ViperXx

I seem to be having a problem I can't get rid of... I have a 1989 Chevrolet Camaro 5.7L v8 Convertable RS (engine is not stock.) and after driving it for a bit and then parking it for about 30 mins, I go to try to crank it and it won't even turn over. I've replaced the ignition switch (was bad any ways), security relay, starter solonoid and a few connectors that weren't in the best of shape and still having the problem. Does anyone have any idea how to fix it? Usually I can start the car after 1-2 hrs of sitting and cooling off. Would a starter rebuild fix this? Could I buy a kit and do it my self? TIA

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1989 Camaro RS Convertable
350 ci Throttle Body Injection
(no mods yet, mostly stock except the 305 was removed and replaced with a 350)
Suggestions very much welcome!
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1996 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L v6 (Stock), Black
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1986 Chevrolet Camaro v6 2.8L (Stock)

Bristol

What the problem is, is that the starter solonoid is getting heated up by the exhaust. To fix it you can buy a heatshield or a starter blanket that cover the starter and solonoid and deflects the heat away. They cost $15 Canadian. Good luck

ViperXx

Even on a new solonoid?? I'll go buy one and give it a try.. I thought the car had one but maybe not..

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1989 Camaro RS Convertable
350 ci Throttle Body Injection
(no mods yet, mostly stock except the 305 was removed and replaced with a 350)
Suggestions very much welcome!
------------------------
1996 Pontiac Firebird 3.8L v6 (Stock), Black
------------------------
1986 Chevrolet Camaro v6 2.8L (Stock)

ViperXx

Found out something new.. got it to do it again, and I had it up on jack stands this time.. I took it out and ran it for a while, came back, it cranked up fine, I put it on jack stands, let it sit for 20 minutes, came back, wouldn't crank, got up under it, used a screw driver again the 2 poles and it cranked.. I checked and the security light is not on and then it was cranking fine after I did that to the starter.. Anyone have any other ideas?

Bristol

The solonoid gets heat soaked and then it wont work. Has to do with expansion. If you have headers get one. It doesnt matter if the solonoid is new or old. What you did with the screwdriver is you manually did the job that the overheated solonoid couldnt do until it has cooled and contracted. Trust me. Everyone who has headers has or will have to deal with this problem one way or another.

stonedchihuahua

you need a new starter. This is what happened to mine when I first got it. It wouldn't start sometimes and then I would give it a boost and it would start fine a couple times and then it quit. It did this for about a week and then I called David Ts in edmonton where I bought it and he threw on a new starter for me free of charge.

stonedchihuahua

I should say rebuilt starter

Bristol

But he only has problems starting after the car has been run. Im not saying that it doesnt need a starter but I can pretty much guarntee the problem is what I said. If he jumps the solonoid with a screwdriver it starts so the starter is still good. The problem is that the solonoid will not do its job when its hot. If he has to jump start the car maybe its the starter. Read what was written and the stuff he said points to heat soak.

ViperXx

Ok, Im going to go pick up a heat shield today for it. Got a quick question though.. If the solonoid was getting too hot and won't crank with the key because it was too hot, why would it crank when I used the screw driver?

ViperXx

Oh yah, and I don't have headers, I just have a custom flowmaster exhaust system, had to have the pipes moved in away from the edge of the car so I could put something else there, but I've been having this problem before the exhaust work but it was kinda random timing before..

PonyEtrZ28

my car does the same thing. only thing i have a starter blanket as well. and it still wont start!. i think i might have to invest in a few things. such as a new starter(again)
and a shield to go along with the blanket!..
so im just saying it doesnt always work to get a blanket.good luck.
and oh yeah i think im selling my intake for sure this time.
i want $500.00. includes, ported edelbrock base,ported slp siamesed runners,poretd plenum. i wont be able to sell the fuel rails with it.

Bristol

Read what he wrote!!! If he jumps the solonoid it works!!! It only happens when its hot!!! Try the $15 fix first. If you have problems when its cold too then its not gonna matter whether you have a shield or a blanket.

ViperXx

I'll give the shield a try, I went to the parts house today but they don't have one so Im going to go to a salvage yard on tuesday and see if I can find one.. Thnx for the help, hope it works.

irocbob89

Ive had the SAME EXACT problems that your having, i put a mini starter on the car with a heat shield and never had the problem again. Just get the heat shield and everything will be good. Even if the car didnt start with the ignition key i could use a wire and connect two different fuses together and it would start right up. Anyways once i got the new starter and the heat shield i never had the problem again. Use the heat shield, im sure thats the problem.

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89' red iroc-z
386 stroker
Mini ram, 58mm tb
30#lbs,255 high flow fuel pump
slp cam, 1.6rr
edelbrock performer heads p+p 2.02 1.60
Hooker super comps, Mufflex 4' exhaust
Ford 9' 4.11 gears, detroit locker, 31 spline
Full suspension
B&M mega shifter,2800 stall
baer rear brakes,line lock
converted to speed density
Ed Wright dyno tuned


89' red Iroc-z
LT-1, 4L60E
free mods,chip,no cat, flowmaster