3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

Dumb Cam Question

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Old May 8, 2003 | 04:35 PM
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1990Iroc_Z's Avatar
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Dumb Cam Question

Ok so I have a 90 305tpi automatic, I was going for a lt1 cam swap but I need something a little more agressive.
Comp cams

Grind: 252H
Lift: .425''
RPM Range: 800-4800

Thats the rpm range I need right?

I don't wan't something wild, and the car is mostly stock with headers and exhaust. Gonna run 3.42 gears.
Old May 8, 2003 | 04:46 PM
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That's not the cam you want.

That is a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Your vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic roller cam. While the flat tappet will work, you are better off going with the roller for several reasons. Besides, that's an ancient grind

Your better off going with Comp Cams CCA-08-300-8 (Summit Racing part number). That is the hydraulic roller you want, AND is specifically designed for a computer controlled stock TPI and torque converter car. It's a very livable cam, is 100% emissions legal, and will work quite well. Specs out at .450" intake and .480" exhaust with an advertised powerband of 1000 to 5000 RPM.

Be warned though, it is twice the cost as the other cam. But, you get what you pay for.

EDIT: One more thing to note. Don't change your cam without replacing the valvesprings too!!!!

Last edited by Marc 85Z28; May 8, 2003 at 04:50 PM.
Old May 8, 2003 | 04:54 PM
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Thanks I knew it was a dumb question, you saved me a couple of "hp" to say the least.
Old May 8, 2003 | 08:57 PM
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I'd go for the intakes first. No point having a high lift cam and not have the intake to flow it to the valves. After that, I'd go with an Accel 74219 camshaft and change the valve springs. You'd probably have to have an EPROM burnt for it to optimize the setup. I highly recommend www.fasterproms.com for a truely custom chip not an off the shelf one.
Old May 10, 2003 | 03:45 PM
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Originally posted by aklim
I'd go for the intakes first. No point having a high lift cam and not have the intake to flow it to the valves. After that, I'd go with an Accel 74219 camshaft and change the valve springs. You'd probably have to have an EPROM burnt for it to optimize the setup. I highly recommend www.fasterproms.com for a truely custom chip not an off the shelf one.
Whatever. I know several guys running stock TPI runners and lower manifold that are well into the 12s. The TPI is not THAT bad.
Old May 10, 2003 | 07:45 PM
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Originally posted by Marc 85Z28
Whatever. I know several guys running stock TPI runners and lower manifold that are well into the 12s. The TPI is not THAT bad.
I DO!!!!
Old May 11, 2003 | 01:16 AM
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TPI is better then people think.. only reason i would see opening the intake is if the exhaust is going to be open and the intake and heads as well as cam are being replaced for a 400+hp setup
Old May 14, 2003 | 10:28 PM
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1990Iroc_Z's Avatar
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what kind of real world hp gains can I expect from just swapping in that cam?
Old May 15, 2003 | 02:18 AM
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Originally posted by 1990Iroc_Z
what kind of real world hp gains can I expect from just swapping in that cam?
a cam swap with sufficient gaines would take upgraded valve springs and components.. that alone could get you possibly 30hp without needing more things upgraded. Just my uneducated .02 though.
Old May 15, 2003 | 03:23 AM
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Originally posted by Marc 85Z28
That's not the cam you want.

That is a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Your vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic roller cam. While the flat tappet will work, you are better off going with the roller for several reasons. Besides, that's an ancient grind

Your better off going with Comp Cams CCA-08-300-8 (Summit Racing part number). That is the hydraulic roller you want, AND is specifically designed for a computer controlled stock TPI and torque converter car. It's a very livable cam, is 100% emissions legal, and will work quite well. Specs out at .450" intake and .480" exhaust with an advertised powerband of 1000 to 5000 RPM.

Be warned though, it is twice the cost as the other cam. But, you get what you pay for.

EDIT: One more thing to note. Don't change your cam without replacing the valvesprings too!!!!
SAFE lift for stock heads is about .460 MAXIMUM!

.480 is asking for trouble, IMHO.

I would stick with the LT1 cam.

By the way, there are NO stupid questions on this forum. We are ALL here to learn from each other. And you are as good as the next person in these parts

Last edited by Sitting Bull; May 15, 2003 at 04:01 AM.
Old May 15, 2003 | 10:19 AM
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yeah thanx sitting bull- i was just gonna mention it... above about 450 lift, your run into several problems with the heads...

spring dimaters that you can fit in the stock spring pockets aren't generally made for any more lift that aforementioned.

secondly, in higher lift situations, the pushrods can contact the heads in the area where they go though. The more lift, the closer the pushrod gets pulled towards the valve. the holes have to be ground out to make room for bigger cams.

My recommendation for a cam would be something along the lines of a powermax2031 or so...
Old May 15, 2003 | 06:00 PM
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Originally posted by Sitting Bull
SAFE lift for stock heads is about .460 MAXIMUM!

.480 is asking for trouble, IMHO.

I would stick with the LT1 cam.

By the way, there are NO stupid questions on this forum. We are ALL here to learn from each other. And you are as good as the next person in these parts
What? There are numerous guys running 081s and 416s with larger cams without clearance problems. As long as he upgrades the springs he will be fine...
Old May 15, 2003 | 08:46 PM
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Thanks for the help, but now you guys got me confused is the 480 lift too much for stock heads, any other cam recomendations?
Old May 15, 2003 | 11:58 PM
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The LT1 cam is the cheapest and best cam for a relatively stock 305.

Period.
Old May 16, 2003 | 12:08 AM
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I'm talking on behalf of 20 years of engine building experiance... lets put it this way- i have a cam in my 305 that runs 420ish lift...

Its verrryyy close to hittin the guide holes... so close infact, i cannot run 1.6 rockers...

i agree, an lt1 cam would be a good choice.



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