fellas, i got a LG4 305 from a 86 firebird in a 79 Z28, and since the engines timing was controlled by the computer that it came out of, how the hell do i know what kinda timing to run on the engine if it now has a MSD HEI distrubutor installed now.
the timing tab is at the 12 oclock position, with a little round thing on the tab for the magnetic sensor thing. I have the motor now set at 6 degrees base, with 21 degrees cent. and the VA limited to 5-8 degrees only. without the vacuum advance limiter plate, the car detonated BADLY under load, ANY load, and still does slightly on 93 octane even with only a total of maybe 35 degrees TOTAL.
any ideas on what a bone stock internally LG4 305 with the usual bolt ons can take for timing. (edelbrock 600 4bbl, LT1 hirise intake, headers, duals, flowmastas)
any help can be appreciated.

 

curve kit. you need to put heavier springs in it or lighter weights, this will bring the timing in where it needs to be. it takes a little time but is what needed to be done.

 

i just order a recurve kit from msd, gonna run the heaviest springs on it i can. i know the cam in a stock LG4 305 specs out at something so bad i gag when i type. like 306 inches of lift and 190 degrees duration. the cam is so small the Lift should be the duration and the duration should be the lift!!!!!!!!!!!! wtf!!!!!! 155 hp from this engine? im assuming the cam is why i cant run more than maybe 4 degrees initial timing and MAYBE MAYBE a whopping 20 degrees cent. advance. im almost contemplating locking out the vacuum advance.
At WOT the motor knocks pretty good at 4500 rpm or so, (which is prolly 500 rpm past redline for this POS) but, ill see what i can do.

i was looking at an adjustable vacuum advance canister but i dunno who to get it from??? what will fit a MSD street fire distributor??

thanx fellas

 

dont go stright for the heavies, go gradually. the heaviest will make the car a slug and as for your cam, remember at that time the automakers were learing how to do HP with emissions and smalll cams and low hp numbers were a result.

i sugguest you get your timing correct for now and once you get that running well and understand whats going on and how it works THEN upgrade to a bigger cam. if you upgrade cams i sugguest going roller as there is no chance of wiping a lobe on break in.

 

There is no way that should spark knock at 35 total. That motor need 36 to 38 because of the sucky heads. I would look at a possible spun balancer. A very small amount equals 10-20 degrees. Just talking from experience. I spent 3 weeks for the same thing. Total ah ha moment made me feel like an idiot because the garage was full when old timer said balancer might be off.

 

if his dizzy isnt set up he will have detonation issues, my DUI did this untill i curved it, but the spun balancer isnt a rule out ither.