Deal on a longblock
Deal on a longblock
I found a real cheap longblock. The casting number is 10243880. At www.mortec.com it says this
10243880...350...95-00...2 or 4...Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors and "ZZ4", roller cam, one piece rear seal
What does it mean when it says Gen.1 Crate motors and "ZZ4"? It's a 4 bolt main which is cool too. It's got 906 heads on it. Do you think they're the ones with the exhaust port problem? Should I get this? It's only like $200.
-Rippin
10243880...350...95-00...2 or 4...Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors and "ZZ4", roller cam, one piece rear seal
What does it mean when it says Gen.1 Crate motors and "ZZ4"? It's a 4 bolt main which is cool too. It's got 906 heads on it. Do you think they're the ones with the exhaust port problem? Should I get this? It's only like $200.
-Rippin
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When it says Gen I crate motors that just means this block is used to make some of the Gen I crate motors. Stealth had it right about the Gen thing. ZZ4 is just a common GM crate motor, so this block is used when making those.
The heads are the L31 heads. Ive seen them used in several magazine build-ups, so I wouldnt think they have the port problem. But I could be wrong.
The heads are the L31 heads. Ive seen them used in several magazine build-ups, so I wouldnt think they have the port problem. But I could be wrong.
Of course that's a good deal. $200 for a good bare block of that year is worth it in my mind, let alone an entire shortblock. Yes it's a truck block and has 4 bolt mains, that's why Gm uses it for their "performance" crate engines. 4 bolts rule. If it's stock it has "Pink" rods, Hyper pistons and a roller cam/lifter setup. L31 heads are cool also and come standard on all truck engines of that span. GM sells them complete for $400-500 a set so yes the heads alone again are worth at least 200 and they're the best production head avaliable for the Gen1 SBC thru gm. Hell they're even better than some of GM's Performance Parts heads, those being the Bowtie castings easily.
Yer saving money big time going this way. Now spend that saved cash and have the heads worked on. Have a shop disassemble them, hot tank, put new springs/rocker arms if needed, new seals, a GOOD race inspired valve job, pocket porting, runner polishing, and most of all valve guide machining to accomodate the BIG camshaft that you'll be installing in it.
This is the way to make cheap, real power. The stock springs that come on them are no good for .500"+ lift and the heads can benefit from a cam a lot larger than that so that's the reason for the new springs/valve guide machining part. Goodluck!
Yer saving money big time going this way. Now spend that saved cash and have the heads worked on. Have a shop disassemble them, hot tank, put new springs/rocker arms if needed, new seals, a GOOD race inspired valve job, pocket porting, runner polishing, and most of all valve guide machining to accomodate the BIG camshaft that you'll be installing in it.
This is the way to make cheap, real power. The stock springs that come on them are no good for .500"+ lift and the heads can benefit from a cam a lot larger than that so that's the reason for the new springs/valve guide machining part. Goodluck!
Oh yeah... You're a 750 carb, headers, an Edelbrock Super Victor Vortec, a properly matched camshaft, and a small hit of nitrous from solid 10's with traction*.
*new rods/pistons not needed but also not included for some freak reason that it grenades into roughly 500+ metal pieces/shavings...

*new rods/pistons not needed but also not included for some freak reason that it grenades into roughly 500+ metal pieces/shavings...
It's a great deal for a roller motor if the block isn't cracked. As far as going solid 10's on vortech heads, I'm really doubting that. Those heads use a small intake runner design that promotes a high velocity intake charge (read: they work good with a TPI motor). I'm thinking more like mid to low 12's on the motor and mid 11's with the nitrous on the vortech castings. Don't bother having the heads reworked, they work great in their stock form with better springs (minor port/polish to smooth the passages), but when you really port them you kill their intake velocity and you can't really make the small runner support crazy high horse power (plus it's not cost effective). They work great for a street car or mild strip. If you want more, just get a good set of high flowing aluminum heads.
Oh yeah, the heads that had the problems were the 305 vortech heads. Avoid those at all costs.
Oh yeah, the heads that had the problems were the 305 vortech heads. Avoid those at all costs.
Originally posted by 97WS6SCharged
As far as going solid 10's on vortech heads, I'm really doubting that.
As far as going solid 10's on vortech heads, I'm really doubting that.

I didn't wanna say 9's but yes that's being done. I doubt this guy is going to run a serious cam/suspension/trans setup like the guys who are doing it are so I didn't.
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Formula Steve
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Sep 19, 2023 08:31 AM



