Ok, so today we started the swap. Everything out except K-member and tranny/bellhousing/clutch. Problems:

The Starter: I never read anything about needing a 4th gen starter. Will the stock T5 one work? It doesn't appear so. The 4th gen bellhousing seems to have an exhaust-like flange holding it on while the T5 one bolts directly to the bellhousing. What's the deal?

Check out my site: www.cardomain.com/id/sixspeedinstall

-Rippin

 

I used my stock starter without a problem. As far as the bellhousing...I didnt have any issues with that.

 

I run a gear reduction mini starter so I don't know from experience, but I hear you can use a stock starter if you leave out/trim the flywheel cover plate.

 

Ok, I screwed up I was holding the bellhousing the wrong way--it was late. Thanks though!

-Rippin

 

rofl dont you just want to kick yourself after some of the stupid stuff ya do let us know how it all ends up!

 

I dont think you do for a t-5 but i had a 700r4 and went to t-56 j as you probablt remember...I just had to take the grinder to the bellhouseing for about 15 mins and presto it fit!!! everyone one kept telling me ohh no its impossible you cant to it you have to get a new starter loks like i didnt...... so if anything dont buy a new starter just grind a lil

 

Ok, the 6-speed is in! And working may I add! I gotta give a shout out to TheGreatJ, man couldn't have done it without you! I now have 2 problems:

#1: The piece where the rod for the clutch pedal (coming out the clutch cylinder) goes into the pedal, that little plastic piece keeps popping off and therefore the pedal doesn't work so I can't really drive the car yet.

#2 (Biggest Problem)
The clutch doesn't grab until WAY up top. Like the first 5/6 of the pedal is useless. Then it grabs. New clutch disc, used P/P and flywheel. Any suggestions? Hopefully just something I can adjust. Thanks!

-Rippin

 

I have the same prob with that little plastic piece on the clutch linkage for the pedal. Havent figured it out yet but i did rig something temporarily....anyone? fixed this??

 

I had to replace the plastic bushing that goes in the end of the rod because the rod kept popping off the stud. You have to use a 3rd gen bushing (the 4th gen one has a slightly larger I.D.) and when you put it on, you have to put it in the rod first then clip the rod onto the stud.

My brand new Spec 3 caught way up high too. Still does, in fact. It seems like this is an issue with the pull-type clutch because I hear a lot of comments about it from people who have done this swap. You just have to get used to it, or buy an aftermarket adjustable hydro setup. The stock hydros don't provide any adjustment of pedal height or travel.




Thanks for the props Rippin....glad it went fairly smoothly.

 

I got the pedal fixed so now that's all good. About the clutch: that all makes sense and glad to hear someone else has the problem. Ok, new problems:

#1. I'm using the Spohn Crossmember. I went into work today and went over the speedbump. Nothing gargantuan, just a normal size speedbump and KEERRRRR. It scraped like crazy! When leaving I went on an angle and it didn't do it. Think that'll work for all of them. I don't want to go into school and scrape on every one (there's like 4 of them).

#2. I'm getting an SES light. I don't how the tranny, which isn't electronically controlled, would trigger and SES light. It happened today coming home. I haven't driven the car since Wednesday. Thanks!

-Rippin

NOTE: Does anyone know if at Advance Auto/AutoZone/NAPA/etc I can get them to check my codes for free?

 

Congrats on the T56. Here's some info relative to my setup (probably not a lot of help, but here goes):

My McLeod single disc HD clutch seems to grab just fine to me.... It starts engaging at about 1/4 travel.

I used 4th gen pedals and haven't had any problems with the clutch pedal linkage.

Regarding DTCs: Just short the A and B terminals on the ALDL and read the code yourself. Watch the SES light and count how many times it flashes. It will give you a series of two digit codes. Ignore the code 12 as that just means the ECM is alive and kicking. Record the other one(s) it gives you and go from there.

You may be getting a VSS error of some sort. I don't know for sure as using the SGI-5 might resolve the signal clean enough to pass muster with the TPI ECM, but I disabled the VSS diagnostic routine in the PROM on my car, so.....

 

It's most likely a "no VSS signal" code, or a gear selector switch error (not sure if the 3rd gen ECM checks it or not.) If it's a VSS issue then hooking up the SGI-5 and clearing the codes should take care of it.

I don't have one so I don't know from experience, but I've heard the SGI-5 can be a little glitchy at times, especially if the signal wiring isn't shielded. You may want to go with some shielded speaker wire or something similar for the VSS wiring to keep it from throwing codes for no apparent reason.