Dumb Cam Question
Dumb Cam Question
Ok so I have a 90 305tpi automatic, I was going for a lt1 cam swap but I need something a little more agressive.
Comp cams
Grind: 252H
Lift: .425''
RPM Range: 800-4800
Thats the rpm range I need right?
I don't wan't something wild, and the car is mostly stock with headers and exhaust. Gonna run 3.42 gears.
Comp cams
Grind: 252H
Lift: .425''
RPM Range: 800-4800
Thats the rpm range I need right?
I don't wan't something wild, and the car is mostly stock with headers and exhaust. Gonna run 3.42 gears.
That's not the cam you want.
That is a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Your vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic roller cam. While the flat tappet will work, you are better off going with the roller for several reasons. Besides, that's an ancient grind
Your better off going with Comp Cams CCA-08-300-8 (Summit Racing part number). That is the hydraulic roller you want, AND is specifically designed for a computer controlled stock TPI and torque converter car. It's a very livable cam, is 100% emissions legal, and will work quite well. Specs out at .450" intake and .480" exhaust with an advertised powerband of 1000 to 5000 RPM.
Be warned though, it is twice the cost as the other cam. But, you get what you pay for.
EDIT: One more thing to note. Don't change your cam without replacing the valvesprings too!!!!
That is a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Your vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic roller cam. While the flat tappet will work, you are better off going with the roller for several reasons. Besides, that's an ancient grind

Your better off going with Comp Cams CCA-08-300-8 (Summit Racing part number). That is the hydraulic roller you want, AND is specifically designed for a computer controlled stock TPI and torque converter car. It's a very livable cam, is 100% emissions legal, and will work quite well. Specs out at .450" intake and .480" exhaust with an advertised powerband of 1000 to 5000 RPM.
Be warned though, it is twice the cost as the other cam. But, you get what you pay for.
EDIT: One more thing to note. Don't change your cam without replacing the valvesprings too!!!!
Last edited by Marc 85Z28; May 8, 2003 at 04:50 PM.
I'd go for the intakes first. No point having a high lift cam and not have the intake to flow it to the valves. After that, I'd go with an Accel 74219 camshaft and change the valve springs. You'd probably have to have an EPROM burnt for it to optimize the setup. I highly recommend www.fasterproms.com for a truely custom chip not an off the shelf one.
Originally posted by aklim
I'd go for the intakes first. No point having a high lift cam and not have the intake to flow it to the valves. After that, I'd go with an Accel 74219 camshaft and change the valve springs. You'd probably have to have an EPROM burnt for it to optimize the setup. I highly recommend www.fasterproms.com for a truely custom chip not an off the shelf one.
I'd go for the intakes first. No point having a high lift cam and not have the intake to flow it to the valves. After that, I'd go with an Accel 74219 camshaft and change the valve springs. You'd probably have to have an EPROM burnt for it to optimize the setup. I highly recommend www.fasterproms.com for a truely custom chip not an off the shelf one.
Originally posted by 1990Iroc_Z
what kind of real world hp gains can I expect from just swapping in that cam?
what kind of real world hp gains can I expect from just swapping in that cam?
Originally posted by Marc 85Z28
That's not the cam you want.
That is a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Your vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic roller cam. While the flat tappet will work, you are better off going with the roller for several reasons. Besides, that's an ancient grind
Your better off going with Comp Cams CCA-08-300-8 (Summit Racing part number). That is the hydraulic roller you want, AND is specifically designed for a computer controlled stock TPI and torque converter car. It's a very livable cam, is 100% emissions legal, and will work quite well. Specs out at .450" intake and .480" exhaust with an advertised powerband of 1000 to 5000 RPM.
Be warned though, it is twice the cost as the other cam. But, you get what you pay for.
EDIT: One more thing to note. Don't change your cam without replacing the valvesprings too!!!!
That's not the cam you want.
That is a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Your vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic roller cam. While the flat tappet will work, you are better off going with the roller for several reasons. Besides, that's an ancient grind

Your better off going with Comp Cams CCA-08-300-8 (Summit Racing part number). That is the hydraulic roller you want, AND is specifically designed for a computer controlled stock TPI and torque converter car. It's a very livable cam, is 100% emissions legal, and will work quite well. Specs out at .450" intake and .480" exhaust with an advertised powerband of 1000 to 5000 RPM.
Be warned though, it is twice the cost as the other cam. But, you get what you pay for.
EDIT: One more thing to note. Don't change your cam without replacing the valvesprings too!!!!
.480 is asking for trouble, IMHO.
I would stick with the LT1 cam.
By the way, there are NO stupid questions on this forum. We are ALL here to learn from each other. And you are as good as the next person in these parts
Last edited by Sitting Bull; May 15, 2003 at 04:01 AM.
yeah thanx sitting bull- i was just gonna mention it... above about 450 lift, your run into several problems with the heads...
spring dimaters that you can fit in the stock spring pockets aren't generally made for any more lift that aforementioned.
secondly, in higher lift situations, the pushrods can contact the heads in the area where they go though. The more lift, the closer the pushrod gets pulled towards the valve. the holes have to be ground out to make room for bigger cams.
My recommendation for a cam would be something along the lines of a powermax2031 or so...
spring dimaters that you can fit in the stock spring pockets aren't generally made for any more lift that aforementioned.
secondly, in higher lift situations, the pushrods can contact the heads in the area where they go though. The more lift, the closer the pushrod gets pulled towards the valve. the holes have to be ground out to make room for bigger cams.
My recommendation for a cam would be something along the lines of a powermax2031 or so...
Originally posted by Sitting Bull
SAFE lift for stock heads is about .460 MAXIMUM!
.480 is asking for trouble, IMHO.
I would stick with the LT1 cam.
By the way, there are NO stupid questions on this forum. We are ALL here to learn from each other. And you are as good as the next person in these parts
SAFE lift for stock heads is about .460 MAXIMUM!
.480 is asking for trouble, IMHO.
I would stick with the LT1 cam.
By the way, there are NO stupid questions on this forum. We are ALL here to learn from each other. And you are as good as the next person in these parts
I'm talking on behalf of 20 years of engine building experiance... lets put it this way- i have a cam in my 305 that runs 420ish lift...
Its verrryyy close to hittin the guide holes... so close infact, i cannot run 1.6 rockers...
i agree, an lt1 cam would be a good choice.
Its verrryyy close to hittin the guide holes... so close infact, i cannot run 1.6 rockers...
i agree, an lt1 cam would be a good choice.


