ok heres the deal. my 87 tpi iroc. when idling my amps are nice and perfect about 14 or so. but when i out on my fans and head lights the amps drop to about 9!. and the car spuders, and then dies. i just went and had my alternator looked at it perfect. all my connctions are light, and clean. everything is brand spakin new. so why is my car being so stuborn about electrical crap.
like i said the car runs awsome with out anything being drawn, but once i click on my fans, the thing runs like its on 4cyls, and dies. whats going on here!.. i have the best alternator and battery they carry at the stores around here. any suggestions?
thanks
shaun

 

I assume you are going by the volt gage. I know the alternator on my 89 Formula has been the only reliability issue on it. I'm on #4, I've learned to keep an eagle eye on my volt gage. As soon as it does anything funny, I change alternator and problem goes away for a couple of years. Luckily I bought a lifetime warranty, so it's only cost me the original $135. Even if an alternaor is new, it can have problems. Other possibility, your fan has a short or a short in the wire feeding it.

[This message has been edited by angel71rs (edited July 14, 2002).]

 

but it not only does it with the fans but, it does it with everything. even when i click on my headlights it does it.and the alternator is a year or two old. but like i said i had it checked and it seemed to be ok,, says the guy from autozone..

 

Sounds like the alternator to me too. I put a brand new alternator on my GN from Auto Zone, and it didn't work at all. The thing was defective. So just because it is new doesn't mean it is ok. I'd get it tested at a couple of different places, and get the battery tested too....might as well...getting them tested is free.

 

i know i did get it tested, and they said it was good. but i dont think they put any load on it or anything. i know its 2years old.
but i donno. i guess i can try and have them replace it. its a life time warranty. but i dont think they would replace it unless they thought it was bad would they?

 

Something to consider: a lot of electrical/electronic problems happen when hot. Hot and under load is probably when your alternator is coughing up the ball. Testing cold with little/no load can't replicate the failure conditions.

I get mine at Autozone too (hmmmm.....). I just walk in, thunk it on the counter and tell them it failed, and they give me another.

[This message has been edited by angel71rs (edited July 14, 2002).]

 

i have the same problem with my 87. when ever the A/C or the head lights are on the volts get really low. i have put 2 brand new alternators on and it still does it.

 

This may be off the wall but a dead cell in your battery will cause problems. Check and clean all your ground connections.

 

battery is new, and i know thats good.!. all wires are new, pos+neg wires. i have a friend of mine coming over in a little bit to throw his alternator in my car, and see what happens, im hoping for that to be it, cuz im not ready to track down more problems with this pile.. if any of you remember i was ready to light it on fire!.
anyone interested in a really expencive flower pot? lol.

------------------
1987 IROC-Z
355ci, Dart 2.02x1.60, compete forged bottom end, SLP siamesed runners, fully ported Edelbrock manifold and plenum, 58mm TB, Accel 26lb Injectors, Edelbrock headers & y-pipe, Flowmaster 3" cat-back, Rebuilt 700r4, B&M Megashifter, Holley 255lph fuel pump, triple guage pod, !A/C & Heat, !Smog pump, bypassed TB, MJS Ram air, custom PROM, Lakewood control lower control arms, Lakewood adjustable pan hard, Sub-Frames, Hotchkis Strut tower brace, Adjustable Torque Arm, 150hp NOS
IROC Pix

 

alright well its not the alternator. put one in from a buddies car, and it does the same thing. im getting agrivated, no wait, im way past that.
im lost!.

 

It must be a wiring problem. I took a look at my Formula and in the line coming off the alternator output stud that goes to the battery +, there is a fusible link. If your vehicle has same, bypass it and see if problem goes away. If it does, link is bad.

 

yeah, i already had a problem with the link, it has a 20volt fuse in it, running from the battery, to the starter, when that blew, it made my fuel pump not kick on.
but i dont think theres anything else like there anywheres else on my car

 

Hey whats up bud,
Well a couple possibilities that i'd check just to be sure..
1. Maybe replace ur plugs again.
2. Check the battery, even though its new it could be a junk one, a bad cell or even a bad connection could be tossing the cookies.
3. Check that power wire i used for the fans, possibly change that, maybe we got to big of a load or current draw from it..
4. Grounds possibly?

I'm going to the track tonight but i dont plan on being there late so i'll come over and help u if u want, maybe Jason will still be with me, he may have an idea of what it could be..

------------------
1988 Camaro IROC Z28 (medium orange metallic)
LB9 305, G92 (3:23 gears)
Borla cat-back exhaust, AFPR (44psi), Port matched and polished entire TPi intake, Hedman Headers & Y-pipe, MSD 6AL Ignition, MSD Blaster coil, MSD wires and cap, TPiS Airfoil, Lakewood control arms, Hotchkis strut tower brace, B&M stage two shift kit, B&M Megashifter, Hypertech Thermochip, Hypertech 160* stat, Sub-frame connectors, K&N airfilter, !screens, Modified airbox, MJS ram air, Bypassed TB, deleted AIR
"1BAD 305"
WNYFA
www.UBRF.org
Check out my pix !!
My IROC Pix
More IROC Pix

 

another question....
and ignition module. say it went bad? how messed up would a car run? would it , lets say make a cur spit and spuder? just wondering. cuz i might replace mine in hopes of solving another problem.

 

First get your battery load tested.
Find someone that has a Fluke meter or a quality amp meter and knows how to use it.
Start turning on the accessories one at a time and check the current draw on each one.
Find the specs for the items you are checking and then you can trace your problem from there.