B&M shifter problem on Auto
I bought a used B&M shifter off of a camaro with a 700r4 tranny. I put it on my 92 bird with same tranny and now I have problems. I can't get adjusted right, It won't go in Park or 1st. If I adjust it to go in park it only works every once in a while when I slam it and won't drop to first at all. Is it possible the cable is just shot. It attaches on my tranny pan in one place and can't be moved unless I rig it should I try that. I haven't ried adjusting right on the shifter which I will try tomorow but I can't remember if it is adjustable there. Any insight is good and thanks in advance.
there's no adj. at the shifter.
Id pop off the cable at both ends and it should slide in and out easily by hand. if not, then the cable is shot. (or poss. routed too tightly somewhere.
I set mine up like this.
1_disconn. cable at trans by pulling cotter pin and sliding the adj. out of lever.
2-place trans in drive by the lever from under neath. you will need to put the lever all the way forward, then pull back and count gears.
3-place shifter in drive.
4-now, from underneath, adj. the cable end and cable housing forward or back, to make the end of the cable slide into the lever straight.
thats all you need to do. after that, I'll usu\ally try to pull the shifter into low(1st) then pop off the cotter pin and make sure the cable is still in the right spot.
if you still have prob.s, then Id suspect the cable is stretched or the shifter isnt right anymore. did you try this shifter in the old car? if so, did it work properly? did yo get the tranny lever from the other trans. (there's a specific lever that comes with it. it is shaped like an L and hase two mounting holes in it.
which reminds me. yo have to use the correct hole so the geometry is right. I believe its the forward hole, but my trans is out right now so I cant say for sure. one hole the gears will line up, the other they will not.
good luck chris
------------------
1986 Iroc Z
355, ported camel hump heads,750 holley, 700r4, 10.5 compr., forged flat tops, solidcam .501I .510E, 4gen rear w/3:73 posi, girdle, and disc's, Edel. torker II, shift kit, 3500 stal, hedmann LT. headers, 4 gen seats, man. strg., lt1 starter, alum. w/p, msd 6al, coil, dist., mallory wires.13.34 @102mph best w/that combo. have trick flow heads and tighter conv. to put in currently.
1995 z28,SS Hood, Iroc style spoiler, tints and black outs, 700r4,2400 act. stall speed,B&M hammer shifter, 17" budnick trilogy III wheels, 275/40 ZR17, 160 stat, man. cooling fan sw., homemaid CAI,1LE elbow, hypertech airfoil, t.b.bypass,!cat, flowmaster, !maf screen, relocated batt., 1LE front l.c.a.s', poly trans and torq.arm bushings, MSD 6AL, custom program, p&p maf, accel coil, and under drive pulley
mods that i have, just not on car yet:
msd wires, edelbrock mid. headers, edelbrock rpm catback
Id pop off the cable at both ends and it should slide in and out easily by hand. if not, then the cable is shot. (or poss. routed too tightly somewhere.
I set mine up like this.
1_disconn. cable at trans by pulling cotter pin and sliding the adj. out of lever.
2-place trans in drive by the lever from under neath. you will need to put the lever all the way forward, then pull back and count gears.
3-place shifter in drive.
4-now, from underneath, adj. the cable end and cable housing forward or back, to make the end of the cable slide into the lever straight.
thats all you need to do. after that, I'll usu\ally try to pull the shifter into low(1st) then pop off the cotter pin and make sure the cable is still in the right spot.
if you still have prob.s, then Id suspect the cable is stretched or the shifter isnt right anymore. did you try this shifter in the old car? if so, did it work properly? did yo get the tranny lever from the other trans. (there's a specific lever that comes with it. it is shaped like an L and hase two mounting holes in it.
which reminds me. yo have to use the correct hole so the geometry is right. I believe its the forward hole, but my trans is out right now so I cant say for sure. one hole the gears will line up, the other they will not.
good luck chris
------------------
1986 Iroc Z
355, ported camel hump heads,750 holley, 700r4, 10.5 compr., forged flat tops, solidcam .501I .510E, 4gen rear w/3:73 posi, girdle, and disc's, Edel. torker II, shift kit, 3500 stal, hedmann LT. headers, 4 gen seats, man. strg., lt1 starter, alum. w/p, msd 6al, coil, dist., mallory wires.13.34 @102mph best w/that combo. have trick flow heads and tighter conv. to put in currently.
1995 z28,SS Hood, Iroc style spoiler, tints and black outs, 700r4,2400 act. stall speed,B&M hammer shifter, 17" budnick trilogy III wheels, 275/40 ZR17, 160 stat, man. cooling fan sw., homemaid CAI,1LE elbow, hypertech airfoil, t.b.bypass,!cat, flowmaster, !maf screen, relocated batt., 1LE front l.c.a.s', poly trans and torq.arm bushings, MSD 6AL, custom program, p&p maf, accel coil, and under drive pulley
mods that i have, just not on car yet:
msd wires, edelbrock mid. headers, edelbrock rpm catback
dont know. im sure you can get it. yo udef. need it cause the geometry has to be perfect. Id try calling theyre help line. Im sure you can get one. when you take off your old lever, soak it with penetrating oil and try to heat it a tad if you have a butane torch so you dont break the gear selector shaft. that happened to me the first time I did it. if that happens, its not really a bid deal, just drop the pan and replace the shaft(not that hard to do). it costs about $10 from the dealer.
good luck
chris
good luck
chris
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