OK, this turned into a pretty long post, I hope it helps...

First off, welcome to the board!!

The long-block is more complete. Short-block assemblies usually consist of just the cylinder block & internals like the crank, rods, pistons, etc. The long-block generally has all of that plus complete cylinder heads & valvetrain.

If you're going to go with a 200 HP shot of nitrous, you'll probably want to add the extra $266 (US) for the forged crankshaft - and you'll definitely want to also make sure that your pistons are forged & that your rods are pretty strong as well. Otherwise, you'll mess up your new engine. The "rule of thumb" I've heard for nitrous is that a stock V-8 engine (non-forged components) can take about 125 HP, any bigger than that & you need to build the engine for the additional power.

Unfortunately, making big horsepower isn't cheap...

Unless he has a turbocharger (and a good tune) your Camaro will destroy him power-wise... (And even then, you'll probably beat him handily...)

Well, the 400 will be stronger (& last longer) but as mentioned before it will take more power to run it as well. The 350 is a good choice, but it would be a very good idea to get it "beefed up" before installing it so that it lasts longer.

A "normal" (or "stock") TH350 won't last forever behind all that power, a "beefed up" TH350 will last quite a while longer. You'll also be much happier with the way it shifts.


You'll need to know whether you have a 153-tooth or 168-tooth flywheel. I think that there are different "noses" on different starters as well, but I don't remember off-hand...

This brings up a VERY IMPORTANT point - it's absolutely CRITICAL that you start with a plan before ordering parts (and it sounds like you already know what you want). That way you can make sure that all of the parts you order will work well together. (Example - you'll want to make sure that the XE268 cam will work well with the heads you'll be running. From what I could see, the heads have intake valves that are 1.94 inches, & exhaust valves of 1.50 inches. Does that work well with that cam? The only way to put together a good combination is to ask a LOT of questions - eventually you'll see what works well together. This article might be a good start.)

Since you're using a carburetor & you apparently don't have to worry about emissions, you can also post questions on the 'Classic Tech' board as well - there might be a few more people there to answer your questions.

And just for the record, I would also recommend getting your headers ceramic-coated, rather than painted or chromed. I believe that Jet-Hot has a deal where you can order your headers through them, they will receive the headers, apply the ceramic coating, & then ship them to you. (Not sure if that works for Europe though...)

Finally, you may also find it helpful to check out the Thirdgen.org's tech page. They also have a forum with people who know a LOT about these cars, & can help steer you away from some of the common mistakes people make.

A few extra links to close this message out:

Thunder Racing has a pretty good selection of third-gen parts.

You can sometimes get good advice on selecting parts from magazine articles (but keep in mind they're in business to help their advertisers sell parts). Two of the better ones (IMHO) are Super Chevy and Chevy High Performance.

One of the biggest factors in how your car runs is whether your camshaft works well with the other parts of your combination (the engine's compression ratio, intake manifold, cylinder heads, the torque converter in your TH350, the gears in the differential, etc.). It's kind of basic, but this page gives you a small idea of the different factors to watch.

I hope this doesn't scare you away, stay for a while, & you can be as "confused" as the rest of us...

 

Oh noooooooooo......

Now i'm really confused ....

And i have only 2 days left to complete my list of Parts to order...

Help.....

 

OK, I was afraid of that... My apologies, it certainly can be overwhelming.

The primary idea that I wanted to convey is that you want to ensure that everything works well together.

Instead of me trying to guess what questions you have, please tell us what you're confused about. It IS a lot of information to think about, but there are a lot of people here to help, so ask away.

And again, I apologize for overwhelming you with all of that.

 

Hmmm...

Here is my list:

377 4 bolt main (4.000 inch Bore & 3.750 inch Stroke)

BLOCK- New GM Standard Bore 4 bolt main block with 2-piece rear main seal. Honed for Moly rings.Painted inside with rustoleum to aid in a quicker oil return.The outside of the block is painted with a choice of factory colors. Fitted with new cam bearings and brass freeze plugs. These new blocks accept right or left side dipsticks.
CRANKSHAFT – Cast iron 3.750 crank custom ground on rod and main journals. Micropolished with oil holes chamfered.
RODS – 5.700'' log factory forged rods that have been shotpeened, resized, fitted with new chrome moly rod bolts for maximum strenght.
PISTONS- New! Your choice of forged dishes or flat-top pistons. Avaliable in the following compressions ratios:
Flat Top Pistons: 67cc Head 9.9 Apx. Comp. Ratio
Dish Pistons: 67cc Head 9.3 Apx. Comp. Ratio
Optional L-2304F Dome: 67cc Head 10.7 Apx. Comp. Ratio
L-2304F: Add $100.00 - i select this option

RINGS - New Moly faced top comp. ring w/premium stainless oil ring.
BEARINGS - New Clevite M77 Tri-metal bearings to match crankshaft.
TIMING CHAIN SET – New P.A.W. Double roller chain & gears.
BALANCED – Assembly custom balanced w/pistons fitted to rods.

CYLINDER HEADS: NEW World Products SR 67cc cylinder heads with 1.94 intake & 1.50 exhaust. Heads feature brand new World Products castings, new Manley valves, new chrome moly retainers, new valve stem seals, new hardened valve locks, new performance valve springs which will handle up to .500 lift hydraulic camshaft. Hardened exhaust seats, new screw in studs, 3-angle valve job, 7 bolt exhaust flange.

LIFTERS: NEW P.A.W. Hydraulic

PUSHRODS: NEW P.A.W. High-performance chrome moly pushrods

OIL PUMP: NEW P.A.W. High-volume oil pump

GASKETS: New full set of top-quality Fel-Pro gaskets.

ROCKER ARMS: NEW SSI High-performance long-slot rockers with antigall ***** an new lock nuts.

CAMSHAFT: Comp Cams Xtreme Energy CS XE268H-10 Hydraulic flat tappet (1,600-5,800 RPM) (CCA-12-242-2) Advertised Duration 268/280, Lift .477/.480

OPTIONS: - Guide plates – NEW ($100)
- Double V/S chromoly retainers, PC seals – NEW ($125)
- SSI Stainless 1.94 & 1.50 valves – NEW ($64)
- SSI Stainless 2.02 & 1.60 valves – NEW ($110)
- Dome L-2304F Forget Piston – NEW ($100)
- NEW 5140 Forget Steel Crankshat 3.750 Stroke ($286)
- PC seals NEW ($40)

Which OPTIONS should i pick? I think the bold marked are real neccesary.






INTAKE MANIFOLD: Edelbrock Performer RPM EDL-7104, Intake Manifold, Carbureted, Aluminum, Natural, Dual Plane, Chevy, Small Block
or Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap EDL-7501

CARB: Holley 4150 series, Double pumper, Mechanical secondaries (i have at home already)

ENGINE BOLT KIT: Engine & Accessory Fasteners, Stainless Hex, Chevrolet Small Block, Kit

HARMONIC BALANCER: Summit OEM : Harmonic Balancer, OEM, Internal/External Balance, Nodular Iron, Chevy Small Block Gen I

STARTER: Starter, Full Size, Offset, Chrome Plated, Chevy SUM-G1668 , flywheel ????

WATER PUMP: SUM-311006 Water Pump, Mechanical, Clockwise, High-Volume, Iron, Black Powdercoated, SB Chevy, Long
+ Water pump bolts (SUM-G1572HS) + Thermostat (160?? or 180?? degree, High flow)

I dont know nothing about my flywheel. Should i become one with engine? Should i select one from new components from Summit catalog?

TIMING COVER: MRG-1099 kit

Valve covers tall, steel, chrome plated + breathers + Wing nuts

How can I figure out on which side is dipstick of my engine?

HEADERS: Headman Headers HED-68460,Headers, Full Length, Steel, Painted, Chevy, Small Block, Pair, 1 5/8 tube
or FlowTech Headers BIG-11100FLT, Headers, Full Length, Steel, Painted, Chevy, Small Block, Pair, 1 5/8 tube
or Hooker Competition Headers HOK-2451HKR, Headers, Full Length, Steel, Painted, Chevy, Small Block, Pair, 1 5/8 tube

OIL PAN: ?? Summit SUM-G3502 Summit 7-Quart Oil Pans for Small Block Chevy + Oil Pickup, Press-Fit, Aftermarket Pan Style, Chevy, Small Block MOR-24170

Performance Gold oil filter KNN-HP-2002

ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP Holley Blue with regulator HLY-12-802-1

I still prefer TH-400 trans... (because it can transmit more power...)

Need any additional pulleys??? Perhaps driveshaft...? I have one now on 5 speed manual trans...

Did I forget still something?

Will this configuration work together?

Please help....

 

Which OPTIONS should i pick? I think the bold marked are real neccesary.

The forged pistons are very good, and a good choice if you're using lots of nitrous.

The larger 2.02 valves will let your engine move more air, and thereby make more horsepower at higher RPMs.

The smaller 1.94 valves might be more efficient at lower RPMs, but since it sounds like you are wanting a "weekend warrior" car, you'll probably be happier with the 2.02 valves.

The forged crankshaft is a good idea with the nitrous you spoke of.

INTAKE MANIFOLD: Edelbrock Performer RPM EDL-7104, Intake Manifold, Carbureted, Aluminum, Natural, Dual Plane, Chevy, Small Block or Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap EDL-7501

I have heard that the RPM Air-Gap manifold is one of the best carb manifolds there is. (I don't know myself, as my car is TPI...)

ENGINE BOLT KIT:

If you have the money, it would be a VERY good idea to get really good fasteners, at least for the rods, crank, etc. - The best brand (from what I've heard) is ARP. It's like "insurance" for your engine.

I dont know nothing about my flywheel. Should i become one with engine? Should i select one from new components from Summit catalog?

I think that our cars take the 168-tooth flywheel, but I'd double-check that.

How should i determ dipstick side???

Since the P.A.W. engine can have the dipstick on either side, that's up to you. Before 1986 it was on the driver's side, after 1986 it's on the passenger side. I personally like it on the passenger side (seems to be more room there), but you can do either way it sounds like.

HEADERS:

I'd agree with the people before me who suggested either the Hooker or the Heddman headers - don't bother with the Flowtechs.

OIL PAN:

Save your money - use the oil pan you already have unless you have a good reason to upgrade.

I still prefer TH-400 trans... (because it can transmit more power...)

I agree, but some people want every little bit of speed possible, so they'll take the lighter tranny even though they may have to rebuild it more often.

Need any additional pulleys???

Probably not.

Perhaps driveshaft...?

Might not be a bad idea, but I don't know if you'll need it right away...

It would probably be a good idea to think about upgrading the radiator if you'll be driving it much. These cars don't have the greatest cooling systems when you add lots more power...

Will this configuration work together?

From what I can see, yes, it should..

Feel free to ask any other questions, I don't have a lot of answers, but others here probably do...