Mike94ZLT1

Hey guys, I have a buddy with a low mile (66K) 88 GTA with an L98 and a 700R4. The car has been in his family since new, and it has a lot of sentimental value to him. It has been sitting for 5 or 6 years now in his garage, and we are trying to get it to start. It has a full tank of gas, which I intend on draining by pulling the fuel filter and using the pump to push out most of the old fuel.

I am trying to get the car to crank over, without much luck. We replaced the starter in it, and put a new battery in it. When we put the key in, it makes a clicking noise under the hood, but it is NOT the solenoid. The car had some type of dealer installed security device, the one with the keypad on the center console. I removed as much of it as I could, as my friends father started removing it prior to us getting his hands on it. Unfortunately his father has not been in the best of health, and cannot remember what he did, or even what he was attempting to do.

Anyways, what would you guys suggest to get this thing to turn over?

Also, the starter was removed 3 years ago by my friend, and I just put it back in the other day. I am pretty sure I got all the wires to the right spot, but not 100%. Is there any chance someone could post a pic or something showing me where all the wires go? I am an LS1 guy, I haven't touched a Gen 1 smallblock since I had my old IROC 10 years ago, and I've gotten a bit fuzzy. Thanks!

cnorton

I'd follow these steps at this point:

Pull all eight spark plugs, put a socket w/breaker bar on the bolt that secures the harmonic dampner. See if you can roll the motor over by hand before you spend more money on starters and batteries. If it turns over by hand, the starter should roll it as well.

Be sure to follow through with the plan to get ALL of the old gasoline out of the tank and lines.

At that point, it's a matter of physics. If gasoline and air are present in the cylinder it should explode when a spark is introduced. Make sure that you have all three elements and that they are in the correct timing sequence. If you have no fuel present, check to make sure the injectors are not gummed up, filter is not clogged, fuel pump is working, etc. If you have no spark, perform routine diagnostics on the distributor, plugs, and wires. Don't forget to check the ignition module. If you have a spark, check with a timing light to make sure that it is getting to the cylinder at the right time. If you have gasoline and spark in the cylinder and the correct timing, check to make sure the mice haven't built a nest in the plenum or in the air intake tract. I'm sure you get the picture.

Good luck,

c

cause4panic

If there was an alarm installed there is most certainly a relay that is normally open disconnecting either fuel/spark/starter signal. Have to remove the relay and connect the two leads togethar.

cnorton

That's absolutely correct. The fact that he was getting an audible "click" gave me reason to believe that power was at least reaching the starter solenoid. If the relay produces an audible click, that could well be the problem area. I'd still want to know if the short block isn't seized from sitting for all those years.

c

Z28SORR

Would also recommend you squirt oil into all 8 cylinders before trying to turn over the engine, let it soak in.
Get a remote starter switch. Just two wires with a switch attached it. It connects to the starter Bat. Cable and Start Ignition wire on the starter solenoid. This will bypass any anit-theft that would cut power to the starter. If the anti-theft device disables igintion or fuel it still wont start but if it's NOT frozen it will turn over.

Z28SORR

Did you read the post??

quickchicken

i would also replace the injectors. a set of 24's will work being i havent seen a good source for 22's. the injectors of that time werent that great and by this much time i would highly think they had varnished shut.

Mike94ZLT1

It's not the solenoid guys, I know what those sound like. It isn't even clicking in that area. The car was ran 3 years ago, I just found out, but it was not driven. I doubt it is seized. As far as a relay goes, I removed EVERYTHING from the code alarm system I could find, and any wires that were cut on the factory harness to have something else spliced in I reconnected.

By chance could someone please tell me where the 4 wires on the starter go? The big one with the tab is obvious, but then there are 3 more.

Thank you for your input so far!

Z28SORR

The one attached to the small lug next to the large Bat. lug is the ignition switch wire. When you turn the ignition(key) to start this wire becomes "hot" and activates the starter soleniod. This is the circuit that is "interupted" by the alarm. The other two off the Bat. lug are obviously hot leads, but I'd have to look up where they go.

Mike94ZLT1

Thank you, I will try to connect everything the way you described. I think I have everything connected correctly, and I think that clicking I hear is the alarm interrupting the circuit.

chevynutman

i would check to make sure the small wires on the starter are put on the correct terminal also check ground cable to engine for good contact don't worry about the motor chances of it seizing from sitting there is slim when i bought my 85 iroc with 33000 miles it was sitting for 14 years without moving i had to replace the whole fuel system and battery but that was it

ws6transam

You have the big wire from the battery. The remaining three wires are fusible links and all three attach to the same lug on the starter. They are normally routed through a four inch steel tube that protects them from exhaust manifold heat. That tube is typically attached at two points, one at the starter and the other on the top left side of the transmission bellhousing.

There is a chance those fusible links are blown. They can AND DO go bad as early as seven years. At least on my car they did. Age seven and age fourteen. Now the car is 25 years old and I relocated the links to a power bus on the body subframe. Those fusible links are the sole reason in all these years that I've ever required a tow for my Trans Am. When they went, I lost all power.