Have been having an overheating problem lately and the possibility of a blown head gasket are very high. I will be getting a compression test or leak down test in the next couple of days.

What is the better test out of these 2 tests to look for a blown head gasket?

I have a 305TPI and wanted to ask if anyone knows the part numbers for a replacement head gasket set including everything for the TPI. Does Jeg or Summit sell them and what is the recommendation on which one to get. I basically need all the gaskets from the heads up.

If it does come down to changing the gaskets and only one head has a blown one I think it would make sense to change the other gasket on the other head too or is it okay to leave it?

What's the verdict on that?

I am also thinking seeing as basically the engine will almost pulled apart I might also get a CAM for it.

I will have to buy a torque wrench to torque the bolts down again. But I will save on doing it myself so I might as well get tools that I can use when I need to.

Any tips on a smooth operation in changing the head gaskets? Any tricks?

Do I have to drain the coolant from the bottom of the block or just emptying the radiator is sufficent?

OH and what kind of numbers are okay on a compression test? I just want to have some idea on what numbers to look for just in case the mechanic does not want to take me for a ride.

Thanks,
Mike

 

I would reccomend sticking with Felpro for at least the head gaskets. And if you are considering a cam swap, you might want to think about having your heads gone through, or at least getting them cut ten thou and replacing the valve springs and seals. Purchase the cheap ($50) set of ARP head bolts and chase the bolt holes. As far as replacing the gaskets, pay special attention to keeping the mating surfaces as clean as possible. And keep the intake ports blocked with small rags as you work your way up the engine. It is a real bummer dropping some small part down your engine and having to tear it down again.

 

Rudy,

Chase the holes?? Is that another way of saying clean them.

 

Sorta. You clean them out with either air or brake cleaner. Make sure your cylinders are plugged up so minimal amount of debris gets in them. Use a tap with some grease and tap it again to make sure that anything there is cleaned off and if the threads are not quite right, it is done right. Clean them off after doing that. Also make sure the cylinders are clean. I prefer to use break cleaner so that there is no residue and then I can blow off the cylinders then coat them with WD40.

 

Just had a look at car to see how things would go once I begin taking heads off.

I can already see one big problem!

Some head bolts are right behind header pipes! I cannot get to them, I can just get my finger on them reaching behind the header pipes but that is about it. I have Tri-Y's and removing the headers is impossible at the moment. I would need the exhaust guy to put on a couple more extra flanges to be able to take them off.

Other then that I don't see any way getting to them. Just buy unbolting the headers will not help at all cause they will not give away at all I might get couple mm's out of them but no where near enough room to get a socket onto the head bolts.

So looks like either get exhaust modified or yank the whole engine. I don't think there is any other sollution to getting to the head bolts behind the headers.

 

What Tri-Y headers do you have? AFAIK, they only ones listed for our cars is the Accel one which is out of production years ago.

Those were easy enough to remove. The head bolts are in the rocker area. What bolts are you refering to? The accessory bolts are in the front and in the rear are the ground lines. There is also the air tube to the cat that might be hooked up to the head. AFAIK, if you take off the bolts in the rocker area the head should come off. It has been quite a few years since I did that so my knowledge may be a little fuzzy

 

I had a custom set of headers done. You might have given me some good news about the bolts. I thought the bolts near the spark plugs are also head bolts???

So the only bolts holding down the head are visible only once the rocker covers are off is that correct?

The air pipes pollution gear is all off the car. There is that one nut on the back of the head with some wires on it. Once I get the head off I will extend those wires and ground them somewhere else.

The bolts that I was refering to are right near the spark plugs. Do you know which one I am talking about? I might take a picture and post it up if you don't know what I am trying to explain.

 

Here is a picture what bolts I have been talking about. You can see them right near the spark plug. They run all alongside the head so I presume they hold down the head also.

But some you cant get to cause the header pipe runs over the top of them.

 

Oops. looking at wrong pic. Those ARE cylinder head bolts. Just confirmed that with the correct pic in Chiltons. Sorry about that but you are going to have to take the exhaust off. My bad