body reliablility on high hp
body reliablility on high hp
Just finished up my Z28 and want to start on my RS. My question is how much power will the chassis take before damage. Im putting in a SB that dynoed out just over 590 hp, 580tq. I want to keep this car streetable with no cage. Would SFC's handle the job or am i going to need more to hook it up. 4 pt or 6 pt? The motor is going to be tied with a front plate. Its going up to a turbo 350 trans 4000 stall, to 12 bolt with 4.10's and a 30' tall slick. Im going to run 10.5' to 11' on the rear. Will the chassis handle this without a cage.
BTW. Car is a 92 RS with hardtop.
BTW. Car is a 92 RS with hardtop.
Re: body reliablility on high hp
if u dont want a cage, i would do the spohn sfc's as well as the alston bolt on inner sfc's.
those two sfc's sets combined should work very well and keep things in check.
i would add in a strut tower bar in the engine bay also.
those two sfc's sets combined should work very well and keep things in check.
i would add in a strut tower bar in the engine bay also.
580 lb-ft of torque?!?
That's gonna be a fun ride!
Now this isn't a flame in any way, but I don't see why you're dead-set against having a cage.
I think you're pretty much guaranteed to get about one pass down the track before they ask you to park it until you have a cage... And I'm thinking that the bit of add'l weight that the cage adds will be MORE than offset by having the car more rigid, & the chassis more predictable...
(Of course, I could be way off-base too, that's happened once or twice...)
(EDIT: OK, going back & re-reading his post, I see where he wrote "I want to keep this car streetable with no cage" & I can understand not wanting a cage on the street - if [God forbid] you get T-boned, your head goes sideways, & even if you have padding on the top bar, you're probably going to need a bit more than Excedrin.
My best suggestion in that case -thinking out loud here- would be to try for a minimal cage, maybe see if you can get the vertical bars behind the front seats "angled back" a bit, so that if someone rear-ends you, your head passes under the bar...
My gut is telling me that the power you're making is going to be all that two sets of SFCs can handle, & then some...)
That's gonna be a fun ride!
Now this isn't a flame in any way, but I don't see why you're dead-set against having a cage.
I think you're pretty much guaranteed to get about one pass down the track before they ask you to park it until you have a cage... And I'm thinking that the bit of add'l weight that the cage adds will be MORE than offset by having the car more rigid, & the chassis more predictable...(Of course, I could be way off-base too, that's happened once or twice...)

(EDIT: OK, going back & re-reading his post, I see where he wrote "I want to keep this car streetable with no cage" & I can understand not wanting a cage on the street - if [God forbid] you get T-boned, your head goes sideways, & even if you have padding on the top bar, you're probably going to need a bit more than Excedrin.
My best suggestion in that case -thinking out loud here- would be to try for a minimal cage, maybe see if you can get the vertical bars behind the front seats "angled back" a bit, so that if someone rear-ends you, your head passes under the bar...
My gut is telling me that the power you're making is going to be all that two sets of SFCs can handle, & then some...)
Last edited by V8Rumble; Jan 19, 2005 at 11:33 PM.
Re: body reliablility on high hp
i had just over 400 at the wheels and started getting cracks in certain body pannels so i added a cage. i'd put it in and go with it until you need to add more. sfc's are always a must anyhow.
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