I have an 89 firebird 305 tbi and it runs very nice, its a little beat up but nothing too serious. The concern I have is the front right break. Whenever I hit the brakes the car pulls to the left. I though the breaks were shot so I replace the front brakes and rotors, then I though the caliper might be done. I put a new caliper on and it still does it. So I drove it around for about 10 mins got it back and when I got out I noticed the right wheel had smoke coming from it and the rim was so damn hot I could barely touch it. Any ideas why it is still pulled and why its getting so hot? I bled the brake lines when I was done and everything seems just fine so I am not sure what the issue is.
Thanks,
CMC

 

The fact that the car is pulling to the left indicates the right brake is not working properly. I would jack that side up and apply the brakes to see 1) is the brake working and 2) is it releasing after letting off the brake. Air in the lines could be a cause of the problems, might try bleeding it again. I have also seen brake lines that fail inside (the inside wall of the hose seperates and blocks the fluid) and doesn't allow enough fluid through to properly operate the brakes. A good sign of this is when bleeding that side the amount of fluid coming out and the pressure just doesn't seem to be the same as the other side. Lastly I would check the condition of the slide mechanism on that side to make sure the caliper can slide freely. Hope that helps.

 

one more thing, When I was putting the caliper on I had to hammer it on because it would not go on freely even with the caliper fully compressed, and when I got it on I could barely get the wheel to move. I think i will be looking into the lines this weekend, I have no clue where the slider thing is though. Have to look into that a littme more.

Thanks for the great input,
CMC

 

You had to do WHAT? If you had to hammer anything you have something wrong somewhere. You either have the wrong caliper,wrong pads,or wrong rotor,and maybe a combination of. The caliper when fully open with the new pads should just slip over the rotor with little or no drag on it. I would also check the brake lines(rubber) after you find the problem with the rotor. If it was that hot you probably boiled the fluid and will have to rebleed the lines to get all the air out.

 

If you have the original brake hoses, change them. Trust me on that. I did and noticed that I had an inch less brake travel and firmer pedal response.

It should be a snug fit but no hammering is required. Assuming you have flushed the brakes and all fluid is clean and you compressed the piston to the max, it should practically drop in unless your pads are wrong.

 

On a side note, you replace calipers as a set. Front Set or Rear Set. Never one. After all, if one is broke, unless it is a brand new car, how far behind is the other?

Are you sure you flushed all the gunk out of the brake system? And bled it perfectly?

 

The fact that you had to hammer the caliper onto the knuckle is a dead giveaway something is not right. I'd be inspecting this calipers fit very closely, and figure out why it's so tight. Also, make sure your caliper slides (The bolts that hold the caliper on) are lubed and slide easily.

 

It really sounds like a bad brake line to me.

When they get old they act like a one way valve.. they will clamp but not unclamp. thats why your steering is pulling hard.

 

It could be the right caliper is seized. Same thing happened in my 'Marrow. The left brake was not working.. but the front right was. THe left one was partially engaged.. and you could smell brake, the rim was BURNING hot, and it was ALMOST glowing (the caliper). Try turning the tire.. if it is hard, more than likely the caliper has seized.

 

aklim is right. TRUST ME ON THIS, I am a long-term expert on third-gens, with fifteen years on the same car. The rubber brake line is failed. Replace both front brake lines. Reinstall the calipers. Bleed the brakes well and replace ALL old brake fluid. A little known fact is that brake fluid is SUPPOSED to be changed every two years. It is hygroscopic, and sucks up moisture straight out of the air. This moisture rusts your brake lines from the inside out, and rots out the rubber brake lines. Your hoses have collapsed and delaminated themselves from the steel sheathing on the inside.

I've had this happen to me TWICE: Once in 1991, and again in 1998. I've since installed Earl's Hyperstop braided steel brake lines and now change the brake fluid whenever I notice a color change, usually every two to three years. (All three of my cars need it this winter. )

 

Make sure the metal "collars" that are in the caliper that are supposed to slide are still sliding. If they are stuck, it could be your problem. It sounds like the caliper is dragging and I'd think that is a good thing to check as well. Just thinking out loud.

 

I just want to let everyone know. I got a new caliper and a new brake line for like 25 bucks from auto zone. I was pretty sure it was the caliper but i figured since I was there I would do the line because it was really wore down. Bled the brakes and now it works just like new. Thanks for all the info. Not sure if it was the caliper or the line but as for now it is all resolved.

CMC

 

You do realize that now you have to figure out what you want to do with your other 4 rubber lines that are probably way past, don't you? I would replace the other caliper too because it is pretty much accepted practive to do both at the same time.

 

heh theres my problem.... i replaced one caliper and i drove around for about the same time and my rotor was smoking up bad....think i know what to do now lol....