Last month I had this same problem but had set codes for ESC, EGR, and o2 Rich. So I replaced my knock sensor and wiring harness, and had to replace the EGR because it was stuck. I also replaced the EGR wiring harness because the wires were showing through. I was overdue for an o2 sensor anyway and replaced that as well. This fixed the problem until last week.

Now it will not start unless you put your foot on the gas and if you release it the engine just cuts out (under 1.5k rpm). I replaced the IAC earlier this year but have still been dealing with rough idle issues.

Ever since the first problem I would get the Engine light intermittently and the engine would run retarded until the light went off (random, 30s up to when the car was shut off).

Is there anything else to check before replacing the ESC Module? Is there anything else that may be wrong?

My coil failed last march so it is less then a year old. Cap, Rotor, Wires, Plugs are all less then 2 months old.

Thanks for the help!

 

Could the tps be to blame?

 

Not sure... is there an easy way to test it with a multimeter? Or is replacing it the easiest way?

 

i had the same problem a week ago with my bosses ford truck we changed the temp sensor runs tops if the sensor is not working it will tell your computer to give the car more gas depending on the temp out side it can go the opposite way good luck

 

Check for vacume leaks, My 2.8 did the same thing after I accedentaly pulled the hose that runs to pvc off the manifold when replacing something else, You might have done something similar

 

Thanks for the help guys... Ended up being the IAC valve had gone out again, even though it would still move in and out properly? Wierd Stuff. Code hasn't set all night so everything appears to be fixed!

Thanks again!