My friend has a 91 TPI z28, automatic, that is bone stock.
Very infrequently, his car will not start. It is always after the car has already been running. The starter does not drag or anything, and there is no clicking sound either. The car is on it's third starter in 1 year. All the starters were replaced under warranty from Carquest. I checked the negative battery cable and it does seem to be burned up. When the starter is working fine, it does not whine or anything. The altenator is charging right in the middle of the gauge, and does fluctuate eradically.
When it does not want to start, he just lets in sit for about 15 mintues or a bit longer, then it just starts. Like something got hot.
Can you guys point me in a specific direction on what ,might be the problem with this car? I won't be able to respond probably until tomorrow evening, so I hope this is enough info for now.
By the way there is no service light or hard starting, it just doesn't turn over sometimes.
Peace.


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Lalo's 95 Mystic TA
"It will never be fast enough."

 

easy fix just get a starter blanked and put around it the bindix is getting too hot you can get the shield from summit part no. THE-14150 $22.25 should fix his problem

 

I am sorry, what is a "bindix"?

I will go to the Summit site and check it out, Thank you.


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Lalo's 95 Mystic TA
"It will never be fast enough."

 

Also check the starter wires if there hot they will have a bad connection or could be burnt.

 

I wires are okay, and I were are going to make him a heat shield just like the one Summit has. Thank You for the help guys.



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Lalo's 95 Mystic TA
"It will never be fast enough."

 

Just an idea- I had a similar problem- car wouldn't start until cold.

Magnet in the distributor was cracked- when it heated up it would seperate but when it cold down it would contract.

 

Wow, I would never have checked that!
Thank You, we are going to see if the heat shield solves the problem first, then we will try to take a look at that. Peace.


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Lalo's 95 Mystic TA
"It will never be fast enough."

 

I have had a bad problem with another car doing that. It turned out to be the cable to the starter. It has continuity so when you ohm it, it is close to zero. Unfortuantely when the car cranks, it takes a lot of juice and the cable was not up to it. The proper way is to do a current draw test with a VAT40 which will determine if the cable is good or not. That or you could just replace it and see. They are pretty cheap. Even if it is broken and has one strand left, it will still register with 0 ohms of resistance and you may think it is good but it is marginal when you have a high draw situation. Just a thought.

 

I will double check each wire just to make sure and thank you for the info.
Peace, Lalo