested in this other thread, I think this will do it.

His problems sounds very close to yours.

My problem was described in my poster there so I won't bother putting it here too.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388005

 

hi have the car with the problem, a freind of mine started the post. Its good to have one of these cars again but they are a piain when theres trouble. this is what haooens if i disconnect the est wire for the timing the car runs great no stalling idles is perfect. but no vacum advance so no gas mileage and loss of power. everything has been checked. as soon as it reachs 180 degess the all hell breaks loose the car will not idle. it will start right up idle for a second the gradually will die usually the first time its trying to die the ecm will catch it and it will idle very breifly the you will see the rpm die down in steps once it reaches 500 rpm or so its dead it will do this every time i have . you could time this with a watch and every it will happen the same way. tried new sensors and ecm

 

if it was the iac why would it malfunction after the car was warmed up?...has the maf been checked? swapped out for another...mine would cut off at stop lights if the idle wasnt up when the maf was bad

 

I don't know why being cold or warm would affect the IAC but that is what fixed the problem and I had tried numerous things.

All it needed was cleaning and it worked. Both the valve and the passageway. I opted to put a brand new one in since it only cost $40.

I had tried your suggestion to swap in a new MAF. New MAF = $350. Electrical parts = not returnable.

IAC = $40.

Wish I had tried it first.

BTW, I have a practically new MAF for a 1986 Iroc-Z 305 TPI if someone is interested in making an offer. Only used for about twenty minutes and then I put the old one back in since that wasn't the problem.

I had planned to try to return it but that was when I found out that they don't take back used electrical parts.