I want to build up a 350 (or a 383) to replace my crappy, good for nothing, LO3. I want to stick with TBI because that means less messing with the computer and keeping my stock wiring harness. I am only looking for around 300-320hp, nothing mind blowing and it would be nice if it would rev up to 6 grand. I am new to building motors so I have a few questions.

1. I need to stay emmisions and inspection legal so I need to keep 1all the air pipes and such. Which 350 blocks can I use that will have all the nessicary sensor holes and such?

2. I need to keep cost down so I was thinking about getting a used set of heads and maybe just porting them. Are 350 TPI heads a good basis to start on? Also, my car is an 88 so I think I would have to get 87+ heads.

3. Should I stick with 350 or should I get the 400 crank to make it a 383? Does this cause more tuning problems?

4. I have heard of people running the LT1 cam with the stock 305 TBI, but I don't know what to use for this preposed motor. I want something I can drive on the street everyday and not have to stop for gas every 2 miles.

5. I was thinking of getting the 2" bored out TBI and a matching 2" intake. Will this be able to feed the motor for the 300 or so hp I am looking for?

Sorry for such a long post but I am kinda pissed cuz my car is so slow. I want to get the block so I can at least see it in the garage and know hope is coming. I don't have tons of money to drop on it at one time, it would be some here and some there.

Thanks for your input

 

1. Any 350 block other than LT1 LT4 or LSx will work. All the sensors are in the parts that connect to the block.

2. You need to determine the static compression ratio you want before you pick the heads. They will probably be a bit older if you want some that make power, but any used heads will required inspection, and machine work to make sure they are straight and leak free. After all of that the difference between new and used heads may not be very much in price.

3. To make a 383 you need a 400 crank. The snout willhave to be turned down to fit into the 350 block. Your machinist will know what that is about. You might do better looking at a new crank. I think Scat has some for less than $300.

4. Your cam choice is dependent on most of the other parts of the engine, and the rev range you intend to use with your transmission and rear end gear ratio. If you get heads and cam that make power up high, but your driving style doesn't put you in that rev range you are going to be very disappointed. Figure out how you are going to drive the car (city streets, highway, drag race, autocross, road race, any combination therein) and plane for the most usable range you can. If you are going to be hanging out and not doing a lot of racing you probably want a high torque low rpm engine in which case the LT1 cam may not be the best bet.

5. The TBI can be modified to make more power. Don't know about the specific mods you mention. THey do sound like they will change how the engine breathes enough to warrant a change in the stock computer parameters.

Get the block and do some reading. $16-$20 bucks on a book and you can learn quite a bit that will help you make some solid choices and know why you are choosing them. Otherwise your best guess is gonna be hearsay and rumor without much substance to support it.

Hope that helps.

Jason

 

Thanks for the help man. Yea I need to find a block locally for cheap and then get it machined.

 

You might check with the local speed shops. Sometimes they have one where the guy couldn't wouldn't finish the project and they want to get their machine costs out of it. Plus it will already be prepped for your go fast parts.

Jason

 

Alright sounds like a good idea. I am also gonna check the local junkyards. My last resort would be a block off ebay.

 

Get the builder to supply the block. A block core is not that much. That way if something goes wrong, it is not your fault. You bring me a block and I use it and later you have a problem with the block, do you think I will warranty anything? That is unless you pay me to sonic check the block for core shift, magnaflux it, pressure test it, etc. This is just like the customer who brings his own parts to a garage. Mechanic installs it and if the part fails, you pay it all over again. Of course, I would have to prove that it is not my part that failed and it was his workmanship that was in question. Why hassle with that for a couple hundered dollars? I use the mechanic's parts and if it fails, it is all him.

 

Will any local builder have blocks they can get?? I am kind of on a budget but I understand what you are saying about warrenty type deals.

 

Not if you want some rare block out of a Model A Ford. however, a Chevy 350 you should be able to get for a couple hundred bucks.

 

My problem is saving up that much money at one time. lol. If i just get $300-$500 parts at a time I can slowly get it all together. Plus I think it would be fun to build it up completely myself.

 

In my neck of the woods I know where there are 4 whole allegedly running 350 engines for $350 each. You may not be as far away you think.

 

Where do you live? lol

 

Indiana just outside Chicago

 

Not sure if you know this or not, but you're going to have to do some more things to get the car to run right. Since you're going with a 350, your going to need a 350 knock sensor, 350 ESC module, 350 injectors, and a 350 PROM/chip (from 350 TBI Caprices). And if you're going with a 383, you're going to need to do some serious PROM burning. You will actually probably need to burn your own PROMs for the 350 so it can run at it's best (or find someone to burn them for you).

If you already knew this, sorry, I just wanted to make sure you knew.

 

Yea I knew about the knock sensor but I forgot about the ESC module. There is a local speed shop that burned a chip for my friend when he swapped over to a 350 so I am gonna have them do it. Thanks for the reminder though.

 

the knock sensor for the 305 and 350 is the same.