Does anyone know if it fits??? Any rubbing??

Thanks

Nick

 

Yes they will fit front and rear (with the proper offset). I currently run 1996 Corvette 17x9.5 ZR1 rims (88-96 Vette 50mm offset) and ROH rims of same offset on 2.5" aluminum spacers. The front and rear clear 275/40/17 tires, but may have slight rub depending on ride height and suspension. I think 2.25" spacers would be optimal. The rear may need to have the fenders rolled depending on ride height and shock stiffness. I would recommend using jounce bump stop adaptors (available from Summit) to limit shock travel.

A good resource for wheel dimensions and offsets is at the following link:

http://www.skulte.com/adapterfaq.html

1LECamaro
1991 Red 1LE Camaro Z28
350 L98 w/ LT4 Hotcam, 1.6 rockers, comp cam H.P. lifters, 2 7/8 headers, Aluminum heads, Holley Stealthram, 24lb. injectors, Mallory ignition, custom chip, 1LE spec T5 transmission, 900lb/250lb. race springs, 36mm/25mm bars, Koni SA shocks, Chromoly adj. panhard, Chromoly tubular LCAs, airfoil, AC delete, underdrive pulleys, Autopower Cage, Corbeau seats, 125shot nitrous, Hoosier 315/35/17 and 295/35/17 A6 tires on Chrome ZR1 rims, Chromoly axles, T2R diff, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, etc., etc.
(now with custom shortened oil pan installed )(see earlier post)Note - latest mod did not improve E.T., but did dramatically decrease gas usage - lol

 

17 x 9.5's on all four corners here, ever since 2001. The only problem I had was interference with the steering knuckle which was corrected by going to a 1LE rotor. The 1LE rotor gives you about a quarter-inch more track width on each side. The unfortunate side-effect is that you then have to convert to 1LE brakes in the front, if you want to call it that If you dont want to convert in order to be spacer-free, just order a .125 inch spacer for each side and it'll take care of the problem for you. I think Andris could get them for you, and if not, you can always order them from Group A wheels. It only takes up three threads on the stud so I dont think you even need to worry about stud length.

ROH ZS wheels, courtesy Andris Skulte's website. http://www.skulte.com

There's a picture of my car on there, in the customer rides section. Or, you can click on my SIG to get some views if you wish.

 

i even ran a 275/35/18 on a 9.5" vette wheel with a bilstein hd front modified strut to accept a 3" od eibach 200lb coilover spring.


english i took up more room with the coilover front strut setup and was still able to run the setup.


HOWEVER, they didn't quite fit under the fender wells and the car couldn't be any lower then a eibach pro-kit drop or 1.5" from factory ride height or it would rub on the fender during hard turning.

would i recommend that width on the front for a thirdgen... never but everyone has their own issues. 9" is about as wide as i'd ever put but i stick to 8" on the front.

as far as the backs that's different. 10.5 or a 295 with respecting profile is about the best wide tire you want on the rear. wider and you will need heavy modification. to fit this rim and tire setup though you will need a very accurate measure of your backspacing for your rim and you'll also need to remove your rear bumpstops. this is of course if you want it to look factory and fit inside the wheel well.

another thing of insight i'll add... not sure what rim you want to run, not all rims are different. hopefully you know that but just in case you don't every rim has their own unique offset/backspacing. if you plan to run a 9.5" rim and it wasn't built specifically to your cars specifications chances are you'll need to run an adapter. now many people do this and have done it for years, i myself included but i'm highly against them. i've had issues with studs backing out or plain snapping on the most expensive adapters anyone should by. constant maintance is also required which while very easy to do can be annoying over time so my advice is to make sure you get a rim that bolts up correctly without spacers. again, this is my opinion though and just trying to save you some headaches.

good luck.

 

I've been running my adapters for over 5 years, with zero maintenance. I put them on, torqued them, and forgot about them. Secondly, 2 months ago I managed to hit some ice and slid into a curb at 45mph. I bent AND STRETCHED the lower ball joint, moved the K-member, and destroyed the wheel. Adapter was completely unaffected. Stud quality has nothing to do with the quality of the adapter...

 

I've been running 9.5" wheels for 6 years with no issues. Like everyone above mentioned, offset and backspacing is important to get the proper clearance, especially on the front so that the wheel doesn't rub when you turn a lot, like when parking.

The perfect wheels that require no adapters are the Ronal R-15's. these are 17x9.5 and came on the 91/92 Firehawks and have a nice 3" dish.

My friends 82 Trans Am with them,

 

you think so? we aren't talking about adapters cracking in half when you hit a curb. the adapter itself is a solid piece of metal, i've never heard of an actual adapter cracking but studs back out all the time and it's dangerous. many people go on never witnessing this because their cars aren't daily drivers. if yours works for you great.

many people road race on them to make things work the way they do, what's the point? what you do is your priority and with every bad case there is usually an equal good case. having worked at a tire store and seeing many cars with issues i still listened to people here years ago when i was interested in trying it. i regret it and that's my point.

 

thought your car has been on jackstands the last 6 years? that must be another zepher on thirdgen.

 

"Issues"? Are you specifically referring to adapters? I've put nearly 100K miles on mine. Could you post a link showing a failed adapter? (any car make/model, any board, post, site, etc) Again, lumping a failed stud with a failed adapter is poor logic.

 

I had 3 3rd gens, the 86 that was sitting for a few years doing the LT1/T56 swap (ended up selling her for $5K to a friend a couple of years ago)
, my 88 Formula (Daily driver), and my 90 Formula (parts car).

this is my 88 Formula daily driver,

 

is it? lets see a stud is what holds your wheel to the adapter... seems pretty logical to me.

lol.. believe what you want. if your that daring more power to it, glad i'm not a passenger in your car.

 

Well then by that reasoning what aren't you talking about how unsafe ALL rear axles are, how unsafe ALL front hubs are, and how unsafe our front rotors are? Because hey... they have identical studs too!

 

I wish I didn't have to use adapters but I do for the wheels I run. Only in the front though. I went to a 4th gen rear so I don't need them for the back.

I have had zero problems with my adapters. I've had them on for years and drive my car 95% of the time. That means usually 7 days a week. That's on ****ty roads too so they take a lot of banging/vibrations.

To answer the poster's question: yes. 9.5" wheels fit-front and rear. I ran 9.5 on the front of mine but backed down to 8.5. Rubbing is an issue for me as my car is lowered quite a bit.

The back however fits with no rubbing. I had to clearance my fender wells and roll the fender lip so it wouldn't cut the tires. Again, my car is lowered so others may be able to run wider than the 275s I run.